Introduction: PLC Platino

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PLC Platino can be done in these 5 major steps:

  1. TRIMMING;
  2. DRILLING;
  3. RAILING;
  4. ZIPPING;
  5. WIRING.

PLC Platino is a simple way of making your own PLC with Arduino and a few modules of your choice! For that you just need the following material:

  • at least two Prototype Paper PCB Universal Experiment Matrix Circuit Board Bakelite 120*180 mm;
  • 2mm Self-Locking Plastic Cable Zip Ties;
  • 5V 2-Channel Relay Module Shield for Arduino;
  • 10CM 1P-1P 40P 2.54mm Dupont Cable Female to Female;
  • project box for Diy housing (1 pcs) 145*90*40mm junction housing electronic enclosure box din rail enclosure;
  • High Efficiency DC-DC Buck Converter Power Supply Module Step-down Voltage Regulator Car 35V 3A LM2596;
  • Arduino Nano V3 ATmega328/CH340G, Micro USB;

  • 12V 8 Channel Optocoupler Isolation Board High Level Trigger Isolated Module Positive Phase Amplification Plate 50mA;

  • 40 Pin 1x40 Single Row Male 2.54 Breakable Pin Header Connector Strip for Arduino Black.

Step 1: TRIMMING

To trim the board so it fits the case do the following:

  • Mark the places where to trim as shown in the pictures;
  • Then with the help of a cutter cut the board with the guide of another board;
  • Folder and unfold the board so it breaks in the cut mark so it breaks.

Step 2: DRILLING

To drill the main board follow these steps:

  • Layout all modules on the board considering space for the Rails (next step);
  • Use a 2.5mm drill bit to drill the needed holes in the board (a manual drill will do the work).

Step 3: RAILING

In this step the final result is the main Plate (Platino) where you need to do some soldering as follows:

  • Break the pin headers to the same number of the Arduino Board (15 pins);
  • Break the pin headers for the green socket (21 pins);
  • Save 4 rows of 10 pins for the I2C rail;
  • Place all pin headers on the board avoiding overlap with allocated space for modules delimited by the drilled holes;
  • Place a secondary protoboard over so that you may flip the board without dropping or displacement of the pins;
  • Mark the orientation of the railing;
  • Solder each rail accordingly to the right direction making sure bridges are done only along the rail an not between them (easier that it seems) (use low temperature to avoid too much fluidity);
  • Check the needed continuity and isolation in a zig zag path of continuity and isolation checking;
  • Remove the auxiliary protoboard and place the Arduino Board and the green Sockets;
  • While soldering the green Sockets make sure that Ground and Vcc are each one connected to two pins in a L fashion as shown in picture (because the Buck converter and the Optocoupler share the 12v ground);
  • Add pins (rails) to modules that are sold without them, in this case the Buck converter.

Step 4: ZIPPING

To fix the modules to the main board PLATINO follow these steps:

  • For each module, insert the repsective Zip ties upwards until the square lock touches the board;
  • Fold the ties with the gear rack inwards;
  • Pass the tie trough the same hole and zip it while the ratchet mechanism remains in contact with the main board;
  • Finally cut the surplus.

NOTE: Before using the DC Buck Converter you should adjust its output to 5V. Normally this devices come unregulated from the sellers!

Step 5: WIRING

Depending on the Arduino board you are using and the inputs you choose, follow these steps:

  • Strip the amount of dupont cables you need for each connection;
  • Make each connection while avoiding plugging more than a wire at the same time;
  • Visually check all your connections;
  • Upload the Blink sketch with the output pin adjusted to your needs, in this case, to the pin 11;
  • Check if the behavior is the expected.

NOTE: At first avoid the use of the D0 and D1 inputs has they are also the Arduino serial connectors and most likely will not behave has expected (need to disable serial).

Step 6: Final Steps

To finish completely your PLC Platino you need to close the enclosure, add a label and is not a bad idea to make a hole in the case so that the micro USB of the arduino board remains accessible from the exterior.

At any time you may add new modules or simple rewire them! See pictures for details.