Modern Outdoor Chair

9,619

163

11

About: Discover woodworking, concrete, LEDs, home decor and DIY projects you'll love.

Intro: Modern Outdoor Chair

Add a Modern touch to your outdoor or indoor living space with this inviting and versatile chair. Many questions came in about the bulkiness of the wood, and why. Although though it adds a ton of weight this is the look I wanted. 2 by 4 lumber just couldn’t deliver this style. In most situation, you will want to use pressure treated wood. I knew I wouldn’t have the flexibility with the color choice if I went that route. With that in mind, I opted for Douglas Fir, I don’t plan to have direct contact with the natural element. Otherwise, I would highly recommend pressure treated wood. Although I used a traditional cherry stain, you can use whatever color will enhance your exterior aesthetic.

Plans:

For the material list and measurements get the free plans here>> DOWNLOAD

Tools Used:

Dust Mask http://rzmask.com?afmc=8i

7/8 Forstner Bit http://amzn.to/2phMRF7

Drill/ Driver http://amzn.to/2FI8DsD

Flush Cut Saw http://amzn.to/2tQ6V70

Miter Saw – http://amzn.to/2FAKtUW

Cutech Jointer- https://goo.gl/YQBQaU

Measuring tape – http://amzn.to/2pdvE0C

Table Saw http://amzn.to/2FKib6s

Bessey Clamps http://amzn.to/2HBkJV0

Jaw Horse http://amzn.to/2phdXgo

2 in 1 Jig Saw http://amzn.to/2GtSaJL

Multitool Oscillating tool http://amzn.to/2HCPLMf

Connect Here:

Website: Visit diycreators.com

Youtube: Subscribe for weekly Videos

Instagram: Follow for Daily Post

Step 1: Cutting the Lumber

I used a miter saw to cut the lumber to the desired lengths (see plans here). I then used a jointer to remove a few layers from the lumber to cut down on my time sanding later on.

Step 2: Making Joint Cuts

In order to facilitate the assembly process later, I made all the joint cuts first. I used a table saw to cut rabbets on both ends of 3 of the seat pieces. Although a table saw would be the fastest way to complete these cuts, you can achieve the same cut by using a reciprocating saw, circular saw or hand saw. After making your cuts, you want to test the pieces by dry fitting them into place.

Step 3: Assembling the Arms

To assemble the arms of the chair, you want to first start by laying the pieces of lumber as shown. Apply wood glue to each joint and use the glue applicator to ensure an even layer. By using the wood glue, you are preventing future squeaks and added strength. Use clamps or ratchet straps to hold pieces together while the glue dries. Next, you will prep your joints for the lag screws. You will start by using a 7/8 bit to drill a 1.5 in. deep hole at the center of each joint. Then, use a small bit to drill in the center of each hole and into the lumber behind it. Finally, drive the lag screw from one lumber into the next. Repeat these steps for the other arm.

Step 4: Assembling the Body of the Chair

Set up the arms next to each other so you can attach the back and the bottom of the chair. I used some scrap pieces of wood to make sure the seat would be the same height in the front and the back. Use wood glue and clamp the structure together. Then, use the same scrap pieces of wood as a guide for the front of the chair. Next, attach the arms to the back of the chair using the same lag screw method from Step 3. Use the same technique for the remaining joints.

Note: The holes used for the lag screw should be off center a little so it doesn’t intersect with the previous screw.

Step 5: Plugging the Holes

To conceal the screws, I used the 7/8 dowel to plug the holes. I brushed some wood glue onto the dowels and used a rubber mallet to hammer them in. This should be a tight fit. Then, I wiped away any excess glue from around the dowel and used a flush cut saw to cut down the dowels.

Step 6: Assembling the Seat

I started to assemble the seat by first adding the 2 outer ends of the seat, as shown in the picture. Then, glue the support piece under the bottom of the chair and screw it into place. Next, use scrap pieces of wood to keep a consistent distance between the remaining seat pieces. Glue and clamp. After that, I turned my attention to the bottom of the chair. I secured the lumber using 2 screws per board. Now it was time to remove the outer ends of the seat and apply glue to them so they can be reattached, clamped, and secured with screws.

Step 7: Sanding and Applying the Finish

I sanded the chair, then applied some wood conditioner that would help reduce any splotches. After the wood conditioner dried, I stained the chair using a traditional cherry stain. Finally, add a couple of layers of polyurethane to ensure durability.

Step 8: Glamour Shots

Here are some photos of the finished product. I love this look and i’ve already started designing the matching sofa. If you like to build your own I have a free set of plans here . I’d love to hear what you think about this build. Also if you are new here, be sure to subscribe for future posts and updates.

If you enjoyed this post, Vote for this project in the furniture contest. Also, stop by my channels if you get the chance.

Youtube: Subscribe for weekly Videos

Instagram: Follow for Daily Post

Website: diycreators.com

Furniture Contest 2018

This is an entry in the
Furniture Contest 2018

Share

    Recommendations

    • Fix It! Contest

      Fix It! Contest
    • Furniture Contest 2018

      Furniture Contest 2018
    • Tiny Home Contest

      Tiny Home Contest

    11 Discussions

    0
    None
    JettaKnight

    8 hours ago

    Looks great!

    I should get some white sheets for my garage next time I make an instructable.

    1
    None
    Tendogs

    4 days ago

    Good job sir, it looks good and I wish you many years of use out of it, small girl very cute. Just one comment which is not confined to this job but which I have seen on many instructables, that is screwing into end grain. My woodwork teacher, a difficult man with three fingers missing from one hand, would have a fit. I’ve never done it, does it work?

    1 reply
    0
    None
    PhilK39Tendogs

    Reply 2 days ago

    I'd also be concerned with screwing into end grain, maybe a half lap or similar would suit better.

    0
    None
    JasonR236

    2 days ago on Step 8

    Very cool!! I would have used some tenons though instaed of butt joints but i love the clean design, well done.

    0
    None
    SylvanB

    4 days ago

    Like the 4x4 chunky style.

    I'm considering a few minor changes...

    * 2x4 for the seat platform -- look nearly the same, but lighter, cheaper and easier

    * Arm on top of the verticals -- stronger, higher, easier to extend

    * Back on top of arm on top of verticals -- higher, maybe stronger

    * Either add a block (or hockey puck) under the four corners as a foot, or raise the bottom rail an inch or so, maybe both -- sit better on imperfect surfaces, less moisture pickup

    (And I like HeadLOK screws instead of lags)

    1
    None
    carlos66ba

    7 days ago

    Very beautiful. May try some day. Is it solid enough being butt jointed? Why didn't you do some jointery?

    0
    None
    gm280

    7 days ago

    Nice project. The only thing I would suggest is when you glue outside furniture, always use a waterproof glue. TiteBond III is such a glue and is available everywhere they sell wood glues. TitBond and TiteBond II are not waterproof. Thumbs Up!

    0
    None
    jpmarth

    7 days ago

    I’m with you on the look of the 4x4! What total length is needed for one chair? I followed your link, but it only says “5” in the material list.