This is a lamp i built for my wife to use for beside the bed, it replaces the mess of wires from lamps and phone chargers ect and prevented your from dragging the table out to get at the plug.
This light has replaced the room light most of the time as it has two 50w halogen lamps in it and its quite brite.
it also provides a convenient power point for her laptop when working from the bed ( it happens)
I have built a second unit for my side but i used a cool vintage light i found that seamed more appropriate with Edison lamps so its not as bright.
Things you could change
This can be built with all new or mostly recycled material depending on how hard you hunt for parts.
- I considered painting it with the rust-oleum hammered metal spray paint but decided against it.
- dimmer could be replaced with wemo switch for wifi programmable light to come on in the morning
- entire orientation could be changed to top mounted devices.
- add led decora blank and change to three gang swtich box for built in night light.
Possibilities are endless here and as everything is replaceable the unit should pretty much last forever.
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Step 1: Material List
The lamp was made out of material found between lowes and a habitat for humanity restore ( like value village but more hardware. )
Light unit. - ( feel free to get creative here) my dual halogen head was found for 2$ at the restore. You could used led, or you could find an old retro unit for edison lamps as i did for my second unit.
Note the port size is 1/2" here for all my threaded fittings, 3/4 inch fittings cost more and we don't need anything that big for this project.
I used an crouse hinds box that i got from the restore cheap, they are not cheap to go buy see retail price below.
you can substitute this for a cheaper alternative, (these are quite often found in the garbage attached to old halogen motion sensor lights)
This is a standard outdoor weatherproof box dual gang for our dimmer and plug.
mine was stainless steel, i had it left over from something else. my switch box and light box had 1/2" threads so that's what i used.
You will also need a lock nut to make sure your box wont turn on its own .
Legs ( rigid conduit elbow )
I got these at an electrical wholesaler locally. Most home depots ect don't carry these types of parts.
Feet (stainless steel plug)
These were in a bucket at the restore as well, stainless is overkill, any 1/2 rigid plug will work.
Strain Relief Connector
This also came from the electrical wholesaler, however lowes and home depot both have variations of these, a plastic one would work as well.
Dimmer and Plug
i used a leviton 15A usb plug as it has a good usb charge current for my power sucking galaxy phone.
Dimmer was just a cheap one, mine was not led compatible.
Don't forget your cover plate.
The wire i stole from a old 14 gauge extension cord. i stripped off enough to wire the switch and lamp up as well.
electrical marrets i found in the junk drawer.
Step 2: Assembly
First I threaded the foot onto the dual gang switch box fist followed by the strain relief connector on the back in the center hole.
you can go left or right depending on preference, i wanted the switch on the right side for the bed so my foot was on the left with the wires coming out the right side hole for the nipple.
Wire the box. ( not going into a lot of detail here on this, basic wiring skills and safety apply here )
i inserted the cord into the back and tightened the connector before stripping off the jacket and wiring the plug, i jumped the wire from the plug to the power wire for the dimmer and ran a neutral out of the plug to the light.
Your dimmer wire could be different as some dimmers require a neutral, always check the instructions that came with the device.
Assemble light box.
- i added a right side leg and a front leg for support ( had it on the back but it was front tipsy)
- You may have to add lock nuts onto your 90 connectors ( feet ) as the vertical position may not be tight necessarily my heavy duty box i had no problem with its deep threads.
- i used a screw driver inserted into the end to torq them to the desired position however you may need the locknut here.
- thread the nipple into your left side hole, tighten with pliers, thread locknut onto other end as you will need it to tighten onto the box.
- feed light wires from box into nipple and carefully tighten ( when your between tight and the box position vertically you can tighten the locknut to secure the box from moving. i had already wired the box and has the lamp wires sticking out so it was easier to feed wires in and tighten however the unit could be completely assembled and then wired its up to you.
I actually went back after and added a bit of tilt to the switch and plug box to make it easier to plug and un-plug things.
- i ran a ground wire even though my unit is metal and the dual gang box was already bonded to cord ground.
- tie your hot and neutral into the light pigtails
- here i threaded in the plugs (feet) and felts to not scratch the night stands.
- install bulbs
its a good idea to test the unit here before putting cover plate on.
- if your wiring checked out attach the light to your octagon box and install your plug and switch cover plate
i may have missed a few steps if so im sorry but this is a general idea. I did not copy this off the etsy guy thats selling something similar to this i found that after i had built mine.
As always be safe and don't play with live power.
Participated in the
Lamps and Lighting Contest 2016