Preferred wood for the mould
PVC glue or wood glue
Thin wood laminate
Iron or steamer
Router (only if you want desk tidy and well)
Sanding paper -60, 80, 115, 120, 300 and 600 grit
Teachers! Did you use this instructable in your classroom?
Add a Teacher Note to share how you incorporated it into your lesson.
Step 1: Started With a Block of Wood 210mm X 140mm
Start by drawing desired shape on the side of the block. If there are going to be curves use a French curve to help you get the design your going for.
I used a band saw to put in relief cuts in to take the strain off the blade.
Then followed around the side of the line to take out most of the un-needed wood.
Next I used the bobbin sander to finalize my desired curves.
Step 2: Cleaning It Up
First is took a high grit sand paper on a belt sander to the bottom and the left hand curve to make it smooth.
Then on the sides to get rid off the shape drawing (if already accomplished).
Set I used the bobbin sander to deepen the curve on the bottom left.
Step 3: Forming Around the Mould (Practice)
I used cardboard for my first practice of forming materials to the mould, but you can use any inexpensive material that has the same properties as it.
Firstly I cut the pieces to size.
Then i steamed my card with an iron and a damp cloth. The iron was constantly moving on the surface until the card was damp.
After that I wrapped my steamed card around the mould, fixed it in place with rubber bands.
Lastly I let it dry over night.
Step 4: Trial and Error
Now it was time to bend the wood laminate around the mould, but as you can see by the cracking on the second photo, I had chosen an incorrect wood. This will happen if you don't use a wood laminate with Long grains, long grains provide strength and made it more bendable.
Short grains will crack at the sign of any stress at the grain ends.
Firstly I cut the laminate to size.
Then I steamed the wood lamythe same as I did for the cardboard but for a little longer.
And I repeated this on all laminate pieces.
Next they were placed in the mould WITHOUT GLUE, and let to dry in that position over night.
The 2nd photo is an example of short grains.
And the 3rd is an example of long grains.
Step 5: Gluing and Vacuum Forming
I then separated the dried and semi formed pieces and placed a thin layer of wood glue between the laminated pieces.
Next I put it back in the mould and put tape and rubber bands around the project.
After that I put it in the vacuum bag and got all the air out with a pump.
Then I let it dry and form over night.
Step 6: Construction of the Wood Curved Block (right Part of the First Photo)
I got some like colored wood and cut it in half then glued them together.
Next I cut it the block the desired size.
Then I put the design on the side of the block with a French curve.
Then I band sawed the peice out with a some reliefs to take strain off the blade.
After that I took it to the bobbin sander to finish the curve.
Lastly I glued the block to the formed laminated peice, and taped it to restrain.
Step 7: Sanding and Finishing
Firstly I used the band saw and cut some the excess and overlap
Then I sanded the wood and the laminate flush.
Then with a fine grit to smoothen.
Then I finished with bee's wax to get a nice finish.
Step 8: Desk Tidy
Get a piece of like coloured wood.
Route out 10mm high x 7mm in to get a rebate joint. (Circled part on photo)
Then glue the desk tidy peice to the phone stand and constrain together.
After that cut the block of wood to the desired size of the desk tidy.
Then wood fill any gaps and go over with 300 then to 600 grit sand paper.
Then drill holes on top 5-6mm for pencils and pens.
Then finish with with fine grit sand paper and bee's wax.
Then put felt on the bottom if you want to.
Step 9: Final Look
This is the final sanded and waxed project.
If you would like to, make any adjustments to suit your style and preferences.
Feel free to send me your version of this project.
Participated in the