Introduction: Portable Bike Repair/Maintance Stand
My name Mr K you will never get the last name right so we will go with K if thats Ok.
This simple Bike Stand, Idea came from the need to rebuild several old bikes and to Paint or Powder Coat. I do know about you, but the working on the floor is a method from the past. Get the project up where you can get your hands on it makes everything work so much better.
This project started with a crazy but a must have idea. But had to be very low cost in order to fit into my rebuild budget I priced this job for. I started with an old service light stand which was in the pile to go out to the recycle place. As you will see in the pics. I did not get around to doing any cleaning on this part. (Make use of what you have, Save the Money) The bike mounting bracket is made of old pipe parts from a Suzuki Jeep Roll Bar which was also in the recycle bin. The clamp I am using is from my woodworking side of the house, It was used to hold down material on the shaper. I never like this clamp because it worked backwards to me. You had to push up on the lever to clamp the wood which meant i was moving into the direction of cutting blades on the shaper, but for this Bike Stand it is doing a good job. More info in later discussion.
As you get into this project and decide you wont to build one for your self, fell free to contact me by e-mail email@example.com
Step 1: Tools / Materials
You will need:
Drill Drill Press is best but hand drill will work fine
Hacksaw Power metal cut off saw is easier
Grinder either 4" angle grinder or Grinder Stand with wire wheel on one end
Wire Welder Stick welder will work just fine
The materials may vary according to what you have on hand. I will give more details on what I used later. I have a bad habit of building a little heavier and stronger than what is required for a project, according to my sons.
Old Service Light Stand
Bolts and nuts to fit
Strip of rubber
Small Scraps of metal
Paint or Powder
Step 2: Welder
This just a quick shot of the welders and plasma cutter I am using. and just a quick plug for Harbor Freight tools which so far are working very well for my shop. Pardon my mess, end of project OK
Step 3: Cutting Pipe and Prep Work
This pipe was cut from the RED pipe you saw back in the first pic line up.
The two 7" pipes seen here is 1 1/2"
The 6" pipe is 1 1/4"
Washer is 1 1/2" used as a cap off to this section
Pipe size does not really mater just as long as the 7" pipe shown on the right will slide down over your light stand upright post
and the 7" pipe shown left will slide over the 6" pipe (you do however want these 2 pipes to be fairly close in fit to keep from having extra movement between them.
During this cutting process is a great time to remove any sharp edges with grinder or file and to remove any old paint or rust.
Step 4: Weld Phase 1
This is the section that will slide down over your light stand upright post
The pipe in my hand left is the 1 1/4" which has been notched out for a better welding surface
On the top of the pipe right side of pic is were you will weld the 1 1/2" Washer. This will great a cap for the light post to stop and the hole in the washer is just to keep trash from being trapped it the pipe keeping it from setting all the way down on the light stand
On the other end of this section that fits on the light stand Drill a hole through the pipe which will be used to secure this to the stand. I used a 1/4" bit for this. at this point place the pipe section on the stand and bore a matching hole through the stand pole and use a bolt to secure the two parts together. This step will secure the part from rotating on the the lamp stand. You will understand more later.
Step 5: Clamping Section
Special Notes âIn going back over my picks I have found out that I left out some detail shots on steps. you will have to refer to other pics at times to see what I be describing. Sorry about that
Clamping unit. This is made to the 1 1/2" x 7" pipe that was the pipe on the left in the first section.
Were the clamp mounts you will have to cut a piece of flat metal to the size of the base of your clamp and weld it to the top of this pipe, You can see the location in this pic. I use the plate rather than welding the clamp in place It will make it possible to change clamp if and when I find something that works better. I set the clamp up with 4 bolts to hold clamp to the plate.
In front of the clamp in the pic. you will have a piece of 1 1/4"x 4" long split into 2 halfs which makes up the bar clamp for the bike. The bottom section is welded to the pipe with a scrap of metal welded underneath to the half round for more support
in pic 4 of this section you will see two bolts in the bottom of this unit. These are for adjusting the angle you wish the bike to be in when doing you work. I used 2 3/8 x 1" bolt and nut. Drilled 2 holes 3/8 through my pipe section and welded the nuts to the pipe. This making a great way to secure this section from turning after setting my working angle (one bolt would probably work but I just like 2 for more back up
In pic 4 you will see 2 bolt used in the same way on the clamp side of the top half of the bar mount. Here I am using them for adjusters to accommodate different size bike frames.
Pic 5 adjustable link from the clamp to the 1/2 round piece, used to adjust the tension of the clamp to bike. The bolt hear looks a little long for the job, but I found it worked grate as a hold point when applying the clamp (like a squeeze point for my hand)
I must apologize for my welds. they are bad looking. I was getting in a hurry to finish up to get the rack in use. After the bike project is over I will be going back and fixing this mess. but for now they will just have to do.
Step 6: Clean Up and Prep
Time to clean up and prep for you finish.
This is the only pic that showed the extra support piece under the halfround
Go back over your work clean the slag off the welds
Set up for your choice of finish to be done.
Step 7: Finish
I chose to Powder Coat my mount, just because I have the power unit in the shop and also for speed, when it cools down it is ready to be used say 45 min and not days for paint to dry with the rain today.
Step 8: Assembly
I thank you can follow the pictures on this part.
pic 3 when you set up the clamp jaws. Let the pipe halves overlap each other kinda like your teeth do in front. this way it will allow the the closer to tighten up on the smaller bike frames. This will have to adjusted according to the bike frame you are working with. Inside the this clamp area you will need a rubber liner so as not to scratch your bike finish.
Step 9: Put It to WORK
I hope you enjoy your Bike Rack. you should get many years of use out of it. I thank my total cost in this project was around $5.00
Remember it is not trash till you sweep it out the door. and use the K I S S method
PS It has taken me longer to do this presentation than it took me for the complete project from Idea to working time