Miter Saw Stand Stops




Introduction: Miter Saw Stand Stops

About: Was raised in my Dad's workshop in the 60's and 70's. Off and on woodworker. But now have the workshop I've always wanted. Love making things in the workshop. As my Dad would say, "Don't throw that away...

My miter stand stop made of scrap wood around the shop. I made this piece out of pine 3/4" X 10" and a scrap 2X4 longer than 8" . I was making deck furniture out of leftover decking and wanted something to help get all the legs cut the same length. I look at all the plans to make a miter stand, but that seem overboard for my need. Now if precision cutting is what you want, by all means the "Mac Daddy" stand may be your best plan (I like using "Mac Daddy", my dad who taught me woodworking at very young age, was named Mac).

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Step 1: Material

As you can see, this plan consist of only a screwdriver, drill, table saw, miter saw, glue, screws (I used Sheetrock screws), a length of 2 X 4, and 30" of 3/4 X 10" board. I plan to use hardwood on the improved version just for the durability. A jig saw, circular saw or band saw can be use to cut the wood in the needed dimensions.

Step 2: Getting the Measurements

First I removed the miter stand out-feed roller and measured the support. Width of the roller assembly and the length of the support. I also measured the out-feed slide where the roller support goes into. Now we have the measurements to make our support snug but not too tight. I ripped the 2X4 to 1.25" X 1.25" for the stop support and it fit perfectly into the support guide. Next I cut the the support to 8 inches (same as the factory roller support).

Next I cut the board into 10" lengths (2). I got the length by measuring the roller on the support that came with the miter stand. One will be used for the base of the stop and the other I ripped in half and it will be the vertical stop attached to the base. Now we are ready for assembly.

Step 3:

I took the narrow stop board and formed an "L" or 90 degree and marked the base so I would know where to pre-drill for the screws. I drilled 4 holes in the base and used a countersink for the screws. I applied a film amount of glue at the joint area and clamped the stop board flush with the bench, aligned the boards and screwed them together.

Step 4: Installing the Support

Next I installed the support that attaches to the miter stand. I turn the stop assembly over and traced the support in the center of the base(small board off the end of the bench with the base supported by the bench top).

Next I used a square to make sure my support and stop where square with each other. I drilled a center hole and two additional holes (countersink with small bit) inside the traced area. I then turned the stop with the base (wider board) stand up and the stop side (smaller width) flat on the bench. I took scrap pieces stacked to align the support level with the bottom line of the traced area on the underside of the base. Pre-drilled the center hole into the support and screwed the two together. I used flat scrap boards to align the support to the base, so after the center screw is in I pre-drilled the 2 remaining holes and screwed the support to the base. I checked for square and it was as the stacked boards under the support when installing the support provided a square reference.

Step 5: Final Check

now to check the final fit. The support adjusted low and high enough for any task and the stop can be turned 180 degrees for shorter cuts.

It was cheap and easy and only took about an hour to cut and assemble.

Before you start, Safety first..use all safety equipment and procedures.

Now go make some sawdust.

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    2 Discussions


    2 years ago

    It looks like the original rollers had a stop built in. Did you build this cause you needed more surface area than what the rollers provided?


    Reply 2 years ago

    Yes, also I needed something with more height than the roller support.