A powerful, long lasting wooden Bluetooth Speaker, this is my attempt at a homemade Bluetooth Speaker.
Step 1: Research
Do some research! Find out what types are available to you and their advantages and disadvantages. I chose to completely make my speaker out of 11mm birch face ply-wood due to it's rigidity, price and availability.
Step 2: Plans
This is the stage where you mark up your plans onto your wood for cutting. Make sure you draw a line straight down through the middle to mark where the holes will be drilled at a later stage.
Step 3: Cutting
I'd recommend using a universal wood saw for the straight parts of the speaker and a coping saw for the circular edges if you don't have access to a bandsaw. Fortunately I had access to a bandsaw so I saved myself some time.
Step 4: Routing
I then used a table router to create a rebate for the long centre piece of wood to fit into, this not only creates a neater joint but will be much stronger due to the increased contact area. Both the front and rear panels should have a rebate on the inside of them. Set your table router up to create a rebate slightly deeper than the thickness of your wood so you have room for error. The rebate should be roughly half the thickness of the center and rear panels.
Step 5: Soaking
Fill a bucket up with the hottest water you can then proceed to place the long piece of wood into the bucket at a slight angle. Repeat this process until the wood will be able to wrap around the curved rebates.
If this sounds like an awful lot of work which it is use a bandsaw and create a jig so the bandsaw cuts into the top of the wood leaving about 1mm before cutting completely though the wood, the end result should look like a comb. Once this is complete use the hot water method to bend the wood however you now have the challenge of not snapping the wood. This is still the easiest way to achieve the curve in my opinion.
Step 6: Drilling
To create the holes for the speaker I used a drill press and an 8cm diameter holesaw, I used the drill press to ensure that the holes were perpendicular to the face plate. I'd recommend keeping the bits left in the holesaw for when finishes are applied, these will protect the speakers. I'd also recommend using at least two clamps to prevent the face plate from moving whilst being drilled
Step 7: Gluing
I used PVA glue to glue my speaker together, if you can use water resistant glue, this will allow you to steam or heat the wood with hot water to ease the flexing of the wood. At this point I'd recommend only gluing one straight edge of the face plate to the main length of wood. Glue the face plate to the main length roughly half way along the main piece. If you create a jig for 90 degree gluing the process will be quicker, easier and more effective.Make sure to use lots of clamps to effectively use the jig.
Step 8: Speaker Mounting
To mount the speakers I used 8 10mm counter-sunk self tapping screws, I cut these screws down to 6mm to prevent any damage of the surface of the front plate. I cut the screws in a plastic bag so I didn't lose them.
Step 9: Gluing Part 2
Repeat what you did when you glued the front piece on with the rear piece, make sure that the front and rear plates are connected to exactly the same length of wood ensuring the front are rear pieces are symmetrical. If the pieces are perfectly in line and square then the bent wood should be at a 90 degree angle to the front and rear pieces. Make sure to use the jig you've already created to keep the project square.
Step 10: Electronics
This is the stage where you test and install all of your electronics. I'd recommend wiring and testing your electronics before you install them into the speaker, this will allow you to diagnose and repair any faults more easily. I glued my electronics in with hot glue, this will prevent them from vibrating and shaking around.
Step 11: That's It. Seal It Up!
Seal it all up, I used PVA again. You might notice the lack of speakers in these pictures, unfortunately I didn't take any pictures when I clamped the speaker but it was almost exactly the same as the pictures. You shouldn't need to use the jig anymore, just apply glue in the rebates, position the wood where you want it to be and clamp it there.
Step 12: Finishing
I used a router with a flush trim bit to remove the protruding segments, this will reduce the amount of sanding required it also reduces the amount of excess material removed.
Step 13: Now I Need Something From You
As you can probably tell this is my first instructable; please comment and tell me on things which I could improve on/ do better next time.
I hope your projects succeed
FF97 made it!