RG Unicorn Gundam LED Mod

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Introduction: RG Unicorn Gundam LED Mod

Seeing the recently released 1:1 scale Unicorn gundam statue in japan would be really cool, and a bit expensive.

So here's an instructable on how you can build your own light up unicorn gundam albeit on a smaller scale(1:144).

Do note that doing this mod will make the kit lose its transformation gimmick. So it sill be stuck in this form. Though articulation is unaffected so it can still do various poses.

Step 1: Materials/tools Needed

NOTE: This project has the potential to break your kit. You will also need some soldering skills since we'll be soldering tiny LEDs.

Aside from the RG Unicorn Gundam kit, we'll be using 0603 SMD LEDs for this project. This type of LED is just the right size to fit in the spaces around the kit.

We'll also use 30awg enamel coated wire/magnet wire. This is just the same as regular copper wires albeit this has thinner insulation making wiring easier.

I used a single 100 ohm resistor so that I can power the circuit using any 5v usb power source.

We'll also need soldering iron and lead to connect the LEDs, resistors and the wires together.

We'll also need a pin vice drill to make holes on the kit where the wires will pass through.

Step 2: Legs

To make this project easier, we're going to do this by sections.

The leg area has plenty of space to accommodate the wiring. Unfortunately, there isn't enough space to keep the transformation gimmick. Either I keep it in Unicorn mode or NT-D mode. I decided to display this in its NT-D mode.
One of the hardest section of the kit was the upper thigh area where the psychoframe wraps around the thigh area. I had to use 4 LEDs there, one on each side for proper illumination.

Step 3: Waist

Pretty straightforward here. I'm utilizing the areas designed for the transformation gimmick as much as I can to help hide the wiring. Again plenty of space around these parts to work through the wiring.

Step 4: Head

Good thing that the eye piece is molded in clear plastic. so all we need to do is put an LED behind the clear piece and light it up.

Step 5: Chest

The hard part about the chest area is that this is where wires from other areas pass through. So I had to take into consideration all the sections as I build this. What I did is I passed the wires through the chest first before putting the armor pieces.Good thing there's just enough space to pass the wires through.

The backpack has plenty of space for LED and wiring. I didn't bother to adding LEDs to the thrusters since it would require a lot of work, smaller LEDs that I currently don't have, and the light from the LEDs shine through the thrusters anyway.

Step 6: Arms

I think the forearms was the hardest part of this project. There was just no space there to pass the wires through, plus the pieces are designed to lock into each other, assembling only in a certain order. To address the issue, I made grooves on the pegs so that they can still be inserted even with the wire in place.

The elbow joints was also another headache, which was solved by scribing a groove onto the joint to make some space.

Step 7: Put It All Together

Once all sections of the kit are done, it's now time to put them all together.

Back in the chest area I already left some wires that are supposed to connect to the specific sections.

Using an old wall clock I had, I built a display base that can house the usb power bank.

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    2 Discussions

    why size drill bits should i use for the pin vice?

    Odaiba was so fun! If you ever get a chance to go see the big one you should go, there's so much cool stuff to do there. :)