Intro: Neon Cube Light
Hello! Welcome to my tutorial of the Neon Cube Light!
PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS!!! IF YOU DO NOT FEEL COMFORTABLE WITH WIRING 110V AND PLAYING WITH THE WALL OUTLET PLEASE CONSULT SOMEONE WHO DOES (preferably a licensed electrician).
Scale to mix the silicon to the right ratio
Knife or scissors
Putty Knife or a scrapper to scrape off each side of cube after silicon has set
Mixing Cups (Solid Cups will work you don't need anything special)
Stir Sticks (Popsicle Sticks, plastic wear)
Laser cuter or equivalent to make each part file
Hot Glue Gun (I used a mini one and it worked fine)
Some time for curing and building
Materials (can very in thickness, quantity, and size):
Half sheet of .23/.25in thick Multiplex or plywood.
Trial Size (2 lbs) will be enough for one light of Smooth-on Dragon Skin 10 Fast or a 2 part silicon mix. (Probably the most expensive part of this whole project) Dragon Skin - Smooth-on
Silicon Dye, I used neon colors
2 or 3 LED light bulbs, 2 if you are careful!
Your desired length of lamp cord kit or cord with a (16/2 or 18/2 depends on your plan and electrical knowledge)
2 lamp sockets read to wire
12"x12" Acrylic or wood for light support (I used Plastic because I thought it would be safer then wood)
Step 1: Cut the Frame
Use the file to cut out the lattice in the wood via laser cutter or other cutting means.
***I have updated the file since my first attempt, but failed to take photos of it, though it is the same process*** It is detailed later in the steps with a close up on the change. I have taken the center socket hole out and placed a bracket mount on the inside with the cord running out one of the corners on the cube (see file) I liked the way the light sat on a table better this way and you could also hang it from a hook from a ceiling. Visually to me it looks better this way. But you can always modify it to your liking!
*Note (see green silicon circle and wood photo) the silicone properties will allow it to adhere into the woods porous structure creating a bond. This build will not work with Acrylic.
Step 2: Pour the Silicon!
Prep your silicone and have a plan. I poured "randomly" trying to make sure that a color would not be on the same side as another, only exception is being diagonal. Play with the design and colors, have fun with it!
Follow the instructions on the silicon mixture to the exact measurement. It is very precise for a reason, a little more or less will cause it not to cure correctly. I weighed mine for precision, which worked for me, you might have a different method. When in doubt google it! Also keep in mind the "Pot Life" of the silicone and plan accordingly.
For pouring, (with much trial and error/learning) I laid the pattern out on masonite board because the surface texture was smooth enough to be able to use a putty knife to scrape off the cube sides without pulling the silicone from the wood. I did not have to glue or do anything special between the wood and masonite luckily but you might need to for a different silicon type. The brand I used was thick like molasses when poured, so the excess didn't creep under into the other boxed areas.
Step 3: Base Stand and Bracket
While the silicone is setting prepare the base and light fixture bracket. See next step for what the bracket will look like.
I used hot glue to hold together all the parts as I have found it easier, faster, and just as strong in this case then acrylic glue for the bracket and wood glue for the base.
Step 4: Wire and Constructing
I wired my two led lights in parallel using the bracket file on the previous step. Adjust your material thickness as needed for a perfect fit diagonally in the cube (or building up some hot glue in the seems).
I used hot glue to hold all the walls together except for the top with if constructed and cut with precision should have a pressure fit to stay on without having the glue it. This will let you get in and change the bulb if needed.
Depending on your lamp cord kit it may come with a plug at the end already, regardless I recommend you feed the positive and negative ends through the triangle base holder before completing all the soldering just incase your plug doesn't fit through the triangle.
I additionally made later on a small triangle "stopper" in the bottom corner where the cord exists the cube. You can also just tie a knot in the cord to prevent the strain and hazard of the cord pulling on the soldered connections and coming loose. This could cause a short circuit, or your the cube not to light up.
Again, please, consult a professional if you have no idea what parallel means, or have never dealt with electrical wiring.
Step 5: Completion and First Light!
Once you have double checked everything is in place, secured and wired correctly, plug in for your first light. And.... congratulations you have yourself a Cube Light!
Adding a bass fader to the light to react to music
The neon dye I used reacts in backlights, this could be your next home rave light accessory
Like I said before you can set it on a self or hang it from a hook in a corner, both are really cool!
Paint/stain the wood as an accent piece and play with solid colors.
Use different patterns or designs! M.C. Esher is next on my list!
Thanks for Looking!
Always remember mistakes are always something to learn and build from! This projects branched off a happy mistake I made with a different silicone project. Always test the materials abilities!
Runner Up in the