This odaiko stand is built to use with my steel practice taiko (a separate Instructable). Again, all my Instructables are pretty flexible in their measurements, as I build things on the go with very rough draft.
The video shows how different pieces can be put together. In fact, it had to be stored in pieces due to limited space.
Step 1: Here's the Plan…
These nicer pencil drafts were drawn after I've made the stand.
The main idea is to build a stand that can stand still (not fall) while the practice drum is hit as hard as an odaiko should be hit. With that in mind, the front is kept light while the back is given more support. Keep in mind that a real odaiko weight 3-digit pounds, while a steel practice drum might weight 10-20.
This stand has been both steady on hard wood floor and carpet floor, yep!
According to my teacher Kenny Endo, the ideal height for a odaiko stand would hold the drum with its center as tall as yourself. Then, the width of the stand would depend on the width of your drum. This is why there is no fixed measurement.
Note: Be aware that you should include a little extra length for inserting into the fitting.
Step 2: Material & Tools
After you've made a rough draft… do some counting for below
- 1 inch PVC pipe ___ feet
schedule 40 is fine, schedule 80 would significantly increase the weigh, which could be good (more stable) and bad (more $, heavier to carry)
Rough guess of total length would be somewhere below 40 feet
- (optional) 3/4 inch pipe (~ 5 feet), this is what I use for the back leg.
- 90 degree elbows (1") x ___
- Tee (1"x1"x1") x ___
- (optional, if you will use 3/4 pipe) Tee (1"x1"x3/4") x ___
- (just in case) you might need couplers while figuring out the measurement
- Note: These joints do break when handled with hammer
I bought everything from Home Depot's plumbing section. You might find different joints from future grade PVC, but I don't know anything about them.
PVC caps (1") x 2, close out the bottom legs.
Rubber foot x1
- These are originally made for table / chair legs. I forgot the exact size… but you can match the size in the store easily. Look for ones that fit just right; once mine was hammered into a pipe, it wouldn't ever come off.
- What I had were cheap ones with metal wire hook. That way it's easy to alter the hook shapes (i.e. to match the pipe's diameter, even to close the hook.)
5-lb free-weight (or some kind of weight, sand bag?)
- I took it out of my weight kit, the 3/4" pipe fitted right in. The purpose of a weight is really to stabilize the stand and stop it from moving backward upon hitting. The free weight is great because it was attached to the stand and won't fall out AT ALL.
Small pieces of rubber, or bike inner tube
- Place between the drum and PVC pipe, so the drum wouldn't slide, or make buzzing noise.
- PVC cutter
- Hammer (regular metal one is fine, or rubber one if you are strongly against denting the PVC)
- Tape measure
- (optional) A level would help.
Step 3: Cutting the Pipes, Put Together
I don't know how to instruct you on this step; you have your measurement and I guess you'd just have to follow the plan.
Because I didn't have a plan when I was building the stand, putting it together was very clumsy; I was guessing the measurement, arguing with myself wither to add more support (more material, more trips to Home Depot). Perhaps this is necessary, as the plan might not work as expected. Prepare to adjust measurements during the process.
It was built during college winter break, took me about two weeks.
Step 4: Let Me Know If You Have Any Questions
At this point, I believe the pictures are pretty self explanatory. Since it was built to accommodate my steel barrel drum, it might not be very useful to most people. And I don't think it would fit tire drums because they are shallow and heavy, although I would very much like to explore the possibility for a odaiko stand for tire drum.
If you are considering to make it and have questions, feel free to comment and I will get back to you! I also manage a Facebook page called "DIY Taiko".