Plastic Shopping Bag Dispenser

Introduction: Plastic Shopping Bag Dispenser

Hello Instructable colleages my name is Ryan and this is my first instructable. I had some time off and decided to make something for our plastic shopping bags because we had no place to put them after I installed a dishwasher. I tried to photograph every step on this but did not really include the routing or painting due to my wife had the camera at the time. If you want to make this or use this as a guide to make your very own please do so and have fun!!!

Step 1: Material List

I will list everything that I used in the creating of this dispenser. Not all tools are necessary, I just hadn't used some in a while and anytime I get to knock the dust off of one I will.  The materials used were what ever I had laying around from other projects as well as scrap from remodeling our house.

4- 1x4-3/8x20"  stock  (I used white wood cut from 2- 1x10x24")
1- 1/4" sheet of plywood  about 6sq ft
Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
Walnut Stain
Poly Clear Sealer

Table saw           Square                                  Plunge Router         Drill with 1/2",3/8" bit
Miter saw            Compound Square             Router Table            Liquid Nails or Glue
Circular saw      Measuring Tape                  3/16" groove bit        Level
Jig/Skill saw      Chalk Line                             Air Compressor      Different Paint Colors
Jointer/Planer     Clamps                                  Air Nailer                 Small Quality Paintbrush
Power Sander   Fine Finish Sand paper

Step 2: Machine Stock

The first step is to square off the ends of the stock on a planer so it will feed along the fence nice and flat. Then, machine the stock into the actual size of the pieces to be used in the final product.

 This is why I chose to go with 4-3/8" wide boards all around.  I had to use a size that was less than half the size of the stock would be after I finished machining.   The stock I used was over nine inches so I could rip the boards down 4-3/8 and keep the fence there and use it on all sides.  If you don't have that size, just make sure you can leave the fence in the same place for all cuts.

Step 3: Cross Cut the Sides and Top.

Measure how long and how wide you want the box to be.  I went with 9" across the top and 16.75" along the sides.  I didn't take pix of this step because it went so quickly there were no real time.  If you use the miter saw a stop block would be your best friend but mine has no place to put it so I always draw some extra lines to practice on before I get to the actual cut.  Practice makes perfect and always measure twice cut once.

Step 4: Groove the Top and Sides

After you admire the perfect cuts on the box its time to cut out a small groove in the box so you can display some art or some very pretty wood staining.  
   YOU DO NOT GROOVE THE TOP OR BOTTOM ALL THE WAY THROUGH.  If you do you will see the groove at the end which will not be a pretty sight.  What I did was place some 1" masking tape as a start/stop point for the groove bit. (Machine running) I started where I thought the spinning bit would hit the middle of the tape and shut the machine off when I thought it would hit the middle of the end tape.

Make sure you write on the box what sides you want facing out or in and oriented which is the top, bottom, left and right. 

Step 5: Cut Out Back and Front

On the plywood, chalk out the outline of the face and the back.  I wanted to put the face in the groove and have the back be the exact dimension of the box.  I even let it be maybe a 1/16" bigger on the outside on all dimensions and sanded smooth later in finishing.  Too much always beats not enough.

Not pictured was me drawing free hand with a marker, me, my wife and my dog peanut, as well I used the masking tape as a guide for the circle I drew out for the recylcing symbol.  Then just draw your best triangle in the circle and those are the points of the  arrows.   On routing please be careful and do not get lines too close together because you might get tear out when you sand the paint off or tear out from the lines being too close.

Step 6: Making the Top and Bottom Openings

Here is where you can get creative.  I just made a square opening at the top and a mouth shape on the bottom. I tried not to get too crazy fancy on it but you can do what ever you want.  

  Draw the openings and drill with your 1/2" bit at the beginning and ends of where you will cut and have to turn the jig saw the most. 

Step 7: Assemble the Pieces

Using your clamps, square and level make sure everything is nice and neat and go ahead and nail it using your nail gun or hammer and nails.  But nail gun would be way better.   Do not nail the top piece in just yet.

Step 8: Glue Backing/mount Support and Stain

Here I glued some scrap plywood to the inside of the backing and let it cook for a day.  I did this because I want this to last and if anything it will help prevent screw tear out later on down the road. I used my level, marker, and square to find where i would put the screw holes.  I piloted them with the 3/8" bit then went back with another one that would fit over my deck screw head.

Step 9: Stain, Stain, Seal, Sand, Seal, Sand

Just make sure you get every square inch of facial boards coated.  My shop teacher Mr. Watkins always said start in the middle and work your way out.  He's like Chuck Norris of woodworking.

And most importantly if you are going to seal the outside of the box make sure you seal the inside of the box to prevent warping!

Step 10: Hang It Up and Be Proud

After you are happy with the sanding and it has dried a few days hang it up and recylce them trash bags!!!

Please comment!!!

Participated in the
Woodworking Contest

Be the First to Share


    • Pocket-Sized Speed Challenge

      Pocket-Sized Speed Challenge
    • Super-Size Speed Challenge

      Super-Size Speed Challenge
    • Metalworking Contest

      Metalworking Contest