Bluetooth 2.1 Home Made Hi-fi System

About: Passionnate in electronic for a long time.....

ALL THE PICTURES OF EACH STEP WILL COME SOON!

My sister said: "For 2 years now, I am listening every day music with your amplifier". A friend told me: "I am hearing instruments I've never heard sounding like that and so rich". My boss bought me one and a group of friends have a local where the Musical Amplifier is often playing music and so on. Since 2016, the "Musical Amplifier" has now reached a point where every youthful bug is solved and lots of details improved. You have already built a Wellmann kit in your life and you would like now to build a "monster of energy" which can be a very good friend in the future ?

All through my story, at every step, I will give you some text, useful links, pictures, electronic schematics, mechanical plans, printscreens and source code, a list of needed tools ‒ and eventually where to buy them ‒, a list of needed components ‒ and eventually where to buy them ‒, and a list of all free needed files to build each step.

Here below are some parameters of the Musical Amplifier:

  1. 2.1 configuration = 3 audio channels = High Left + High Right + Subwoofer.
  2. 375 [WRMS] = total output music power provided by a 500 [VA] toroidal transformer = class AB specifications
  3. 220 [WRMS] = maximum output music power per channel at 4 [Ohms]!
  4. 120'000 [uF] total main capacity with capacitors certified for audio.
  5. 9 relays, 13 green leds, 4 power supplies and 1 Microchip PIC18F46K22 microcontroller clocked at 64 [MHz] inside.
  6. Sequential startup and stop to avoid the "boom" in the speakers and the stress of the electronic components when starting and stopping the amplifier.
  7. Logitech audio bluetooth module.
  8. DBX professionnal stereo crossover.

Step 1: Some Free Schematics

If you are in the electronic field, you can now understand how the Musical Amplifier is working.

Attached files:

1. The whole electronic schematics of the Musical Amplifier / PDF file

2. The electrical schematic of the GND and EARTH circuit of the whole audio system / PDF file

Step 2: Build the Subwoofer

This step is not so easy because you need a professional paint station, that's why a professional carpentry workshop prepares the subwoofer wooden box for me.

You need to build 1 part.

This Kenwood KFCW112S subwoofer can provide 200 [WRMS] music power and 800 [W] max. power peaks between 28 and 800 [Hz].

Needed tools:

1. Circular saw

2. Surface router

3. Biscuit joiner

4. Glue for wood

5. Clamps

6. Drill

7. Professional paint station

8. Minimum 80 [W] soldering station for small electronics

9. ROHS welding wire

10. Two-component Araldite glue

11. Electric screwdriver

Needed components:

1. 5 [m] of 2x 6 [mm2] Sommer Cable 460-0056 for speakers

2. 1x KFCW112S 200 [WRMS] subwoofer

3. Black MDF board 19 [mm] thickness

4. Cardboard tube 78 [mm] diameter for the acoustic port

Attached files:

1. The mechanical plans of the subwoofer box / PDF file

Way forward like on the attached pictures:

1. With the circular saw, cut the black MDF board into the 6 sides of the box according to the mechanical plans.

2. With the surface router, make 2 circular openings on the front face according to the mechanical plans.

3. Use the biscuit joiner "in the best way".

4. Put the glue for wood "in the best way".

5. Assemble all 6 sides together, use clamps to hold them together, and wait 1 day until the glue has hardened.

6. Once the glue is dry, remove the clamps, sand and varnish the subwoofer box.

7. Drill a hole of 12 [mm] behind the box and pass the cable of 10 [mm] diameter into it, from outside to inside. Put some Araldite inside the hole, between the wood and the cable, and wait 1 day until the glue has hardened.

8. Solder the cable on the speaker. The red wire go on the "+" of the speaker, the black wire go on the "‒" of the speaker.

9. Fix the speaker in the big hole on the front face with 6 screws.

Step 3: Build the MDF Wooden Box of the Musical Amplifier

> needed tools

> scie circulaire

> défonceuse

> lamello

> colle

> serre-joints

> perceuse

> station de peinture industrielle

> needed components

> panneau MDF noir 19mm => menuiserie

> les poignées + référence

> les inserts => Quinquaillerie du Léman

> le grillage en alu => jumbo

> needed files

> plan PDF /* à faire */

> Prendre plein de photos chez le menuisier....

> expliquer comment découpe panneau MDF

> expliquer comment ouvertures à la défonceuse

> expliquer comment lamelo

> expliquer collage + serre-joints

> expliquer laquage 3 couches

> montage poignées

> montage grillage alu

> perçage et montage des insters

Step 4: Build the Plywood Base Board

Even if this step is relatively easy, a professional carpentry workshop prepares the raw cut board for me, to be sure of the high precision of the cuts.

You need to build 1 part.

This plywood board is used to maintain the INTERFACE board vertical and to support the heavy loaded BASE board with all power supplies, 3x audio preamps and main microcontroller.

Needed tools:

1. Drill

2. Adapted screwdriver

Needed components:

1. Screw nuts for wood RAMPA BN239.1101633 Typ A M5x10/12 [mm]

2. 15 [mm] thick plywood board, smooth on one side and rough on the other / 436 x 163 [mm] already cut

Attached files:

1. The mechanical plans of the flat wooden base board inside the Amplifier / PDF file

Way forward like on the attached pictures:

1. With the drill, drill 14 holes in total: 10 holes on the main side and 4 holes on the front edge according to the mechanical plans.

2. About the 4 holes on the front edge, first drill ø 9 [mm] holes 15 [mm] length, then insert the RAMPA screw nuts for wood with an adapted screwdriver

Step 5: Build the Aluminum Parts of the Core Amplifiers

Even if this step is relatively easy, a professional mechanical workshop is building these aluminium parts for me.

You need to build 3 parts because the amplifier has 3 channels.

These parts are used to transport the heat from all 6 power transistors to the main heatsink.

Needed components:

1. 40 x 40 [mm] aluminium profile 1 [m] length

Attached files:

1. The mechanical plans of these aluminium parts / PDF file

Step 6: Mechanical Machining of the Big Aluminium Heatsink

Even if this step is relatively easy, a professional mechanical workshop is machining this aluminium heasink for me.

You need to build 1 part.

This main heatsink is used to dissipate heat from the 6 main power transistors, the diode bridge and the soft start resistor.

Needed components:

1. 300 x 200 x 40 [mm] 0.3 [°C/W] heatsink

Attached files:

1. The mechanical plans of the machining of the big aluminium heatsink / PDF file

2. 2x plans to show where to drill holes / JPG files

Step 7: Make Manufacture All 4 PCB Types

This step has to be done by a professional company specialized in PCB manufacture.

You can choose the color of every PCB, out of the "SOCLETRANSFO" which is only epoxy resin.

These electronic boards are absolutely fundamental in the identity of the device, it's the DNA of the Musical Amplifier!

Attached files:

1. BASE_PCB_V7.7.7.10.2 / ZIP file

2. INTERFACE_PCB_V7.7.7.2 / ZIP file

3. MAINAMP_PCB_V1.7.2 / ZIP file

4. SOCLETRANSFO_PCB_V1.2 / ZIP file

Execution:

>>> BASE V7.7.7.8.1 <<<

1. 1x PCB

2. 436 x 152 [mm]

3. 1.6 [mm] thickness

4. 4 copper layers

5. Blue top and bottom soldermasks

6. Gold finish

7. No top and no bottom silkscreen

>>> INTERFACE V7.7.7.2 <<<

1. 1x PCB

2. 482 x 216 [mm]

3. 1.6 [mm] thickness

4. 2 copper layers

5. Blue top and bottom soldermasks

6. Gold finish

7. No top and no bottom silkscreen

>>> MAINAMP V1.7.2 <<<

1. 3x PCB

2. 82 x 94.5 [mm]

3. 1.6 [mm] thickness

4. 2 copper layers

5. Blue top and bottom soldermasks

6. Gold finish

7. No top and no bottom silkscreen

>>> SOCLETRANSFO <<<

1. 1x PCB

2. 136 x 136 [mm]

3. 2.4 [mm] thickness

4. No copper layers

5. No soldermasks

6. No finish

7. No silkscreen

Step 8: Mount Some Components and Wires on the BASE Board

You can do this step by yourself if you've already soldered electronic components in your life. Small 0603 components and the main TQFP44 microcontroller are difficult to weld, you can give this task to a professional electronic workshop.

Please use a maximum iron tip temperature of 380 [°C] when you're soldering on the PCB boards. And it is necessary to weld as quickly as possible to avoid taking off the copper pads.

You will now mount entirely the 24 [VDC] and 5 [VDC] power supplies, the microcontroller area and the leds and relays circuits. Other power supplies are mount only partially, because you are preparing the board for the microcontroller's source code flashing.

Needed tools:

1. Minimum 80 [W] soldering station for small electronics

2. ROHS welding wire

3. Adapted screwdrivers and pliers

Needed components:

1. 1x virgin BASE board

2. 50 [cm] yellow-green flexible 1.5 [mm2] wire for EARTH line input

3. 50 [cm] brown flexible 1.5 [mm2] wire for PHASE line input

4. 50 [cm] light blue flexible 1.5 [mm2] wire for NEUTRAL line input

5. 1x 230 [VAC] male plug

6. 6x PVC spacer 51 length

7. 6x M5 nuts

8. 6x M5 toothed washer

9. All components regarding to the attached BOM file

Attached files:

1. The TOP component layout / PDF file

2. The BOTTOM component layout / PDF file

3. The TOP components to be soldered at this step / PNG file

4. The BOTTOM components to be soldered at this step / PNG file

5. The areas in the electronic schematics to be soldered at this step / PNG file

6. The BOM file with all components references, components descriptions and main component supplier / PDF file

Way forward like on the attached pictures:

1. Solder the TQFP44 microcontroller.

2. Solder all 0603 resistors and capacitors.

3. Solder all 0805 capacitors.

4. Solder all SOT-23-3 mosfet transistors.

5. Solder all DO214 SMA diodes.

6. Solder all leds.

7. Solder all relays ON THE BOTTOM side of the board.

8. Solder the 230 [VAC] AC fuse holder ON THE TOP side of the board and put the 2.5 [A] fuse inside.

9. Solder P4 24 [VDC] power supply ON THE BOTTOM side of the board.

10. Solder U1 DC/DC converter ON THE TOP side of the board.

11. Solder all DC fuse holders ON THE TOP side of the board and put the 1 [A] and 7.5 [A] fuses inside.

12. Solder all 2512 resistors.

13. Solder all electrolytic capacitors, some on the TOP and some on the BOTTOM of the board.

14. Solder the 3 wires of the 230 [VAC] power input on the TOP of the board.

15. Put a temporary 230 [VAC] male plug on the other end of these 3 wires.

Step 9: Flash the Microchip PIC 18F46K22 Microcontroller

This step can be done by anybody who owns a Microchip ICD3 programmer and debugger.

If you know C language programmation, you can tune the source code to personalize the core functions of the Musical Amplifier.

Through this source code, the microcontroller is driving the front ON/OFF push-buttons and 7-segments display, and switch ON/OFF power supplies and audio channels.

You can add a TSIC506F digital temperature sensor to measure the heatsink's temperature, I've written a library for it, which is included in the source code.

Needed tools:

1. Microchip ICD3 programmer and debugger

2. TagConnect cable

2. Integrated Development Environment: MPLabX 1.85 of 2013, 340 [MB]. You need it ? Please contact me. / EXE file
3. Compiler: C18 3.45 of 2013, 75 [MB]. You need it ? Please contact me. / EXE file

Attached files:

1. The 11.3 version C language source code / ZIP file

Way forward like on the attached pictures:

1. Plug the main power plug of the amplifier into a 230 [VAC] source. The two leds "24V" and "5V" should light up.

2. Plug the TagConnect patch cable inside the ICD3.

3. Plug the ICD3 into your computer.

4. Open the attached project in MPLabX.

5. Compile the project and check that there is no error.

6. Connect the TagConnect connector to the intended location on the BASE board and maintain it.

7. Upload the HEX file machine source code inside the PIC microcontroller.

8. Unconnect the TagConnect from the BASE board. The MCU should start.

9. With a small wire, make an electrical bridge between P16 and P17, then the amplifier should start. This means that 9 relays and 11 leds have to turn on.

10. With the same wire, make an electrical bridge between P55 and P56, then the amplifier should stop. This means that 9 relays and 11 leds have to turn off.

11. Unplug the main power plug from the 230 [VAC] source.

12. Close the MPLabX software.

Step 10: Finish to Mount All Components and Wires on the BASE Board

Step 11: Mount All Components on the INTERFACE Board

You can do this step by yourself if you've already soldered electronic components in your life. Very easy components soldering and mounting.

Please use a maximum iron tip temperature of 380 [°C] when you're soldering on the PCB boards. And it is necessary to weld as quickly as possible to avoid taking off the copper pads.

You will now mount the front face of the amplifier.

Needed tools:

1. Minimum 80 [W] soldering station for small electronics

2. ROHS welding wire

3. Adapted screwdrivers and pliers

4. Indelible black felt pen

5. Hot glue gun

Needed components:

1. 2x M3 screws 15 [mm] length

2. 2x M3 nuts

3. 2x M3 toothed washers

4. A 1 [m] length ribbon cable with 13x 0,22 [mm2] wires

4. 3x black and 3x red 4 [mm] gold speaker connectors

6. All components regarding to the attached BOM file

Attached files:

1. The TOP component layout / PDF file

2. The BOTTOM component layout / PDF file

3. The BOM file with all components references, components descriptions and main component supplier / PDF file

Way forward like on the attached pictures:

1. Solder the 1k 0603 resistors on the BOTTOM side R1 - R8.

2. Solder the 13 wires of the 1 [m] length ribbon cable on the BOTTOM side P1 - P4, P20 - P28.

3. Put hot glue on the ribbon cable on the BOTTOM side to maintain it to the INTERFACE board.

4. Solder both push-buttons SW1, SW2.

5. Solder the blue 7 segments display Q1 on the TOP side.

6. Mount the 230 [VAC] outlet P29 with the 2x M3 screws, toothed washers and nuts.

7. Mount the 3x 47k logarithmic potentiometer RV1, RV2 and RV3 with their knob.

8. Mount the 3x female cinch connector P6, P11 and P15.

9. Mound the 3x black P9, P14 and P17, and 3x red P5, P10 and P16 gold speaker connectors.

Step 12: Mount All Components on the 3 MAINAMP Boards

You can do this step by yourself if you've already soldered electronic components in your life. Very easy components soldering. But you have to build your own coils, this is the only complex task.

Please use a maximum iron tip temperature of 380 [°C] when you're soldering on the PCB boards. And it is necessary to weld as quickly as possible to avoid taking off the copper pads.

You will now mount the 3 amplifier cores, which means 3 electronic boards to assemble.

Needed tools:

1. Minimum 80 [W] soldering station for small electronics

2. ROHS welding wire

3. Adapted screwdrivers and pliers

4. Multimeter

Needed components:

1. 6x M3 screw 25 [mm] length

2. 6x M3 nuts

3. 6x M3 toothed washer

4. 6x TO-3PML insulating pad for main power transistors insulation

5. 30 [mm] width insulating scotch roll

6. Enamelled copper wire 1,32 [mm] diameter

7. All components regarding to the attached BOM file

Attached files:

1. The TOP component layout / PDF file

2. The BOTTOM component layout / PDF file

3. The BOM file with all components references, components descriptions and main component supplier / PDF file

Way forward like on the attached pictures:

1. Solder every component on the board listed in the BOM, out of the power transistors.

2. Prepare the coil L1, mount it and solder it.

3. Put 30 [mm] width insulating scotch at the top of the board.

4. Use the plier to bend the pins of the power transistors.

5. Assemble the 3 MAINAMP boards with screws, toothed washers, nuts, insulating pads and power transistors Q6 and Q7.

6. Solder the power transistors pins on both board sides.

7. Check with the multimeter that there is no electrical connection between the G D S pins of the power transistors and the aluminium heating part.

8. Check with the multimeter that there is no short circuit between the G D S pins of the power transistors.

Step 13: Wash MAINAMP and BASE Boards

Step 14: Mount the Differents Parts Together and Prepare All Audio Cables

Step 15: Test and Measure Each Audio Channel

Step 16: Find Medium-high 2 Ways Left and Right Loudspeakers

Step 17: Tune the Settings and Listen to Music

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    Discussions

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    ÐeeJaƴP

    12 days ago

    Je suis posséseur d'un des amplificateur de Joel Huser, ils sont incroyablement précis et agréable à écoouter avec la pair de Marantz que celui-ci m'a offert avec l'ampli.