Easy and functional - learn how to make a recycled lamp!
Step 1: Line 'em Up
To get started, grab your two sticks, (let's call the larger one stick A and the smaller one stick B,) and line them up against each other at a 100 degree angle 12cm from one end. Mark that point in the shape of a circle that has a slightly larger diameter than stick B, approximately 2cm x 1.5cm (sizes could vary depending on diameter of stick B.
With both stick A and stick B lined up together in the position that they will be presented as, make a mark 1cm x 1cm on stick B directly above the base of stick A. This will be for the cord of the lamp to go through. This ensures that the centre of mass is equalised and makes it more difficult for the lamp to fall over because the torque leaning backwards is counteracted by the weight of the lamp shade later on.
Step 2: Drill a Hole: Part 1
Drill a hole in stick A but make sure that you drill it at the same angle that stick B would slot into it at (at 100 degrees). Once you've done that just sand it down a little bit in order to make sure that none of the splintered wood (if any) remains.
Step 3: Drill a Hole: Part 2
Now drill the hole in stick B but once again you will need to drill it on an angle so that when the lamp stand is assembled this particular hole will go directly vertically down. Sand the hole down to ensure a smooth finish after drilling.
Step 4: Sand Them Down
Place stick A at a 60 degree angle to a flat surface and mark a line parallel to the surface and sand it down to that point. This way, you will be guaranteed an even and flat surface when you go to glue your stick down to your base.
When it comes to stick B, simply sand down both ends for the sole purpose of avoiding splintered wood.
Step 5: Assembling the Base
Collect all of your 15cm x 15cm wooden planks and stack on top of one another and arrange them in a layered fashion to your liking, as we will be leaving the exterior of the planks exposed. Then remove the top and bottom boards and save them for later - we will be dealing with the messy middle area first.
Mark along the sides of the boards parallel to the gradient of stick A, with the top end of stick A to protrude out from the centre of the top board. Then mark circles 3.5cm x 3cm which should be slightly bigger than your stick(again, sizes could vary depending on how large the diameter of your stick A is,) on the boards one at a time so that if you were to carve them out, they would create a tunnel slanting slightly to one side (hint: this is stick A to later slot into).
Take your top board and where with previous boards we had marked a circle with a slightly larger diameter than stick A, we will now mark a circle in the centre of this board with a diameter that is exactly the same as stick A so that it should fit very snugly.
Step 6: Drill a Hole (Reprise)
Drill the marked holes on the boards one at a time and then restack them so they form a slanted hole and like the first hole that we drilled, you'll need to sand these down as well. If you find that some holes are too small or slightly distorted then you can also sand them to your desired shape.
Step 7: Glue
Slide stick A into the holes so that it is slanted at 60 degrees and parallel to a flat surface. Adjust the size of the holes further if necessary and then remove the stick and begin to glue the panels together. Glue the stick in at the mid-point of the process, after you've finished gluing the 8th board down. Then proceed gluing the rest of the boards by sliding it down and along stick A. After you've finished gluing all of the boards down (save for the top and bottom which we had set aside,) fill any gaps between the boards and the stick with wood filler.
Once you've done that, glue your stack to the last board that we had set aside and slide the top board that we had set aside down the stick. If you find that you can't slide it down the stick, then sand the hole bigger ever so slightly in increments until it does. Then proceed to glue it down.
Step 8: Sand It Down (again)
Sand down your base, particularly the corners so that it forms a rounded edge and appears more refined but be careful not to sand it down too much otherwise you might expose the bottom of stick A!
Step 9: Cut the Glass
Slice the bottom of the glass bottle off - the less you remove the better as this will ensure a longer lampshade so that it fully cover your lightbulb and doesn't leave any of it exposed.
Step 10: Slicing the Cord
Because the edges of the glass bottle are so jagged and sharp, we need to line it with a protective layer. So take the iPhone charger cord and snip of one end to expose the wiring. Then take your box cutter or any kind of sharp knife and slice it down the middle. Once you've finished, remove the inner wiring from the white protective layer.
Step 11: Lining the Glass
Using a hot glue gun, line the white rubber around the jagged edges of the bottle (carefully) and snip off any excess once you've covered the circumference of the bottle.
Step 12: ASSEMBLE: Part 1
Push the cord through the hole in stick B and then again down the neck of the bottle. Make sure you have enough excess to be able to easily wire the lightbulb.
Step 13: Wiring the Lightbulb
Take a screwdriver and unscrew the nails in the lightbulb connector. Take your wires and attach them around the nails and then screw the nails back down and then screw in your lightbulb.
Step 14: ASSEMBLE: Part 2
Slot stick B into the hole you previously made on stick A and wind the cord around the intersection to stabilise it.
Step 15: The Finale
And then you're done!! The moment you've been waiting for, go ahead and plug in your cord and you've got yourself a $1 lamp!