A material study exploring how to make wood malleable and rigid at the same time.
It was part of a bigger study - thinking about topographical visualization of a proposed architectural design (at scale), and being able to create models that not only help visualize an idea, but become pat of the ideation phase in real-time, allowing you to twist / lift / sink / bend / scrumple it in every possible way. In turn, influencing the bigger design.
As a result of making these various tests and hybrid materials, people took them away post-project, to use as bowls, holders, light-shades, art-work in it's own right! I think the brass ones (above) were really cool - but, that'll have to be a different instructable...
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Step 1: Gather the Materials
Apron - Because it won't come out of your clothes.
Face Mask - The adhesive is pungent.
Impact Adhesive - I used Thixofix; it's thick and heavy duty strength (+non-drip)
Pasting brush - To keep it even, and for fast application
Copper Mesh - Anything with a diamond meshing (3mm gaps max) - Copper because it's is elastic-flexibility
Wood Veneer - Any veneer you can get your hands on (1mm thickness or less is good)
Etching Scissors - To cut mesh, don't use normal scissors!
Step 2: Laser Setting Manipulation
I used a Trotec Speedy300 - meaning it doesn't laser cut metals (this is important)
Have some fun setting-up various laser cut settings. You want to set a scrap piece of veneer into the cutter (resting it on a board), then play with different cuts using whatever Vector software you prefer -- at which point you may want to use a simplified smaller cut pattern (for efficiency - not like what I did - see above). When your cut settings are at a point where they are etching almost all the way though the material, to the point where it feels like it is going to fall apart at any moment - then you are ready.
Take note of these setting, for later...
For those of you familiar with lasers, you might want to try rastering rather than cutting lines.
Step 3: Pattern Design
Depending on what you want to achieve - form wise, you might want to try various pattern designs. Do some test cuts on something cheaper (like card) - and see what shape profiles and flexibility you are achieving.
Mine were mainly uniform geometry variations, but that was due to the nature of the project - they can be any shape. Just remember, if the cuts are too close or too far apart - it may not workout well.
Step 4: Creating the Material
Cut both the Veneer and Meshing oversized. Get your gloves / apron / mask on - and use a well ventilated area (spray both if possible).
Paste a thin layer of the Thixofix to the back of the veneer and to one side of the mesh. Keep it even and apply fairly quickly. Wait until it had dried-off (like maybe 10 mins). Then press them both together firmly.
Step 5: Re-Cut & Trim
Reinsert the joined surface back into the laser bed.
Enter the cut settings saved from step 2.
Use the Vector file you decided worked best from Step 3.
Once the file is cut, take it out and trim the edges of the mesh with the Etching Scissors.
Step 6: Play
Make variations with different patterns, materials, etc.