Pallet Shed

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My wife and I moved into our new place a couple years ago knowing we would need to get a riding mower to keep up with the bigger yard. Between the riding mower and all the other stuff we discovered we'd need to keep up with the yard, we quickly lost half of the 2 car garage to yard equipment. We priced storage sheds, but ones that would be big enough to hold the mowers and be tall enough to keep me from cracking my head inside cost way too much; over $2300 for a 10'x10' shed at a local big box home improvement store.

We decided to build, but even low end building materials were going to add up quickly. We had been making shelves and small furniture pieces out of pallets for a couple months and started discussing using pallets as our building material. Then, one day, something really fortunate happened. There's a local printing company that occasionally sets their unwanted pallets out on the curb for who ever wants them. We happened to drive by and discovered about 5 of the biggest, stoutest pallets we'd ever seen. Each measured about 4 feet ab 6 feet. We had just found our shed. Well, most of it.

You can build one, too. These instructions show what we were able to cobble together based on what materials we had at hand. Using some of the techniques we learned, you can build your own

Step 1: Tools & Materials

Tools Needed:

Cordless drill/driver - drill holes / drive screws - Harbor Freight= $25

Phillips heads for screws

a 14" long 5/8" dill bit - for drilling all-thread bolt holes

Circular saw

Oscillating tool - used to cut the all-thread - Harbor Freight= $20

level (the bigger the better)

step ladder

2 pair of pliers

tape measure

Materials:

Dozens of pallets

2 - 5 foot lengths of 5/8" all-thread

about a pound of nuts and washers to go with the all-thread

5 pounds of 1-1/2 in screws
2 pounds of 3 in screws

assorted door hardware as you like

6 - 12x2 ft roofing tin

1 - 4x8 sheet of chipboard

Step 2: Build Your Base

We leveled out a 10' square area by means of digging into the ground and elevating with cement blocks. Start level and square to keep your building true and plumb later on. Once our site was prepped, I attached my first two 4'x6' pallets to ground contact rated 10' 2x4's using the 3" screws. These became he first corner of the building. The pallets walls were attached to each other by lining them up square, then drilling through with the long 5/8's drill bit. We then measured and cut a piece of allthread a couple inches longer than each hole needed. We bolted the pallets together top, bottom and center using the nuts and washes. It may have been overkill, but allthread is cheap and better safe than sorry!

Step 3: Working Your Way Around

We added another pallet to the back using screws on the bottom and allthread bolts on the sides, then did the same on the right side

Step 4: Keep Working Around

We put up the back left corner side wall using screws on the bottom, but used some pallet top boards to attach this side piece to the back wall. These were the last of the 4'x6' pallets.

Step 5: Working Up the Sides

We added smaller, regular sized (about 40"x48") pallets to complete the side walls. Again, we used screws to attach the pallets to the ground contact lumber, and allthread bolts to attach the pallets to each other side to side.

Step 6: Bring It Around the Front

We acquired some long, skinny pallets (about 3'x8') from a place a couple towns over that sold hot tubs. These weren't as stout as the 4'x6' we used for the back walls, so we used some 2x4 lumber that would frame the doorway to add structural integrity.

We then added three 12' 2x4's front to back to support a temporary plastic roof and framed in the doorway. Over night it looked like some kind of a weird greenhouse.

Step 7: Adding Doors & Roof

In the garage, we built a couple doors out of chip board and pallet tops, then hung them in the door frames. We made them plenty wide to accommodate the riding lawn mower that would soon be living there.

At this point, the 10' wide x 10' deep frame of the shed is done!

The temporary plastic roof was replaced with 7 - 12' 2x4's and 6 - 12 foot long sheets of corrugated tin. The shed is about 8 feet tall in the front, and about 6 feet tall in the back, so there's plenty of slant for the rain to run off.
This tin was by far the biggest expense for the shed, coming in at about $120 for the tin and self tapping screws that made up the roof

(We found out a week or so later that an aunt had had an old barn blow down on her property. We could have recycled the tin from her old barn at no cost.)

Step 8: Windows & Skin

Now the fun part! We left some spots in the front blank so we could let some light in. We did not want all the birds nesting inside, so the window coverings are made from plastic florescent light covers. With a heavy hand, they'll cut with a box knife. We cut slightly smaller than the frame and caulked them in place.

The shed 'skin' is pallet tops. They are very uniform in width, so the look nice stacked on top of each other horizontally. When we would get the the end of a row, we would measure carefully, then cut the last piece to the exact length needed. The left over bit from that board would be used to start the next row, just like hardwood floors. The variety of wood species and colors just adds to the look of the finished product. We completed the skin on front first, then went to the back and sides

Step 9: DONE!

Since the roof is angled to let the rain run off quickly, those side pieces needed a little more effort to cover and still look nice. Once the proper angle was measured, we were able the set it on the table saw and have a nice, uniform incline all the way up the roof line.

You, too, can build your own shed!
Take your time, measure carefully, don't let mistakes get you down, and have fun!

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Second Prize in the
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2 People Made This Project!

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64 Discussions

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VivianW7

3 months ago on Step 1

Hello. Very nice shed. One comment if I may. Used to erect Agricultural Buildings in UK for about 10 years. Steel. Timber, Asbestos and Metal cladding etc. I notice that you have the roof sheets running the same way as the rafters. Of course - correct but you should have timbers(purlins) crossing at (90 degrees to the rafters) to support the roof sheets. If you look at some of the photos you can see tin sheets sagging between rafters. Perhaps you have them lower down but certainly not at the top. Of course at this size you could of used 2 x 12ft rafters- 1 each end - then put 10ft purlins across the top , at 90 degrees to roof sheet layout -either fixed on top of rafters or using joist hangers at each end. Good shed though.

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Griffin can

Question 4 months ago

Thanks for replying and the good info this is what I was needing to find out I have been collecting pallets for a 10x12 shed ..wish me luck.!! Thanks and have a wonderful day

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mmoffatpandemonium24

Reply 4 months ago

About $200 on roofing materials. Corrugated tin isnt as cheap as i would've liked

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mmoffatpandemonium24

Reply 3 years ago on Introduction

The whole thing was about $220-$225. There was some treated lumber for the ground contact base, a couple cinder blocks to level stuff out, 2x4's for the door frame and roof rafters, a sheet of chipboard for the doors, allthread, washers, nuts, screws (SO many screws!) and the tin for the roof itself. If we'd had known about the tin the awesome aunt had available, the total cost would've been a lot closer to $100.

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mmoffatJeffmclerran

Reply 4 months ago

just gravel and dirt. It was North facing, so nothing grew inside.

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mmoffatJeffmclerran

Reply 3 years ago

Nothing, really. Just left it dirt, pushed some up against the side to discourage critters from taking up residence.

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mmoffatAdamF143

Reply 4 months ago

You could see light through he walls, but everything inside stayed dry.

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mmoffatAdamF143

Reply 1 year ago

The roof overlaps & overhangs enough that nothing gets rained on.
The siding pieces are tight enough that nothing blows in. I would say
that it's not water-proof, but it is water-tight. I built in some
venting at the top so the whole thing can 'breathe'. That came in real
handy when I put the smoker in there last Summer!

https://youtu.be/AHgSgYMSkDw

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MikeP318

1 year ago

mmoffat, what about vents or a window on each side of building to get air going through and shutting that opening in roof?? I have many squrrels and other animals around.. Cant leave anything open! Hope to hear from you about your thoughts and thanks for posting your shed!

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mmoffatMikeP318

Reply 4 months ago

Those areas at the roof could have been covered with a netting or filled with scrap boards, but I just left them open . I used it as a smoker shed for wile and that upper vent worked great. I never had a problem with critters.

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mmoffatMikeP318

Reply 12 months ago

You could put boards or staple screen material up in those gaps to keep
critters out. I left them open for ventilation, especially once I moved
the propane meat smoker in there! :)

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marcpilot1

Question 9 months ago on Step 8

Ughhhh! I think I screwed up! I think I posted my question in the "tips" category! Can I erase it from there?? Delete it somehow?? Sorry!

Heres what I said and I meant to put it here, in the proper "questions" category:

Do you know, approximately, the # of pallets used overall? Like was
it about 50 or 60 or a hundred pallets, or so? Just wanted to know about
how many pallets I need to shoot for from stores in my area. I assume
it's a 10X10. That's about the perfect size for us!

Btw, my wife
& I are very impressed! And very appreciative of you sharing so much
info, pics, answers to peoples questions, your time, etc, etc, etc.
Thank you for this effort!

1 more answer
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mmoffatmarcpilot1

Reply 4 months ago

I frame was about 6 - 4'x6' pallets, + 6 - 'regular size' pallets, + 2 - 3'x8' pallets that came from hot tubs.
I cannot tell you how many pallets were deconstructed to provide the 'skin' other than it was a LOT! :)

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Griffin can

Question 4 months ago on Introduction

Hello, I am thinking about building a pallet shed and i can't figure out the doorway size can you please tell me what size of doors and door opening are. Thank and God bless.!!

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mmoffatGriffin can

Reply 4 months ago

The doors were custom to allow me to walk in without ducking, so about 6'6" tall. The mower deck was 42" wide, had a couple inches extra space on each side, so about 48" wide, together, so right about 24" wide for each door.

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Vbettez

7 months ago

Nice work! I made one too from recycled wood, but I bought it online and prefab. It is called a bunkie :)