Pocket Rollgoal!

Introduction: Pocket Rollgoal!

Remember Rollgoal, that irritating mini-game from Legend of Zelda: Twilight Princess? In the Fishing Hut? If you do, then you are probably a hardcore gamer, and now you can take that irritation on the road!

This simple game consists of a ball and track, and your "goal" is to "roll" this ball from the start to the end by slowly shifting the board. In Twilight Princess, this is done by balancing the Wiimote. In this game, it takes it to the next level; you're going to need a steady hand to beat this game!

Being pocket size means you can bring it wherever you want. The board also features customizable pieces; you can rearrange them to make whatever track you want, from simple lines to curvy hell.

(Sorry if any pictures are blurry, I could really use a new camera *Wink Wink*)

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Step 1: Materials

The following materials are needed:

1x Altoids tin or similar shaped container
1x pack of cork drink coasters (or another easily manipulated material)
Finishing nails (or pegs of some sort)
1x small ball or marble
Small amounts of cardboard

The following tools are necessary:

Strong Glue (!)
Scissors or Knife (!)
Pen or Pencil
Clamps (or equivalent)
Pliers and/or vice grips (!)
Drill + Small Drill Bit (!) (Optional)
Thumbtack or Pushpin

{Be careful when operating tools marked with (!)}

Step 2: Prepping Your Tin (Start Eating!)

As the title implies, you're gonna have to start eating your mints, and quick!

Once empty, clean out your tin with water, and detach the lid from the core. This can be done with pliers, or a nail, and carefully inserting into the hinges. This step isn't necessary, but it is a lot easier to balance a small ball when you only have to hold one part.

Step 3: The Game Board (1)

The next step will be making your game board.

Start by tracing out the core of your tin onto the coaster. If your pack is similar to mine, the rounded curves will match up perfectly with your tin, making your job a lot easier.

Once traced, you will need to cut out this piece, being extremely careful if you are using a cork-like substance. Repeat this process to get a second piece.

Step 4: Gluing Your Board

(Remember, always follow the instructions stated on your glue, and be careful!)

Lining up your two pieces, carefully glue them together. Use your clamps to hold them together, ensuring they are holding on tight. Gorilla Glue works wonders here, as it will tighten up your pieces, should they be a bit too small for your tin.

Let your Board cure for however long it takes (2-24 hours)

Step 5: The Game Board (2)

Now that your Game Board is twice as thick, it's time to lay out where your pieces will go. To make this game customizable, but still functional, some extreme measuring is necessary.

To begin, first measure out a frame around your board (as shown). Don't make it too close to your edges. My final measurements were around 5mm from around the edges, and the frame was 75mm by 45mm.

Next, separate your this frame into 8 equal parts in grid like formation (as shown). This will be the spaces that hold your track. 8 pieces may not seem like a lot, but keep in mind this is a pocket game.

Finally, from the center of each part, mark a dot that is 5mm away in each direction (as shown). This is where your pins will be going.

Step 6: Making Your Track

This part is going to take the most effort, as it requires some exact measuring.

On a coaster, mark out 8 squares, each 18mm long. Carefully cut these out. These are going to be your straight pieces of track. Carefully match and glue these together and let them cure.

Likewise, cut out 8 more 18mm squares, but this time cut a slight curve into one of the corners. These are going to be your curved pieces of track. Carefully match and glue these pieces together and let them cure.

Last but not least are the Start/Finish lines. To begin, repeat the same formula (4 squares at 18mm). Match and glue these parts together, and keep them separate. These will be modified later on to make them special.

Step 7: The Pegs (best Done While Glue Is Curing)

The pegs are what make this game customizable. As you may have noticed, your game board has spacing of 10mm.

If you have proper pegs, then this step can be ignored. Likewise, small enough finishing nails need not apply.

If your nails are too long like mine, then you will need to bend them into proper increments. Place one end of the nail in your pair of vice grips, and using your pliers, slowly bend the nail until it breaks. This should leave you with two ends, each being approximately 18mm long (see the trend?). Make at least 20 pegs, as each piece requires 2.

(Be careful when doing this).

Step 8: Finishing Your Track

Now that your track pieces have cured, it's time to start pegging them!

First, you need to measure out where your pieces will go. This should be done in accordance to your Board. Your pieces might have expanded during gluing, but try and keep your pegs 10mm apart. You only need to make 2 (as your parts will be rotate-able)

At each marked spot (10mm apart) start a small hole using your trusty pushpin or thumbtack. This is a guide hole for your pegs. Next, using your pliers, carefully dip an end of your peg into some glue (as shown) then drive it into this hole. You should feel a slight shock as you breach the first layer; DON'T GO ANY FARTHER THAN THIS! You only want the peg to be half way through.

Repeat this for each piece, and let them cure.

Step 9: The Game Board (3)

While you're waiting for the glue to cure on your track, you can start putting holes in your board!

Using a drill or a pushpin, carefully put holes in your board where previously marked. I used a 1/16th" drill bit, and it took 5 minutes. Be careful when doing this with a drill; you only need to use a slow speed.

Continue until you have something similar to below.

Step 10: Finishing Touches

Now that your Track pieces have cured, test to make sure they fit into your Board. They should fit with little resistance.

The first thing that should be done is "grooving". While some may appreciate the added difficulty, I believe this game is already way too difficult compared to Twilight Princess. Using your scissors, you're going to want to make a small groove in the center of the piece. You only want to go down about a 32nd of an inch. This will reduce the difficulty slightly, but it'll still be hard to control.

Also, remember your 2 pieces that were to be the Start and Finish? We're going to finish those now. Using a bit of cardboard, carefully glue a small border around 3 of the edges (as shown). This will give you a fair starting and ending point. You can also draw some starting lines to indicate this. Let this cure, and you're done!

If anyone actually manages to beat this, game (with proof), please message me; I'm interested to see if it can be done.

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    5 Discussions


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Ah, rollgoal, so fun, yet so apt to make you tear your hair out.

    you really needed to concentrate, and steady one hand with the other for this one. I was addicted to it lol


    8 years ago on Introduction

    u may want to retake all ure pics cos most if not all are really blurry O_o


    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    Unfortunately, I only have my old camera, and it REALLY sucks...once I get a new one, I will retake all the pictures I can but for now there's nothing I can do.

    Dream Dragon
    Dream Dragon

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    It looks like you have a "fixed Focus" camera, so all you need to do is hold the camera further away. Most of those types of cameras will keep things in focus from 1m to infinity, but it's not ideal for close up or "macro" photography.

    Even so, these cameras CAN be used to produce much better images if you take time.

    Firstly, pick a better back ground, something plain and light coloured.

    Next, mount the camera at the correct distance. A fixed focus Camera may need more than a meter to get the image in focus. If you have a "macro" setting, use it; if you have a "Zoom", use that, instead of moving the camera closer to the subject.

    Make sure there's plenty of light. Daylight is probably best, but if you have to resort to artificial light, get as many sources as you can to minimise shadows. Flash is a last resort, but use it if you have to.

    Finally crop and enlarge the image so that the details you want to show are clear.


    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    Wow that is really helpful, thank you for that!

    I think once I am able to set up a "photography station" (The background you mentioned) I'll try retaking these pictures.

    Unfortunately, my camera is really old and a knockoff brand; It doesn't have a macro setting, the zoom is broken, and it only holds about 15 minutes of charge (Via USB). The best solution is to just buy a new one.

    Thank you for the helpful advice though, and I will definitely use it next time I take pictures.