Nerf Strongarm Mod Pack

Introduction: Nerf Strongarm Mod Pack

About: I live in NZ and I like making things, fire, destroying things and pies.

This includes Reverse loading, AR removal, and Paintball firing.

Step 1: Part I: Butterflication

Butterfly the strongarm. Keep the screws in a safe place. When you take off the cocking handle, a spring will be screwed to one half. Remove the screw and spring, but PUT THE SCREW BACK IN. It is notoriously easy to lose.

Step 2: Part II: Reverse Loading

Remove the cylinder. Drill through each of the barrels with the 9.5mm drill bit. Drill through the back. When you take the cylinder out, some of the guns' guts might come spilling out. Also, the front grey bit of the cylinder might fall out. That's okay. Both easy fixes. This mod is really only useful for firing stubs (half darts).

Step 3: Part III: AR Removal

Remove these three parts. The trigger needs a screw undone. The T-shaped bit is in the top right corner, and the tiny orange thing is in the middle of the tact rail.

Step 4: Part III

Remove the gut package from the gun. Pull out the firing tube, or the big orange cylinder. Make sure you keep its little spring safe. Pull the finny shaped end of the tube, and a big thing with a big spring (ahhh poetry) should come out. Now drill through the middle of the foam ring until weird things stop coming out. Try not to damage the seal too much. Put the gun back together now.

Step 5: Part IV: Paintball Firing

As for the paintballs, just plonk one in, push it in, cock, aim, and fire!
See my jolt article for what kinds of paintballs to use.

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    5 Discussions


    1 year ago

    I think that it is really cool you managed to make a nerf gun shoot paintballs. That is something I would recommend to someone who wants to get into paintball, but is low on money.


    4 years ago

    I would recommend not using a drill to remove the AR since, as you demonstrated, it's very easy to damage the foam ring. What I did was use thin pliers to twist and snap off the front part. I then took a Phillips head screwdriver, inserted it into the circular hole in the back of the AR and hammered out the part that the spring is attached to. To clean up, I used a flat head screwdriver as a chisel to remove the stubs of the plastic posts.

    As a side note, instead of using Nerf blasters to fire paintballs, use paintball guns to fire Nerf darts. Provided that the paintball gun has the right barrel diameter, you shouldn't need to modify the paintball gun in any way. Just don't use stock darts. They tend to be torn apart by paintball guns. I'd use solid, homemade darts, but I haven't gotten around to making any.


    4 years ago on Introduction

    A couple FYIs: To remove the AR, take a sharp wood chisel, insert it down the plunger tube, and work it back and forth until it slices through the plastic posts. Cut all 4 posts and discard the debris. Use the same chisel to clean up the opening at the end of the plunger tube. Much, much cleaner and quicker.

    Reverse loading is a waste of time. The barrel already falls out exposing almost all the chambers from the front. Just remove the dart post and leave a little of the stanchions so the darts simply stop at the end of the barrel when inserted from the front.

    After removing the dart posts, make sure the back end of the barrel is nice and smooth, otherwise it will tear up the foam gasket at the end of the plunger tube and all your efforts will be in vain. Ladies emery boards of varying coarseness are very effective at smoothing and polishing Nerf plastic.

    Also, pay attention to the front barrel alignment when you're putting the blaster back together. I wasn't paying attention, and it performed poorly until I figured out what was going on. Loosened the screws, popped it in place, and all was well.

    Lastly, watch out for the tactical rail button. It wants to pop out as soon as you butterfly the case. Use a little masking tape to hold it in place when you're ready to put it back together.

    The before and after results are mixed. Yes, it fires faster and farther. But it's WAY less accurate. And after all, isn't the object to actually HIT the other guy. It's great that the range is now 70 feet (21 meters). But now I can't hit a heifer in a hay field. Verdict: Meh. I had fun doing it, but the end result didn't make any difference. And frankly, it was kind of a pain in the a$$. I had to reassemble it twice before the cocking mechanism worked properly.

    Not a great mod, IMHO .