Here's my first Instructable, A waterproof rechargeable led Light suitable for work or great for camping. It's pretty simple to make with a few materials and parts, most of which i purchased off Ebay. Any kid who picks this up and turns it on instantly becomes Darth vader waving it around like a idiot :)
The Light is made of a Piece of PVC pipe with 5 metres of strip LED's wound around it, inside it contains 11 'mini" C Size rechargeable batteries, a pipe cap seals one end, while at the other the cap contains a waterproof on/off switch, recharging is done by 2 points on the body ..... more will be explained ..... so read on.
Step 1: Gathering the Parts
First off lets look at materials required:
Length of 30mm nominal bore PVC pipe 470mm long is finished length, but buy a metre anyway
A 5metre roll of cool white waterproof LED's - do a ebay search - about $18AU
2 x 30mm PVC end caps
1 x Waterproof switch
11 x 1.2v mini C size rechargeable batteries with TABS - again on ebay - 12pack for around $25AU
about 400mm of clear plastic hose that will fit neat in PVC, i think it's 25mm bore size
plus a few bits of wire, joiners, a couple of 5mm PEEL type pop rivets
beside this you will need some way of recharging the batteries. I use the NiCad charger from my model helicopter.
Step 2: Winding the LED's
okay .... drill a small hole just big enough for the wires on the end of your roll of LED's at least 150mm from one end, it will be trimmed off later to finished size. Give the PVC a light sand to clean it up, and try not to touch the area where the LED's will stick.
Insert the wires into the small hole and start winding the LED's around the PVC working away from the end you just drilled, the full 5m roll should end up about 300mm long on the PVC. Once you get one loop around the PVC it's easy to keep it butted up against the previous loop, try not too touch the adhesive backing on the LED's after you peel the paper off as this reduces it's stickability :)
Apply a bit of sealant around the hole to make it waterproof, tape it down while the sealant cures makes it sit flater
Trim the PVC at the Other end but leave about 30mm to allow end cap to go on
I actually taped the ends down and left it for a day while i completed another part of the build.
You should end up with something like my photos show
Step 3: Making the Battery Pack
On my first attempt i just soldered all the battery tabs together, this worked ok, but was very flimsy to handle and broke the connections a few times.
So a better way is to trim off the tab and just leave enough to solder a short U shaped piece of wire to it
I did this to every positive connection, except one ... onto this i soldered a longer length (about 300mm originally) for the connection. then i soldered a negative onto these short wires until i ended up with a long snake of batteries, another long wire was soldered to the last negative end, this wire has to be able to reach past all the others and out the end of the PVC so make it about 500mm. I joined each battery to the next with a bit of electrical tape just to stop things moving around
Tested the batteries with a multimeter to make sure there were no broken connections and gave it a charge as well
Next i took the clear water hose and split it length ways and tucked the batteries into the hose with the long negative wire sitting in the split part of the tube, pushed the batteries as close together as possible and they stay in place in the hose
Step 4: Inserting Battery Pack
This step is pretty easy and you can see the project starting to take shape ..
First off trim the battery pack hose to just longer than the batteries and measure that length for future reference.
Now just make sure the negative wire is sitting in the cut in the hose and push the batteries into the PVC from the end furthest from the LED wires, the wires should go in first! if your tube and batteries are the same size as mine it should slide in firmly
when it's right in you should have 4 wires hanging out the end ..... 2 from the LED and 2 from the battery pack
As a quick test you can join the wires to test the light ..... negative to negative, positive to positive and be surprised with the amount of light it puts out!
The EndCap can now go on the non wire end, i didn't glue them, just applied a bit of vasaline to form a seal and pushed it on hard incase i ever need to get it apart, you could use a bit of sealant if you like as you could break that seal if need be, but PVC glue would stick it forever!
Step 5: Installing the Charging Points
I used the heads of pop rivets to attach alligator clips from my charger as they are not sharp and pretty easy to do. but if you can think of a better method than go for it!
First .... take that measurement you measured in the last step add about 10mm and measure down from the end without the wires and mark the pvc
Next drill 2 5mm holes for the rivets, i made mine 90 degrees apart but you can go 180 if you like, just make sure there is room between them that the rivets can't touch inside.
NOTE: i used 5mm peel rivets cause i had them handy and they are a good fit over the wire terminals, but you could use whatever you had at hand.
next crimp a terminal onto both negatives so they are joined together and crimp a terminal onto the BATTERY positive and another length of wire to reach out the tube.
Now the fun part .... because the pop rivet holes are about 150mm up inside the tube it's difficult to line them up and push a pop rivet thru, so i came up with this method ...
using something stiff like a knitting needle use a small piece of tape to fasten this to the terminal NOT THE WIRES use the knitting needle to guide the terminal up the tube to the hole and pop rivet it in place give the needle a pull and it should come out leaving the tape attached to the terminal. complete for the other wire, but take a bit of care as you could short out on the on the first pop rivet
you should now be left with just 2 wires hanging out the end, one goes to the LED's the other to the battery by way of a pop rivet point.
I also scratched a + and - near the pop rivets to make it easy for charging
Once the pop rivets are in they should prevent the battery pack from sliding down the tube
Step 6: Finishing Off
Nearly there now!
Last step is to fit the switch and end cap
Drill a hole in the center of the end cap to suit your switch, i actually took the end cap to jaycar and picked a switch to suit, make sure the switch you choose is waterproof if you intend using it outside
Fasten the switch in the end cap, attach the 2 wires (one from positive LED's the other from positive Battery via the pop rivet)
Push the endcap on and Voila your Done!
Hope you've enjoyed this Instructable and enjoy the light if you make one, if you have any questions about getting parts etc. i can point you to the same or similar items i purchased off ebay, but a simple search should find the items, mine were purchased from sellers in china with no problems.
The only thing i feel i need to do with mine is to add some type of hook for hanging it up and a sheild to protect the push button because if you prop it up it can switch off, but otherwise very happy with how it worked out for me
Step 7: Adding a Shield
Ok, had a few people asking about a handle and a reflector, so had a bit of a go at them today, my reflector isn't a true reflector as such, but just a shield to direct the light. As with the rest of the instructable i'm trying to keep it simple ..... so here goes.
The shield is made from a larger piece of PVC that is slit to just clip over the light. First off i measured around the light and made 2 marks about 190 to 200 degrees apart, just enough to go past centre.
Transferred these marks to the larger PVC and slit it up the guts with my oscillating saw using a piece of angle as a guide to keep it straight.
gave the cut faces a bit of a cleanup with sandpaper and the jobs done!! it just pushes over the leds with minimal force. REMEMBER this ain't a reflector just a shield
Step 8: Adding a Handle
To make a versatile handle i went for a press stud on the cap end and 2 pieces of self adhesive velcro stuck back to back.
screwed the male half of the press stud to the end cap.
Stuck the velcro back to back
Found the center of the length and peened a press stud thru a hole
Done! .... works a treat, i like the idea of been able to wrap it around a pole or branch and it's very secure
Last photo shows the light inside a very dark caravan, just to give a idea of how much light it throws out, Flash was turned off for the photo. with the shield in place you can get a better idea of the light output without it shining at the camera.