Introduction: The Rabbit Stick Hunter
Rabbit sticks, or throwing sticks in a general way, are one of the first and still one of the finest balistic hunting weapons ever. They are very easy to make, cheap, silent, powerful, and very effective. These weapons, often not more than a light curved wooden branch, are especially popular in the western and midwestern United States, but did you know they were already a favorite rig in Ancient Egypt?
Throwing sticks can not be used only for hunting small game such as rabbits and ground squirrels (Native American style), but also for waterfowl such as ducks and geese (Ancient Egyptian style) or small dogs (Urban City Survivor style). Just kidding!
Excuse my poor english, btw, I need some more exercise to get sedated well.
Step 1: Rabbit Stick Versus Boomerang?
The difference between rabbit stick and boomerang?
If you want to hunt in a survival way, the most primitive projectile is a pebble. Problem, a pebble has only a limited field of efficiency, namely its own diameter. To be effective with a pebble, you need to be really good driver. Would you like to increase this field, you can either take a larger pebble or multiple stones (the principle of a shotgun).
You can also take a stick, and preferably a curved rod. By throwing this stick in the right way, he will not only cover a much larger field will as the pebble, but will be much deadlier. In fact, those 'rabbit sticks' were the first intelligent projectiles of the first hunters, the bow did its appearance long after.
Unlike boomerangs, rabbit sticks are not built to return. On the contrary, they flie in a straight line, and are often much heavier because they are built to inflict damage.
Boomerangs are much more intelligent built, with wings that are profiled to ensure that the projectile returns to the thrower. They are also much lighter and therefore more fragile. The method of throwing is also different. Boomerangs are thrown almost vertically, rabbit sticks horizontally like a frisbee.
See the rabbit stick as the ancestor of the boomerang.
Step 2: Making a Primitive Rabbit Stick
All you need is a curved branch, preferably a hard wood such as oak. No beech, that breaks too easily. I used a few branches that I got from a friend. No idea about the type of wood, they were in any case quite heavy.
In principle, the sticks are ready to use like that, yet I told you it's a very simple weapon? Cut the branch off to the desired length. Throw him off a few times and observe how well he behaves. He must turn quickly around its axis and fly straight. Find the right balance, remove material away, feel the power. Each branch is different. The more closely you work, the more grateful you will be during the hunt yourself.
Just for the pleasure I took the bark off with my pocket knife and took me a few hours of smooth to sand it sweet. To complete the picture, I rubbed the stick with oil. Again, no functional utility, I thought, but it promotes the grip. Without oil, the stick was slippery and he slid easily out of my hand. With oil, he seemed much better to sit in the hand. Paradoxical, but true.
Maximum range: about 40m (43 yards).
Step 3: Getting the Higher Level
Inspired by images of traditional Hopi rabbit sticks, I decided to build one more advanced version. Hopi sticks, for example, are built a lot more aerodynamic than basic survival throwing sticks. They are usually made from a naturally curved branch, often oak, and they have a flattened, teardrop-shaped cross-section. As a result, they have a much greater range, and they are a lot more accurate than their primitive predecessors.
Since I had no curved hardwood branch itself, I decided to build one. Out of a discarded wooden birch pallet I recuperated a couple of boards that I carefully sawed at 45 °. The four strips were then glued together at an angle of 135 ° and then profiled with pocket knife, plane, sandpaper and a bit of patience. Natural oil finished the job.
- length no handle side: 30cm (outer edge to top tip)
- length handle side: 36cm (top tip to edge)
- width: 5cm
- thickness: 2.5cm
- weight: 450 gr
Step 4: 60 Meter Range!!! (65 Yards)
As with all hunting it is necessarily good to know your prey. Knowledge is power. Rabbits graze at dusk, for example. Find their dens, hide from the wind, get a free throw zone etc. A good hunter is a smart hunter. Good material is useless if there is no knowledge behind it. The advantage is, hunger is a good school. You'd be surprised how quickly you learn with a growling stomach.
To use your stick, throw it like a frisbee to a particular object. Horizontal, move from your pelvis. Look where he falls down and memorize the distance according to the power that you used to sway him away. Practice, practice, practice. A trained hunter is a good hunter. The better trained you are, the more you will have to eat if it comes down to survival.
With this stick I achieved a range of more than 60 meters (65 yards), with an almost straight flight.
With a bit practice I achieved a quite good accuracy, on an optimum target distance (the maximum distance of getting the beer bottle target almost all the time) of about 30m.
I was not expecting this result at all, to be honest. This turns out to be a large underestimated weapon, since no one is talking about it. But I must say, it is great fun to throw, and I believe it is deadly accurate in the skilled hand.
Once again, I have become more convinced that our ancestors were correct...
I hope you enjoyed this Ible, and that you will use your power wisely.
Fourth Prize in the