Introduction: Pier 9 Guides: Using Sandvik Tooling on the Sharp Lathe
This Instructable is for Workshop Users at Pier 9
Requirements for using this equipment:
Read through this Intructable
Take General Workshop Safety
Take Basic Metal
Take Manual Lathe Class
This Instructable cannot teach you how to use the lathe but is designed to give you additional information on the Sandvik indexable tooling system.
Step 1: Overview
Hello Creative Workshops User. Perhaps you have noticed the new Sandvik tooling that we are using on the Sharp lathe. We think that you will find it a big step up from previous tooling as it will enable you to take heavier cuts, get cleaner surface finishes, hold tighter tolerances, and be easier to use.
They utilize the most advanced grade of carbide insert with the most sophisticated geometry. The inserts are more standardized so they should be easier to change should one wear out or break. Also, the toolholders are optimized for the Aloris toolpost we have so they should get into places that other ones can't.
Think of these tools as regular lathe tooling with the most important part – the cutting edges – engineered and fabricated to the highest standards.
The ultimate goal is to have every Sandvik tool in its own Aloris tool holder with the center height set and fixed. Then the tools are truly interchangeable, and you can just grab the right one for the job and begin using it. We will have every tool with the inserts, associated Torx wrenches, and spare parts stored together in the cabinet labeled "Lathe Tooling".
In these images, each tool has been mounted by shop staff in the appropriate Aloris tool holder by screwing down on the set screws against a piece of brass that protects the Sandvik tool.
Step 2: The Tools We Will Be Using
The new Sandvik tooling includes (as pictured above):
80-degree right-hand turning/facing
80-degree left-hand turning/facing
55-degree right-hand turning/facing
35-degree right-hand turning/facing
inside threading tool
outside threading tool
Step 3: Setting Up the Aloris Toolpost
Of course, a critical first step is to make sure that the toolpost itself is square to the lathe. To accomplish this, I remove the collet to expose the spindle nose. In the photo above, I have placed a boring bar holder in the tool post and then used the wrench (hanging from the front of the lathe) to loosen the nut and adjust the toolpost so that the tool holder is totally flush against the spindle. Once this has been done, all the tools, especially the boring bar and parting tools, will be square to the axis of the lathe. (The final image shows a 1-2-3 block being used to verify that the parting tool is parallel to the spindle face.) Make sure the nut has been properly tightened.
Step 4: Setting the Center Height and Angle of All the Tools You Will Need for Your Operations.
Just like it has always been, you have to make sure that the tool is set at the proper center height. I always begin a project by putting a random 1" rod of steel or aluminum in a collet and using a turning/facing tool (like the one pictured above) to face the part.You will then see if the tool point is right in the center of the concentric circles on the part. If so, you done good! If not, use the knurled ring to raise or lower the tool so that it is just right.
I also check that the tool is set so that the tip of the tool is the part that is doing the cutting and it won't drag the trailing edge along your part. In the photos you can see a slender wedge between the part and the tool. This means it has been set correctly. The only exception would be a parting tool that should go straight into the part and not be angled at all.
Before you even start your project, check that every tool is at the right height and alignment. (In images 3 & 4 the height of the parting tool and 35-degree turning/facing tool are being checked.) Now you are ready to run your job and make some parts.
Step 5: Let's Review the Operations for Which Each Tool Is Designed.
This is a turning and facing tool that uses an 80-degree insert. That is the strongest and most durable geometry for these operations and will give you the best results.
Step 6: 80 Degree Left-hand Turning/facing
There is also a left-hand version of the 80 degree tool that will allow you to turn and cut shoulders on opposite faces from the right-hand tool.
Step 7: 55-degree Turning and Facing
This tool will access areas of your part that are harder to get to with the 80-degree tool. The issue is that as the insert gets more pointy, it is more susceptible to breakage.
Step 8: 35-degree Turning and Facing
This is the narrowest tool that will get into some really tight spaces. It is not as robust as the earlier examples so it should only be used when the operation demands it. Also, because it is so sharp of angle, it is not recommended to remove a lot of material from the face of a part. You are better off doing that with the 80-degree tool
Step 9: Parting
This is the parting tool that will allow you to cut off your part. It is quite narrow so it avoids the chatter of wider cutters. The limitation is the depth that it can cut. This tool can only be used for parts that are 1 1/8" or smaller in diameter. (If your part has a hole in the center, it can handle a larger diameter.) Its design allows you to maintain fairly high rpm's on the spindle so the cut is super clean. If you need to cut off larger OD parts, there is a big Aloris parting tool (final image) that should be perfect for your needs. (If the part is any larger than 3" diameter, you must take the part out of the chuck and use the bandsaw.)
This tool can only be used for plunging straight into a part.
Step 10: Boring/Facing
This tool is used to bore out the ID of a part or to face the part.
Step 11: Outside Threading
You won't believe how nice these tools will cut threads. This tool is for outside threading. Different inserts have different thread pitch capacities. Currently, we have a coarse insert for 8-16 TPI and a fine insert for 12-24 TPI.
Step 12: Inside Threading
This tool is used for cutting internal threads. Use it after the ID has been properly turned with a boring bar. Currently, we have a coarse insert for 8-16 TPI and a fine insert for 12-24 TPI.
Step 13: Different Inserts for Each Toolholder
We have several spare inserts for each toolholder. When the tip breaks or it is worn and doesn't cut efficiently, it's time to either turn the insert around, to expose a fresh cutting surface, or get a replacement. Alert shop staff when there are only two or three inserts left so we can order more.
Step 14: Replacing the Insert
Generally, all the inserts are replaced using a supplied torx wrench. Blow out any chips and insert the wrench all the way into the screw so it doesn't strip out. Use a firm hand to set the screw in place but don't try to over-tighten it. (A small amount of grease on the threads will assure that the screw releases when its time to change inserts.) If the screw begins to strip, replace it right away with another. Note: the parting tool uses a special wrench that is oval shaped. When you set it in the hole and rotate it, it springs the tool holder open so you can slide in a new insert.
Step 15: Good Luck and Have Fun With Our New System.
We hope this new tooling makes your life a whole lot easier. Feel free to use the older-style HSS or carbide tools if they can do the job better for you. Also, you may want to create special form-tooling that is ground to a specific profile that you can't get from the Sandvik tools. We would expect that some jobs may require multiple kinds of tools and that is a most welcome approach. Just give these toolholders a try and feel free to ask Shop Staff any questions you may have.