Reviving an Old Electric Screwdriver




Introduction: Reviving an Old Electric Screwdriver

Digging in the drawer of things "to fix" I found this old screwdriver that  only was working with the power being plugged in, so these are the steps to change the batteries and "revive" this useful tool.

Revivir un destornillador viejo
Rebuscando en el cajón de “ya arreglaré” encontré este destornillador viejo que no me daba potencia y solo funcionaba estando enchufado, así que estos son los pasos para cambiar las baterías y “revivirlo”.

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Step 1: Open It!

The first is to drop all the screws to get inside. Beware with the red one, which goes under a small cover.

Lo primero es soltar todos los tornillos para poder acceder al interior. Cuidado con el de color rojo, que va debajo de una pequeña  tapa.

Step 2: Taking Off Things

Here is the guts of our screwdriver, as we can see, is not  "high tech", on the contrary, is a very simple circuit. We can see the switch (No. 1), the battery pack that will be replaced (No. 2) and the small charging circuit (No. 3). Care to cut the wires from the switch and the load circuit, if the cut as long as possible you will not to replace them later.

Aquí tenemos las tripas de nuestro destornillador, como podemos ver, no es que sea “alta tecnología”, al contrario, es un circuito muy sencillo. Tenemos el interruptor ( nº 1), el pack de baterías que vamos a sustituir (Nº 2) y el pequeño circuito de carga (Nº 3). Cuidado al cortar los cables del interruptor y del circuito de carga, si los cortamos lo más largos posible, no tendremos que sustituirlos más adelante.

Step 3: What to Change

The old pack is 4 AA batteries of NiCd, with 600mAh, welded together. We're going to replace them with 4 AAA NiMh,with 1200 mAh, as the voltage is the same for the old battery (1.2 V) , so we will continue using the old charger. Also going to put it in a battery holder just  to avoid soldering.

El antiguo pack de baterías son 4 pilas AA de NiCd, de 600 mAh, soldadas entre sí, nosotros lo vamos a sustituirlas por 4 AAA de NiMh y con una carga de 1200 mAh, el voltaje es el mismo por batería (1,2V), así que seguiremos usando el cargador viejo. También las vamos a poner en un portapilas más que nada para no tener que soldarlas.

Step 4: Adapting the Space

As our new pack is slightly larger than the old, we will have to remove the old bracket (In yellow), I've done it with a dremel tool smoothly.

Como nuestro nuevo pack es ligeramente más grande que el antiguo, tendremos que quitar el antiguo soporte (señalado en amarillo), Yo lo he hecho con una dremel sin problemas.

Step 5: All in His Place

That's how everything is already in place, adjusted and ready to weld.

Así es como queda ya todo en su sitio, ajustado  y listo para soldar.

Step 6: Welding

And with every welded, just join the red wires to the red and blacks with blacks ... Anyway, basic electricity.

Y con todo soldado, solo unimos los cables rojos  con los rojos y los negros con los negros… En fin, electricidad básica.

Step 7: Finishing

And once set the screws, we got it ready to work! . Total cost of change less than $5. About an hour of work.

Y una vez puestos los tornillos, lo tenemos listo para funcionar. Coste total del cambio menos de 4 €. Una hora de trabajo aproximadamente.

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    3 Discussions


    7 years ago on Introduction

    Changing the battery chemistry without changing the charging circuit can be dangerous. Although, NiCad and NiMh are fairly similar in charging characteristics.

    To be on the safe side, don't charge for more than 14hrs (at 0.1C rate max) in case the trickle charge limiter doesnt apply anymore, and I'd keep a close eye on it to ensure it doesn't warm up (catch fire & explode..).


    Reply 7 years ago on Introduction

    Thanks quatch, the charger I have say for NiCd and NiMh, anyway I never charge for more than 8 hours.