Painting a New Version of the Games Workshop: Warrior of Minas Tirith




this inructable shows how to paint a new version of Games Workshops Warrior of Minas Tirith.

Step 1: Undercoating the Model

Take your model outside (or wherever you spray-paint your models) and give it a good coating of Chaos Black Spray(or just any flat black spray paint). After waiting the obligatory hour for the paint to dry (you can use this time to do whatever you like watch some television, tidy up the awful mess you?ll have made converting the models etc.) go back outside and fetch your guy. Touch up any areas the spray didnt reach with Chaos Black(the armpits and the Greenstuff mail usually need touching up on my models) and then your all ready to go.

Step 2: The First Drybrush

always begin models with areas that need drybrushed or overbrushed, as it is a pretty messy technique and is almost guaranteed to ruin any painting on the surrounding areas. On this model, that would be the chainmail. I have yet to come up with a revolutionary way of painting mail, so this stage is pretty basic.
First, drybrush on a coat of Boltgun Metal onto the mail. After this has dried, drybrush a lighter coat of Chainmail onto the model. Finally, and this is down to personal preference, water down black ink (and I mean really water it down, to about 1 part ink to 8 water) and apply this onto the mail too. Touch up any patches of the undercoat that you got silver onto, and you?re done.

Step 3: Painting Skin

After any drybrushing thats needed, I will always paint the skin. This is partially because it can be very hard to paint skin without getting it onto the helmet or hair, and partially because I really enjoy painting faces.Begin with a basecoat of Bestial Brown mixed with Dwarf Flesh (at a ratio of 1:1), to give the models skin a nice tone, and dont forget any areas of neck that you can see. This is then given a highlight of pure Dwarf Flesh, painted onto all but the deepest recesses (around the eyes and in the crease beneath the bottom lip, mainly.) Follow this up with a mix of 1 part Dwarf Flesh to 1 part Elf Flesh., and apply this to the higher points on the face - the lips, the cheeks and chin. To finish off the highlighting, give the highest points on the face (the chin, possibly the cheeks depending on the model) a very light touch of pure Elf Flesh. After this, you can leave it at that, or you can add one final layer. I added a wash of very dilute Flesh Wash (again at about 1:8 Flesh Wash to water) just to blend all of the highlights together. As I said with the wash on the mail, it is purely down to personal preference. sorry about the pic, so close all of the blotches in the plastic is seen.

Step 4: The Surcoat

The new surcoats you have modelled onto your models (that sounds really stupid!!) now cover the majority of the models, so rest easy in knowing that you?re nearly half way there. This is also one of the few stages I didn?t use an ink wash on, so rejoice in that. As well as being used on the surcoat, this is the colour used for the shield (if the model has one) and the scabbard/quiver.

Begin with a basecoat of approximately 2 parts Chaos Black to 1 part Skull White. Unfortunately, this is but an estimation as I mixed the paint colour many moons ago (about 8 months, I think, to use on my Imperial Guard, and lost the piece of paper I noted down the ratios on.) Leave Chaos Black in the deepest folds and creases on the model.

Next, mix an equal amount of Codex Grey into the original mix, and use this for the first highlight on the model, painting it onto almost every area you painted the basecoat, but leaving a small band of the original mix in the deeper creases.

Add in another equal amount of Codex Grey (making it 2 parts codex grey, 1 part original mix) and use this as the second highlight stage. Finally, using yet another equal amount, this time of Fortress Grey, lighten the colour and use this as the final highlight stage, painting it the highest ridges.

Step 5: Finally the Armor

Begin with a basecoat of Boltgun Metal, painted onto the whole of the metal. Highlight this with Chainmail, applied onto the higher areas of the model, leaving the Boltgun Metal showing the gaps in the armour on the shoulders, and in the recesses on the helmet and so on. A final highlight of Mithril Silver was used on the very highest points of the armour. To finish it off, wash it with the same mix used on the mail - 1 part Black Ink to 8 parts water

Step 6: Boots, Belts and Gloves.

A few small bits left to go.

The first of these are the gloves, belts and boots on your model. Both were given a basecoat of Scorched Brown (I did this particular model?s hair at the same time). The boots and gloves are then highlighted with a coat of Bestial Brown (as was this model?s hair) whilst the belt was highlighted with Dark Fles

Step 7: Finsishing Touches

only a few simple things needing finished, the last few painting tips are going to be grouped together.

Gold Details
The gold detailing on the Scabbard and the hilt and pommel on the sword were both painted at the same time. Simply basecoat the areas with Brazen Brass, and highlight it with Burnished Gold.

White Tree
This truly is simplicity reincarnated. Paint the white tree motif Skull White. I?ve found that this works best if you use a small amount of paint and use the side of the brush to apply it. However, this is completely up to you.

Shield Rivets
Ok, I lied before. this is simplicity reincarnated. Using a fine detail brush, take a small dab of Mithril Silver, and then, well, dab it onto the rivets.

Some of your models may have a small piece of the underskirt showing between the mail, so that must also be covered here I guess. It?s really easy to do, a simple 2 stage highlighting procedure. Basecoat it with Codex Grey, and highlight that with Fortress Grey

Step 8: Base

All that is left for you to do is to base your model in your own chosen way. I choose to paint the top of the base Bestial Brown (nothing out of the ordinary there) and the rim Scorched Brown. I them glue on sand again nothing new and leave that to dry.

Once the base is dry, wash Brown Ink over the top of the sand. Once this too has dried, overbrush the base with Bestial Brown. To finish it off, I glue on patches of the ?spring mix? from Antenociti?s Workshop, sticking some static grass on top before the glue dries.

Step 9: Conclusion

Congrats! Youve now finished your first reborn Warrior of Minas Tirith. Sit back, relax for a while. Before long, you will have a good looking, well painted force of men with which to slaughter the armies of Mordor.



    • Classroom Science Contest

      Classroom Science Contest
    • Backyard Contest

      Backyard Contest
    • 1 Hour Challenge

      1 Hour Challenge

    27 Discussions


    12 years ago

    I'm interested in these colours that I've never previously heard of: Chaos Black - blacker than priest's socks?! Skull White - sun-bleached or fresh? Bestial Brown(?!) And please, what on Earth (or anywhere else) is Brazen Brass? (at least on definition of 'brazen' meaning 'made of brass') Perhaps half the fun is in the paint? L

    11 replies

    Reply 9 years ago on Introduction

    Wow, that takes me back (more than 3 years) thanks!.
    I meant (back then) that the alliteration sounds a bit "girly" - why stupid names like "brazen-brass" when you're a male painting heavy-metal warriors, not fingernails?


    General Eggslemonie

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    It's just what Games Workshop decided to name their paints to describe the shade of the colors.


    The Chaos Black is a paint colour released by Games Workshop. It is basically black, they just gave it a fancy name. Same with Skull white and Bestial Brown. Brazen Brass, probably some other colour that I have not seen at GW. I have written an article on another site about the "King of the Dead" from Return of the king

    most of the time it also says the shade and the type of paint. Burnished Gold and Shining Gold are two different shades. There's also Dabab Black and Chaos Black, whereas Dabab is a wash and Chaos black is a Foundation


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    what a stupid non-constructive comment.

    Thats like taking the piss out of the name of a video game that you previously had not heard of. Just because you are unaware of a certain brand of specialist paints made specially for the miniatures concerned.

    If GW referered to their products as simply brown or black would mean that people would not buy their particular paints, thus losing millions in sales capita and people would use any old paint on their ludicrously expensive GW minis and wreck them, by using poster paints or such

    maybe you should think before you start to mock other peoples hobbies



    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    To me, it sounds as tho "lemonie" just wanted to know whether or not these colors were some special colors or just normal colors with quite ironic names. He was not trying to "take the piss" out of this instructable and while his comment may not have been constructive in and of itself, it was full of curiosity and oddly enough, after "Does Not Compute" answered his question it became a constructive comment because people learned something about this hobby, not to mention got a chuckle out of the original comment. It seems to me that your comment was the non-constructive one here and I believe I'll leave it at that because instructables has a "be nice" policy that you would do well to read.


    Reply 11 years ago on Introduction

    sorry, i was in a bad mood. i guess i'm just uber-sensitive to people mocking the hobby apologies


    8 years ago on Introduction

    You can buy the paints on or go to a games-workshop store near.


    11 years ago on Introduction

    nice details! there should be an instructable on how to make the model


    11 years ago on Introduction

    Ah, i hate painting mine- thats why i have a necron army, its like a five second paintjob but yields amazing looking results. On a good day i can do about 300 points of necron in a night. i like the paintjob you gave these though.


    12 years ago

    Very nice eye for detail thanks dude!