Designed to hold 4-6 cards and a small amount of cash. This is a very small and compact minimalist wallet.
I designed a wallet with intentions to sell it on Kickstarter and went through many versions on my 3D printer (14 in all) to come up with an optimal design. The files here aren't exact copy of my final version, since those are made from metal, but these do incorporate all the lessons learned and functionality.
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Step 1: What Do You Need
- Most importantly you will need to have a printer, have access to a printer or use an online 3D printing service.
- 3/32 O-ring cord stock
You can use just a regular 3/32 O-ring, which you can probably find at the hardware store or you can order some from McMaster Carr. The following are possible part numbers for McMaster Carr rubber
My preferred material is 9616K12
A softer option is 5229T49
A stiffer option is 1165N12
- diagonal cutters
- 5/64 drill bit (optional)
- a small file (optional)
- 4 to 6 credit cards and one to few bills, to fill your wallet
Step 2: 3D Printing
My preference is to use ABS platic over PLA because it has better mechanical properties.
You don't need extreme levels of precision, as I have been happy with all my versions using the middle tier of accuracy (.2mm according to my slicer). The wallet should fit is amost all printers as is it only slightly bigger than a credit card.
I prefer to use support because of the overhangs, and use solid fill for strength. The model is pretty striped down, so you won't save much by going with infill. At the bottom of this step are the files but you can also find them at Thigiverse:
Because of how layers work out, my printer can tend to run a little under nominal, so I have attached files for both a nominal and "oversized" version, where the width and depth have been bumped up by .020" on the oversized.
Here is a video of no real value, I just think it is cool.
Step 3: Prepping for Assembly
The ideal slot width for the cards is in the ball park of 2.140". If you don't have calipers, this should be a tight fit but still loose enough for the cards to fall out without the rubber installed.
So if you try the regular version and the cards can't fall out freely, give the "Oversized" file a shot.
After my wallets are done with printing I like to clean then up a little bit with a file. Remove any imperfections, round corners and square up any corners I want to be sharp. I will also clean up the hole for the rubber retainer, 5/64" (.078") drill bit works good for this but isn't always required. You don't want to go much bigger because we want the O-ring rubber to be a tight fit.
Next I prep the end of the rubber with the diagonal cutters so about .5-1.0" of it is a much smaller diameter than the hole. Nothing scientific here, just enough so it can feed through easily.
Step 4: Assembly
Now that everything is prepped I hand feed the rubber through the hole in the wallet. Once a little nubber is sticking out I grab it and pull the reaming length of rubber through the hole.
This should be pretty difficult and we want to rubber to get longer and thinner to squeeze through the hole. Once you have full diameter rubber sticking out both sides of the wallet, trim it down near the surface with your diagonal cutters. To help keep the remaining nubs as short as possible you can put a little tension on the rubber before cutting it.
Step 5: Loading and Useage
I tend to primarily use my credit cards for purchases and carry one $20 bill, for when the cards aren't an option.
So I start by loading the wallet from the back. Putting my least used card in first and pushing it all the way back against the money clip. I then load in the remaining cards and finally the cash. The rubber retainer that grips the cards in under the money clip, so if the wallet isn't 100% full you can pivot the cards down to make it easier to load cash and then pivot it back towards the money clip to give it a more secure grip.