here's the problem, pedicab drivers like to hit things!
at least it seems so, they bend a fork every week. and the 1 1/8 threadless forks are 100$ each to replace
I'm going to show you how to repair a fork using a ten dollar common threaded fork
buy these things
a 1 inch threaded fork with side pull brake posts from Pyramid. use 24 or 26 inch forks as appropriate but I'd suggest 26" as the wheels, tires and such are cheaper. you can also salvage any fork from junked bikes.
get these things,
Step 1: Cut Out the Old Fork
remove the lower race first! very important not to get weld spatter on that.
the fork is factory assembled by sleeving the fork legs and a collar onto the steering shaft,
first cut away the old legs like pic 1
the sleeve weld is at the bottom in pic 2, attack that with the angle and die grinders to separate the inner and outer parts
Step 2: Slice the Top Out Just at the Weld
now that you have the bottom weld ground out with the die grinder,
carefully cut around the top of the sleeve, you want to just cut the outer layer below the bearing race but since the steering shaft is a solid bar, a few nicks won't hurt it's strength.
then slice with the angle grinder through the outer sleeve the long way so that you may split it out
Step 3: Disassembled
pry off the old piece of sleeving and you are left with this. clean up the steer shaft and throw away the legs. move onto the brand new forks you just bought.
Step 4: Cut Away the New Forks
grind out the welds around the bottom, there are none around the top. just cut off the steer tube one inch above the race land.
then use a hacksaw blade or a sawsall to slice the inner steer tube and plier it out
Step 5: Mating the Forks
slide the old steer shaft into the new legs. the biggest problem is getting the legs aligned properly from side to side at this point. so use the grinder and play with it until its straight, tack only in center.
Step 6: Use a Level
stand the fork up on your (leveled) bench. use the level to make sure the steer tube is straight up and down from side to side, tack in the side 90 to your last weld and recheck,
last chance to make changes, looks good to the level and the eyeball? great,
now weld it around the entire thing, top and bottom, this is really not for strength, this just keeps the forks from falling off the fork tube, the strength is from the factory sleeved bit and it's connection to the fork legs.
fore and aft angle is meaningless unless it is extremely off. then it causes handling issues. you can mostly ignore it
Step 7: Reassemble to Finish
clean up all the weld spatter and paint your welds.
add the race and reassemble into the frame.
congrats! you spent about 2 hours and saved 90$ and two weeks shipping.