Preserve the Beauty of Raw or Rusted Steel & Iron Surfaces

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Intro: Preserve the Beauty of Raw or Rusted Steel & Iron Surfaces

I see many ibles made with black pipe here but rarely do they mention any coatings to prevent rusting. I also often build with rusty items where I need to cover the rust so it won't rub of on clothes etc. but don't want to lose the beauty of the patina. An architect once told me he used linseed oil to preserve rusted iron outdoors. I tried it but the damned stuff never fully dries! I could use polyurethane but the oxidation will continue underneath and it will eventually flake off. I've tried "rust stabilizers" but they turn the rust black so it loses it's color. I finally got turned on to a product from an old timer in a paint store I would probably never have found on my own.

Step 1: Penetrol

He recommended a product called Penetrol normally used as a paint additive to improve flow and adhesion that also seals and stops rust. It can be used alone as a base coat on bare metal and will fix the rust while preserving the appearance. The finish will be darker than dry rust but similar to rust sprayed with water or oil and can be top coated with a polyurethane for a more durable finish.

http://www.flood.com/paint-additive-solutions/pro...

Be sure to open and view the rest of this ible before sending me questions. ;-)

Step 2: Obey the Bot

(I originally made this a single page post since it's basically just a product recommendation but "the Bot" didn't like that. It yanked the post and sent me a note to mend my ways. So... I chopped it up and added some numbered steps. Hope it stays put this time. ;-)

1) I usually wipe down the piece with paint thinner to remove excess dirt and oil but since the product is oil based you don't need to remove every last trace. For a rusty surface I'll usually clean it real good with water and a soft brush or cloth to get any dirt off. In the case of the steel vanity tops shown in the intro I left one out in the rain for a week to cover some scratches and wanted to preserve the light layer of rust. I just rinsed it off with a hose on saw horses, let it dry in the sun then

2) applied the Penetrol with a brush. Even on the perfectly flat surface it didn't leave brush marks.

3) I always spray on a mat polyurethane top coat or two for a smooth finish and the finished piece looks completely natural.

I've used this method for several years now including on towel bars hung with damp towels everyday and for a countertop under my bathroom sink. So far they look just like the day I finished on all my projects.

Step 3: Answers to FAQs

The reason I use the polyurethane top coat(s) is that the Penetrol is a linseed oil product, and as such, is not very hard or durable. The polyurethane is a good, stable, long-lasting finish that won't easily wear off.

I've also been getting a lot of questions about clear, un-rusted metal. I wrote this about protecting and preserving the rust for it's looks. But if you don't have rust, you can skip the penetrol and just go straight to the polyurethane.

I AM NOT A PAINT EXPERT!

I'm just a guy who, by chatting with an old time paint guy, stumbled onto a way to stabilize and preserve rust without hiding it. please don't ask me how to repaint your car or patio furniture. I don't know. This post is only about preserving the beauty of rust while stabilizing it to make a rusty object useable and not so messy.

INDUSTRIAL STRENGTH POLY
A table top, specially a work table or dinning table, is a pretty tough environment. It's prone to lots of impacts and abrasion. At the least, you should use several coats of polyurethane. You might also talk to someone at a Sherwin Williams store about SherClear. It's a HD industrial clear coating. It's pricey ($100/gal?) but incredibly tough. It's made for ships and equipment but a friend uses it to coat canvas floorcloths and says it lasts for years in high traffic areas and under tables and chairs.

OIL vs. WATER BASED POLY

If you already have an oil base coat like Penetrol, you can only use an oil based product on top of it. Remember that oil floats on water. You can use oil OVER an water based coating but not the other way around. The reason is that oil based coatings don't set up completely hard but remain somewhat flexible. Water based products set up hard and inflexible and will eventually flake and peel on top of oil based coatings.

4 People Made This Project!

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266 Discussions

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RustySailor

Question 5 weeks ago on Step 2

I’m in the process of experimenting with metal sinks and wondered about your feedback as to how long the sink would last before needing to be resealed here’s what I’m making them out of see pics

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BrianJewettRustySailor

Answer 5 weeks ago

The non-rusted countertop above has been in daily use in our bathroom for 8 years and looks like the day it went in. However, the pre-rusted one had soap left on it by a young house guest that compromised the surface. A sink will get a lot more exposure to soap and water, but if you're careful not to let any soap sit on the surface and don't use any harsh cleansers i'd think it would last for years.

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UpJackCreekFarm

Question 2 months ago on Step 1

I am planning on covering an interior wall with rusted corrugated metal roofing I salvaged from an old barn. I love the rusty look and want to keep it but don’t want the metal to continue to deteriorate. Would you use this method for this and this particular wall is in a location that will not be rubbed against so should I also cover it with poly or is it not neessary? I absolutely do not want a glossy finish.

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SusanL183

4 months ago on Introduction

I made this sculpture out of railroad spikes about a year ago and put two coats of penetrol on top of the Rusted railroad spikes and had then set the sculpture outside in North Florida with this very corrosive environment and the penetrol has completely preserved the metal . unbelievable! I threw in a couple pics of more rusty metal pieces preserved with Penetrol....that stuff works!
Off 'Da Chain Metalworx....Panama City Beach Florida

IMG_20171225_072917_811 (1).jpgIMG_20171225_072917_817 (1).jpgreceived_588923234776705.jpeg
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BrianJewettSusanL183

Reply 4 months ago

Thanks Susan! I get frequent questions about outdoor durability but all my applications have been indoors.

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SusanE74

Question 5 months ago on Introduction

Please tell me the brand of poly that works over the penetrol. The paint stores will not recommend one. Thank you.

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SusanE74SusanE74

Answer 5 months ago

We painted bare steel panels with Penetrol to seal and stop rust. Works great but leaves a pretty high shine. I just used Zar Ultra oil-based polyurethane Clear Antique Flat over the penetrol (did not sand). Turned it into a beautiful flat finish. Very happy with it. It seems durable. Only time will tell.

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BrianJewettSusanE74

Answer 5 months ago

Any oil based paint or coating will work over another oil based coating.

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chiwahua

Question 6 months ago on Introduction

Nice project!

SherClear seems to be acrylic and not polyurethane.

Did you mean SherThane?

We have a patinaed steel countertop to seal with a matte clear but not sure what to use. Thanks!

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BrianJewettchiwahua

Answer 5 months ago

I didn't know SherClear was acrylic. don't use acrylics (water based) over oil based coatings.

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allpawsahead

1 year ago

My new outdoor table is of a painted metal. I have used Penetrol in the past which is great but it leaves a shiny finish. I was hoping there is a product that produces a dull finish. Is there such a product? Many thanks.

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FlorinJallpawsahead

Reply 6 months ago

You can also change the gloss level with very fine steel wool. Pass over the table in many different directions, without pressing too hard. The microscopic scratches left behind will not be enough to damage the coating, or to make it non-transparent, but will take away the gloss.

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BrianJewettallpawsahead

Reply 1 year ago

If your table is new and painted, there's no need for Penetrol. You can change the gloss level with a clear top coat of polyurethane in flat or satin finish.

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pdeflora

9 months ago

Love the instructable. Wish I had found it years ago when I was doing way more with rusted metal. Quick question about the poly though, do you use brush on, wipe on, or spray on? I use a thinned wipe on poly very frequently with my wood working projects but worry that the mineral spirits will ruin the penetrol.

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RyanE83

10 months ago

I have a fully patinaed light gauge sheet steel tray from an old scale. Well let's call it fully rusted. I want to preserve the patina however it is extremely rough in texture. The item will remain outdoors subjected very close proximity of growth media. plants, and water.

Suggestions in products and procedure?

Tray.jpg
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LoraM4

1 year ago

I've just installed an old unfinished iron sink in my kitchen and am trying to figure out how to keep the rust down....beeswax? lanolin? olive oil? Any ideas?

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BrianJewettLoraM4

Reply 1 year ago

I've never seen or heard of a raw, uncoated cast iron sink. It's a very tough environment which is why they're always enameled. I'd suspect it might be one from a factory that never got coated or maybe someone stripped the glass enamel from it? Anyway, I wouldn't think of using it in my own kitchen. Any coating I could think of would probably need very frequent reapplication.

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MachelM1

1 year ago

hi there. I was wondering if this product will work on tin sheet panels on an antique steamer trunk. It is covered in rust and I'd like to preserve the color but stop the rusting process.