Portable Folding Longboard




Love riding your longboard skateboard but don't like carrying and traveling with it with because of the awkward and large size? Keep reading and I'll show you how to cut your longboard's size in half for traveling while keeping its nice and large wheel base for riding. I was able to convert my 42" board into 24" for travel, easily fitting into a carry-on suitcase or duffel bag!

Things you'll need:

Complete longboard setup

2 door hinges + screws

miter saw/table saw/ hand saw/ jig saw

Step 1: Chopping Block Time

I know, I know, cutting your board in half seems like heresy, but we'll make it work! depending on your truck size and geometry, try and figure out at which point you'll need to cut the board. If you cut the board directly halfway between the trucks, when you fold it together, the trucks are going to hit each other. I chose a little off center about 3/5's and made the cut there, that way when the board is folded, the trucks don't hit each other and folds flatter.

I made the cut using a miter saw which was fairly easy, but you could also get away with a hand saw, jig saw, or table saw, just work within your comfort zone!

Step 2: Adding the Hinges

I used standard door hinges from Home Depot, nothing too fancy, I did a stress calculation and figured 2 hinges should hold an adult's weight just fine.

When you lay the hinges flat, you'll notice that the hinge bumps out, I used a Dremel with a sanding drum attachment and made a corresponding pit inside the board to fit this bump so that the hinge could lay flat on the board. If you don't have a Dremel, chisels will work just fine, make sure not to go too deep!

I then fastened the hinges to the board with wood screws that came with the hinges. You'll notice they are too long and come out the other side. I used my Dremel again with a cut off wheel attachment to cut off the screws to board level.

Step 3: Moment of Truth

Sure stress calculations gives confidence, but double checking doesn't hurt with proof loading. I noticed when I stood on the board that it bent a little too much, this was due to a slight gap, I added a piece of 1/8" plywood with epoxy to remove this unwanted bending, worked like a charm!

A little time with the Dremel sanding drum and you can barely notice the spacer.

Step 4: Staining, Coating, and Gripping

I then stained the board with a water based mohagony stain by Minwax I believe.

A couple coast of polyurethane to protect the board from water and dirt, then finally a few strips of grip tape and it's time for some riding!

Step 5: Results

The board works extremely well. I was a little worried about the longevity of the board and hinges but I've been riding it daily for almost 5 months now with little problems. Good luck, feel free to ask me any questions!



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    14 Discussions


    2 years ago

    Wow, thats actually amazing, I would like to figure out how to add more strength so it could be used a little more rough, in other words so I could use it :)

    1 reply
    Matt CarlxxxCHICAGOxxx

    Reply 2 years ago

    I was thinking maybe a bolt lock under the board might give it some extra strength, but you're right, I wouldn't wanna jump on this board from any significant height!


    2 years ago

    I think you are pushing your luck! The hinges may be fine but the screws and board not so much.

    1 reply
    Matt Carlmrygula

    Reply 2 years ago

    I'm not quite sure to be honest, it's a pretty complex problem that I've been having trouble working out the stresses by hand (I'm studying engineering so that helps) but I might try using a finite element analysis program to see if I can accurately model the stress inside the board and on the 16 screws while under load. Thanks for your input!

    Carpenter Guy

    2 years ago

    Hmmm. If the whole thing was made of metal and the hinges were welded on, it might not need that spacer in between the two sides of the board!

    Anyway, this looks awesome, thanks for sharing! You have my vote!

    1 reply