Replacing the LED on a Niterider MiNewt Mini USB Bike Light




Introduction: Replacing the LED on a Niterider MiNewt Mini USB Bike Light

This outlines the disassembly of the MiNewt Mini USB bike light, upgrade of the existing LED to an SSC P7 LED, and reassembly.

1. Thermal grease (about £1 for a small tube from ebay - you won't need much)
2. SSC P4 emitter (about £3 from ebay - you only need the emitter, not the star)
3. Superglue

1. Spanner and or a vice
2. Soldering iron
3. Philips screwdriver

Step 1: Remove the Cover

Place the rear of the light unit in a wrench (or a vice), and attach another to the front of the unit.  While facing the unit front on, rotate the front about 2mm clockwise.  This will be enough to break the glue holding it fast, and the front will release.

Remove the reflector to gain access to the internals.

Step 2: Remove the PCB

Remove the two screws holding the printed circuit board with the LED.

Step 3:

Once unscrewed, the PCB and LED assembly will easily come free.  

Use the soldering iron to remove the original emitter.

Step 4:

There are four 'connectors' on the emitter.  One of these connectors has a notch in it to indicate the polarity.  Align the 'notch' side of the emitter to the side of the PCB with the black wire (NOT the red wire).  Solder this to the PCB.

Test the light by turning it on for a brief second.  

The light should not be turned on for more than a few seconds without it being connected to a heatsink - or it will burn out.

Step 5:

Apply some thermal grease to the back of the emitter through the large hole in the back of the PCB.  

Also apply the thermal grease to the back of the heat sink/light assembly. 

Step 6:

Screw the PCB to the back of the light assembly.

Step 7:

Return the reflector to the casing.  

Ensure the o-ring that sits between the front and rear parts of the case has been placed again on the rear of the light assembly.

Step 8:

Apply a drop of superglue to each of the three connection points on the back of the light, and replace the front light assembly - twisting it to lock it in place.

Step 9:

After the superglue has set - the light is ready to use.

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    2 Discussions


    2 years ago

    Quite right....its a p4 in there rather than a p7. Had a quick look at the p7 emitter and it's quite a bit might be lucky and get it to fit...but might turn a 20 minute job into a 4 hour job. :) even if it fitted though I don't think I would sacrifice the long battery life for more lumens...if I need more light I use a different unit and a bigger battery. Good luck!


    2 years ago

    Hi! Thanks for the excellent Instructable! I look forward to following it when the

    SSC P4 emitter I ordered arrives. I'm curious, though. You initially state that we'll upgrade to a SSC P7, then specify an SSC P4. If we were to upgrade to a P7, would that increase light output or reduce battery life? Thanks again!