Mini Washer for Workout Clothes

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This one bothered me for a while... No more.

@medanilevin on IG

Morning run is the best way to start your day!

Return home before anyone wakes up.

Happy, energized, dripping with sweat and ready to storm your day!

There's one obstacle though - the pile of the smelly-biological weapon grade-soaked running clothes.

What do you do with it?

I used to put it in the laundry basket and wait for the basket to fill up before running a load.

It was disgusting.

The smell permeated through the laundry and made it "inconvenient" in the small apartment.

And it's no good for you and your clothes.

Following is my solution for this, I hope you like it and build your own.

This instructable is a result of ~month of work which is summarized here:

https://dosimplecarbon.com/dosimplecarbon-small-wa...

https://dosimplecarbon.com/dosimplecarbon-small-wa...

https://dosimplecarbon.com/you-can-almost-wash-you...

https://dosimplecarbon.com/from-spilled-water-to-f...

Step 1: Doodling and Modeling the Idea

The idea was to have a small tank with water and detergent that will tumble the clothes in it.

So I started doodling. It works for me, try it for yourself!

What would be the features of the newly created solution?

What are the details which are important to you?

This was not an exception, and all started here.

The CAD modeling which followed was simply a step towards making the doodles a reality.

Step 2: What You Will Need?

First, print the models - Thing: 3216671

Two pieces of each: upper_base.stl and main_base.stl.

All the other pieces are one of each.

1. Plywood base or other scrap wood that you might have.

2. Magnets x 8: ebay (handle with care, these are strong)

3. Skate bearings x 4: banggood, ebay

4. 8mm dia. rod. I used carbon fiber tube I had lying around, but any 8mm diameter rod will do

5. Geared 12v motor 1:300 reduction, or something around this. banggood, ebay

6. DC-DC voltage step down: banggood, ebay

7. 10k potentiometer: banggood, ebay

8. On-off switch: banggood, ebay

9. Home Depot 2gal bucket+lid

10. Old laptop power supply 12-19v, this or this will be great (if you don't have one around).

11. 1/4"x3/4" bolts x 4.

12. Wood screws and several pieces of wire.

_________________________________________

Basic tools: screwdrivers, saw (for the wood base).

Hot glue gun + hot glue

CA glue

Soldering iron

Step 3: Assemble the Upper Base

Once you have printed the two pieces of upper base, you can stack them together (it is actually the same exact pieceX2).

Insert the bearings, you might need to push a little to make them go in.

Use your 8mm rod and slide it through the two pieces (see picture) this will align the two units so the base will rotate freely in the future.

Determine the width of the base according to the bucket that you have.

For the 2gal. bucket that I recommend they should be almost touching one another.

Use CA glue or hot glue and glue the pieces together. Make sure the rod is rotating freely all through the process.

Clamp and make sure the glue cures.

Step 4: Add the Main Bases

Now it's time to complete the lower base.

Print the parts.

Push in the bearings, as before you might need to push a little bit for them to go through.

Slide through the 8mm rod in the main bases and the previously assembled upper base.

Take your wooden base and using wood screws attach one base side.

Make sure there is a 2-5mm gap from each side and attach the second base to the wooden base.

Now you should have a rotating frame with a see-saw motion.

Step 5: Add the Magnets and Make It Move

This is the step when you will be cursing me a lot :)

Sorry, I did the same with mine (the cursing stuff)

Take you pile of magnets (8 total) and mark the same pole on all of them.

For example - the upper facing side.

This is important, make sure the marks are clearly visible and permanent.

Take the upper frame out (by sliding out the 8mm rod) and put it at a safe distance from the wooden base.

ONE by ONE glue in the magnets in the designated spots (the little squares in the printed parts)

Use CA and hot glue to secure them. Make sure the glue cures for each before adding another.

Glue them in such a way as to always see the marking you did.

The idea is: when everything is glued and assembled the same poles should face each other.

CAREFULLY - return the upper base to the wooden base and slide in the rod.

This is the outcome that you should get at this stage:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoPMTgtHP7f/

These magnets are strong! and will easily jump around towards their buddy.

This is the reason to one-by-one action.

Step 6: A Few Words About the Bucket

I started with low rectangular box instead of the final 2gal bucket.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoxD1d9nLLJ/

It was a mistake - it's not tall enough and spills the water all around (the pictures capture this).

Learn from my mistakes and use the bucket.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpwhubTHBJ9/

Step 7: Attach the Bucket and the Motor

The bucket is secured to the upper base with hot glue.

I was concerned at first, but now I can tell you it's fine, holds perfectly well with no snapping off.

Print the: motor_base and motor_clamp files.

Secure the motor base under the upper frame so that the exit shaft will align with the edge of the frame

The motor clamp piece is held by 4 1/4" bolts that go into the base.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BoxD1d9nLLJ/

Step 8: Connect the Mechanics

Glue the link_clip to the upper base

Slide in the motor_wheel into the shaft.

Connect between them with the printed link.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpPi4SoHzI5/

Step 9: Finish With Electronics

We have everything in place.

Now it's time to power it up.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BpXY-HFH-QG/


Print the electronics_box and make sure you can attach it to one of the main bases.

We'll modify the voltage step down unit a little bit.

Take the unit and solder out the blue potentiometer box.

Take you bigger 10k potentiometer and solder it in to the same 3 spots with some spare wire.

Now the final assembly:

Route the cord from your power supply to the "in" leads of the voltage regulator (through a switch)

Connect the "out" tabs to the motor leads.

Make sure everything works.

Close the box.

Your washer is ready!

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp2BjB8HU4R/

Step 10: Epilogue

My morning routine changed a little bit with this unit completed.

After the shower, I take ~10 min to wash the clothes and hang them out to dry.

The wash is gentle and removes the odors perfectly well.

Because the clothes are isolated from the full washer, I can experiment with all kinds of smell removers.

The vinegar works btw!

I hope you enjoyed this.

I wish you happy running and clean clothes,

Dani

Follow me on IG: @medanilevin

And subscribe to our mailing list on dosimplecarbon.com

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    22 Discussions

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    MaurilioC

    21 days ago

    Hello. Could you tell me the measurements?
    a) distance between the magnets (on the sides and length);
    b) height of the center of the bearing of the fixed base;
    c) internal width between bearings (bottom / fixed base);
    d) internal width between the bearings (upper part / movable base);
    e) distance between the magnets (lower and upper);
    f) diameter of the "turntable" of the shuttle and the distance from the center of the motor shaft and the bolt of the arm that moves the base of the bucket;
    g) distance between the center of the motor shaft and the wooden base.
    Reason: I could not get any information in the stl files. I only had visualization and printing. My 3D printer is still at the beginning of the assembly, and I would like to build your machine in wood. I already bought the bearings, magnets, motor, source, step-down, I already have the 8mm shaft and the wooden base (solid board, the approximate size of your machine).
    PS: I had built a washing machine, but rotating, in wood, but it did not work because of the weight of the water and the clothes (intimate = briefs, etc). Commercial fruit juicer engine with two reductions based on belts and pulleys. It worked for a while, but I gave it up because it made a lot of noise and it shook a lot. The canister was a closed gallon, which opened a hole and made a sealed cap. the vessel lay inside a wooden railing, which turned by a crank or engine. I have photos and videos.

    3 replies
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    medanilevinMaurilioC

    Reply 20 days ago

    Hey
    I'm really humbled that you want to make my design, thank you.

    Do you have an access to Fusion360?
    I can send you the models, it will be much easier to measure whatever you wish.
    Also, if you ready to pay for shipping, I can print you the models.

    Let me know,
    Dani

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    MaurilioCmedanilevin

    Reply 16 days ago

    No. I do not have the fusion.
    I'm already riding on wood. I already received the magnets (not the same as yours, but very powerful.) They are in disk format, instead of square. It was what I found here in Brazil and at a good price.
    I already bought the engine and I already received it (I found it a little weak, but I will test anyway. The most annoying is the distance of the engine / base control and how much does the circle of vai / vem.
    I will see if I can print the models here in Brazil itself. It's faster for me, is not it? Just to see the measures and proportions.

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    Uncle Kudzu

    22 days ago

    Interesting! Could your design morph easily into a human-powered machine?

    Thanks for sharing!

    6 replies
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    n4mwdmedanilevin

    Reply 22 days ago

    I think he means a version of your washing machine that runs by a hand crank or wind up spring or something like that.

    I remember seeing a movie once where an inventor had ropes with pulleys attached to the ceiling that he would pull down and a weight would go up. As the weight descended, it would power a washing machine or ceiling fan or whatever. Kind of like how a grandfather clock works. The movie was fiction, but many of the technical concepts were real.

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    Uncle Kudzun4mwd

    Reply 21 days ago

    Yeah, I was wondering if it could be, say, scaled up and run by a bicycle or some such.

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    medanilevinUncle Kudzu

    Reply 21 days ago

    This can be interesting, can't wait for your bigger version!

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    medanilevinn4mwd

    Reply 22 days ago

    Thank you for the clarification.
    This is something I intended to avoid with this project - spending time doing my stinky laundry. Now machine does the job and I simply throw them in.
    More self time in the morning

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    medanilevinUncle Kudzu

    Reply 22 days ago

    I guess you can build everything except the motor and electronics.
    That way you could just tilt it by hand.

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    wkparker

    22 days ago

    I like the design. Do you have to tip the entire thing over to empty the water? Seems like a removable bucket would make filling / rinsing a little easier.

    2 replies
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    medanilevinwkparker

    Reply 22 days ago

    I just lift it by the bucket and empty into the sink.
    But you are right.
    Easy way to do this is another same bucket that will just go into the connected one, they do fit tightly into each other.

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    amarti

    22 days ago

    I rinse them in the shower after working out or running. This is cooler obviously. You could also do it the way traditional kefir was made, put your clothes in a bag with soap and water and hang it by a door. When ever someone comes in our out the door bangs of the bag and mixes everything up.

    1 reply
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    lloyd1931

    Question 22 days ago on Step 10

    I must be missing something here. Why do we need the magnets? Doesn't the motor rocker agitate the clothes enough?

    2 more answers
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    Y-Geolloyd1931

    Answer 22 days ago

    Hi,
    because lke magnetic poles repel they act as suspension or damper so that the motor is assisted when all the water/clothers are on one side of the rocking motion

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    medanilevinlloyd1931

    Answer 22 days ago

    The magnets hold the heavy bucket in upright position, and giving it enough flex to tilt with the rocker.
    Without the magnets it will just tip on the side.