Pvc Hand Drill




About: computoman.blogspot.com Bytesize articles instead of a trilogy in one post.

Unless you mail order it, you can not find a hand drill. To make things more fun. Replacement bit grips are not in-expensive. But I did find one and proceeded from there. This project came about for a need to do work late at night without having to wake people up and for a need to save on electricity. Most of what I make is not heavy duty craftsmanship. so this drill is perfect for the job. Hope it does well for you.

Step 1: What You Need:

1 - 2 foot section of 1/2 inch pvc pipe. (B, D, F, H, i) (1 - 1 inch and 4 - 4 inch)
4  - 1/2 inch elbows pvc  (C, E, G,  P) (ignore the cursor in C, I forgot to move the mouse)
1 - 1/2 inch cap pvc  (J)
1 - 1 inch tee pvc with the center part threaded.   (M)
1 - 1 inch extension pvc  (K)
1 - 1 inch cap for extension pvc  (L)
1 - 1 inch screw in cap for tee pvc (N)
1  - Drill chuck replacement and 2 inch mounting bolt.  (I used a 1/2 inch chuck) (A, O)

level flat surface

Step 2: What to Do: Part 1.

Take the 2 foot section and cut 5 pieces. Some will be left over.  You may have to adjust for piece B.

1 - 1 inch section
4 - 4 inch sections Good to make these the same length so there is no confusion when making the main section.

(Hint: it might be a good idea to dry fit (not glue) all the parts together so you have a feel for how it all goes together and the parts are the right size.)

Step 3: What to Do: Part 2.

Glue D to C.
Glue E to F.
Glue H and I to P.
Let dry.

Step 4: What to Do: Part 3.

Now slide M over F.
Glue F to G.
Make sure that E and G are in alignment. If you set this section on the tabke the bottoms of E and G should be flat and not crooked. ( Be sure to swivel M out of the way.)

M should swivel freely and NOT be glued, so be careful.

Let dry.

Step 5: What to Do: Part 4.

Now the fun starts.

Dry fit (do not glue)  D to E and H to G. Set it on the table and make sure everything is square.C and P should be in exact opposite directions to each other. You should have sort of an upside down U, This will give you a feel of how it goes together before gluing these parts.  Once you feel comfortable, unhook D from E and H from G. Now go back and glue D to E and H to G going through the same squaring process. Do this quickly before the glue drys.

Let dry.

Step 6: What to Do: Part 5.

Slide K over I so it swivels freely..
Slide J onto I until it is snug. (Do NOT glue!) K should not be able to come off, but still swivel freely. Dry fit L over K so that it swivels freely but is fairly snug against J. J should be hidden at this point. Now undo L over K.  Glue L to K, but make sure there is not too much glue that K and L do not get glued to I or J. It should swivel freely.

Let Dry.

Step 7: What to Do: Part 6.

Your almost done.

Slide the unit over the edge of the table  so that C is resting on the table and the open end is facing up. take O and put the bolt head into C. It should fit snugly, Use the rubber mallet to the head seats. If not you will have to glue it in here. If so make sure it is square and in alignment with the rest of the unit. Eventually you will want to glue the bolt in there. Need to make sure all works and is square so you drill a straight hole.Slide B over O and into C so it is snug., but do not glue it. Screw A on to O until it is tight and snug. Make sure everything is square. Screw N into M for a secret compartment.

Step 8: Your Done!

Go ahead and use your new non-powered drill.  No more batteries!!!! (One caveat:I will admit for heavy duty jobs, you will need a regular drill.)

Step 9: The Kitchen?

A tribute to "Good eats" and Alton Brown.



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    8 Discussions


    8 years ago on Introduction

    Nicely done. How is it holding up? One might be able to make something similar out of threaded metal pipe and fittings if one uses loctite on the pipe joints to keep them from loosening. Maybe I'll try that. I've been using the drill I built quite a bit, sometimes it might be nice to have two.

    2 replies

    Cool. I wanted to use pipe, but it was not cost effective. Your Idea gave me an idea for a drill press. So simple I should of thought of it before. When I hear the word fork. I know they must either be a programmer or an open source advocate..


    You could have made one easily out of pipe, but it would have been more expensive (at least for me) to that then just to mail order one. Was thinking about making a drill press version, but no incentive right now. Thanx for asking, for light duty work it has been doing just fine.


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Nice work! I've had done a "fork" of your drill:

    The substantial differences:

    brown "cold water" pvc tube, 25mm diameter (1/4') and a diferent design. There is two possible points to put a grip for "heavy-work" (with brad point drill bits). It uses a 3/8 chuck from Bosch


    8 years ago on Introduction

    Hey, FYI, I've seen hand drills at Sears. I also got a pair of them off ebay for $10. This is a clever way to go about making a lightweight hand drill, certainly.

    1 reply

    Thanx for your comment. My particular Sears did not have one even though the catalog shows one, but I have to been to the local Sears. hardware specialty store. Also I found out that Ace is suppose to have one. It is closer by so, I may go by and check it out. By building something you understand a whole lot better how it works. It has been a conversation piece for sure.


    8 years ago on Introduction

    Nicely done.... Ive always heard these called a "brace" or "brace and bit" but then to my grandad a drill was the metal fluted piece that did the work, the drill motor was what made the drill spin.. try walking into the tool store and asking for a drill motor nowAdays.....

    1 reply

    Reply 8 years ago on Introduction

    Thanx for the kind words. Now that I think about it, I remember hearing it called that also. So long ago. Your right about asking for it in stores. It is a shame as they still have manual tools for everything else.