Spring may not arrive as soon as I thought in Colorado, winter is still going strong and the winds are really high. I decide to crochet myself a hooded pullover made from 100% Paton's wool yarn. Though it is crochet and looks light, this is an incredibly durable heavy weight garment and is perfect for extremely cold days without sacrificing on looks. Don't know about you, but I'm not a fan of poofy down jackets that make me look like a marshmallow. My kids love to feel and hug my sweater because IT IS SO FLUFFY.
Also, this is an easy to intermediate level pullover making project. Beginners need to know basic crocheting stitches such as: Chains, slip stitch, single crochet and double crochet. That's it!
Step 1: Tools You'll Need:
Things you'll need:
9-10 Paton's Classic Wool, Roving Variety in beige
Size 1/9 (5.50mm) crochet hook
Suede cording, for drawstrings
Pattern paper, or Printing paper
About the yarn:
I chose Paton's classic wool because the texture is extremely soft, warm and fluffy. This will make a great sweater because it is thick. Also, i prefer the roving variety because the yarn is not corded or twisted, creating a nice, soft look to look and touch. It may get a little tricky at times because the fibres are slightly loose and can get tangled during yarning over. My best tip to avoid this, is to make sure that the tension is loose all the time.
Step 2: Ribbed Crochet Pattern
The whole pullover is made up of Ribbed Stitch. Ribbing is form by alternating slip stitch and single crochet, from each row to another. Because it is in a vertical pattern, we'll be working from side to side, instead of down to up which is usually common for crochet and knitted items.
So for example to crochet a Ribbed stitch:
First Chain 20 loops +1 chain
First row: Single crochet to the end + 1 Chain (Flip!)
Second row: Slip stitch to the end +1 Chain (Flip!)
Third row: Single crochet to the end +1 Chain (Flip!)
The loops on top of the single crochet stitches create this pretty bridges that gets obvious as you crochet further. The bridges are what creates the ribbed look :)
Step 3: Making the Pattern (Torso)
I made my patterns using my regular long sleeve top that I owned. This is a fairly accurate way to create a top that will fit you, especially if you do not have any experience in dress making.
(Torso Back Panel)
Using a trace pattern paper or printing paper tape together (like what I did), I lay my top over it and smoothen it flat removing as much wrinkles as possible. I folded the arms in and tuck as much around the natural shoulder seams. Pin it down with pins so it doesn't move when you trace. Trace around the top with a pencil, keeping your lines straight as possible. Add 1cm around the traced line as your seam allowance.
Cut around your seam allowance. And you have your back panel.
(Torso Front Panel)
Repeat the process again, exactly the same as your back panel.
Only this time, i'm cutting out a deep V neckline. To do so, i measured 4 inches down the armpit as my underbust line. Mark the centre of the underbust line. Make a 1 inch gap on the mark.
Measure and mark 2 inches from the shoulder line, and from that mark, draw a straight diagonal line down all th way down to the underbust marl. Repeat on the other side. You now should have a deep V neck.
Step 4: Making the Pattern (Sleeves)
Lay the sleeves of your long sleeved top over the paper. Remove any wrinkles that might crinkle your fabric.Pin it down with pins. The shoulder area might be a little tricky, so pin it down along the natural seam of the shoulder. Trace your sleeves with a pencil. When you reach the shoulder seam, lift and invert the blouse and carefully follow the lines of the pins.
Once you complete your drawing, remove the pins. Draw a 1cm seam allowance around your pattern. Then using a scissor, cut along the seam allowance.
Step 5: Making the Pattern (Hoodie)
For the hoodie, I used my husband's hoodie jacket because I like how big and billowy it is, unlike a women's hoodie which tends to be small and slide off the head easily. Simpy lay the hoodie flat over the paper, trace around it, adding 1 cm allowance and then cut.
Step 6: Laying Out All the Patterns Before Crocheting
Here is the pattern for all the parts of the sweater: the front panel, back panel, sleeve and hoodie.
Step 7: Start Crocheting (Sleeves)
Before we begin crocheting away, I just want to explain why the chains are shorter than the actual pattern. The reason why i chain less than the actual length of the pattern is because IT WILL STRETCH. Even if we single crochet the same number on the loop, it is just completely natural for the work to stretch about an inch or two as we go along.
Begin by crocheting 85 chains. Remember, because this is a vertical pattern rib, we are working sideways. Also, I personally prefer to work from the middle of the pattern because it helps with symmetry. After chaining 85 chains, immediately chain a row of single crochet into the chain loops all the way to the end.
Once you reach the end, ADD +1 Chain Then FLIP.
After flipping, complete a whole row of Slip stitch until the end.
Once you reached the end, ADD +1 Chain Then Flip.
Continue crocheting this pattern until you reached your first curve.
When you reached the curve, instead of starting your row with a single crochet, you want to Minus 2 Chains before beginning your Sc.
As you can see from the picture, you would need to minus out two chains after 1 row of Single crochet. Depending on the thickness of your yarn, you will need to either do 2 or 1 single crochet bridge. If your yarn is thick like mine, just do 1 single crochet bridge.
Step 8: Neaten Your Edges
After you have completed the first halve of your sleeves, neaten your edges by stitching a slip stitch around around the curve. This will give you a cleaner look, also it will help to sew everything in place later when we sew everything together.
Repeat on the other halve of the sleeves right after you neaten your edges.
Begin your first row with a slip stitch.
Repeat until your sleeves are complete.
Step 9: Crocheting Your Hoodie
For the hoodie, begin crocheting 45 chains. Then repeat your ribbed pattern throughout the hoodie. As you reach the curve, remember to minus out 2 chains per rib. This will create a nice convex slope. Neaten your edges with a slip stitch.
Repeat on the other side. Except this time, you would need to start on the shorter curve side. This is because we want the pattern to go coherently, the mini arrow shape should point downwards on the left and right panel of the hoodie.
Step 10: Attaching the Two Hoodie Panels Together
Once you completed both left and right side of the hoodie panel, it is time to sew them together. Using a slip stitch, crochet the two panels together. Make sure that the seams are on the bad side.
Step 11: Crocheting the Front Panel
Begin crocheting the front panel on the right side of the torso, this will make sure the downward arrowhead patterns of the the ribbed stitch goes nicely with the sleeves and hoodie.
Crochet 3 bridges of slip stitch and single crochet (6 rows in total). When you reach the curve, chain +2 on the first curve row. Finish the row with SS and SC.
The add 17 chains when you are beginning the shoulder seam. Continue with SS and SC.
Follow the pattern accordingly till you finish the panel.
Neaten your edges with the Slip Stitch when you complete.
Step 12: Crocheting the Back Panel
Crocheting the back panel is similar to the front panel, except it has less curves so it is easier.
Step 13: Viewing Your Completed Panels
Before I stitch all the panels into one complete pullover, I like to lay them out to see if they are symmetrical.
Step 14: Stitching All the Panels Together
To stitch or sew all your panels together, lay the bad side facing you. Measure your yarn long enough to stitch the sides of your torso panel, and crochet the seams like you would a basting stitch on a sewing machine. The yarn should go over and sew into the slip stitch on every neaten edges. Tie a dead knot when you complete with seaming your panels and tuck any tails into the crochet stitches.
(To stitch the sleeves)
Stitching the sleeves is a little tricky because it goes around and have a hard time staying in place. To help with the issue, I tie a short yarn on the top and bottom part of the shoulder seams, that way they don't move nor stretch while I crochet the seams together and they won't get wonky.
Continue to stitch the seams all together until your sweater is complete.
Step 15: Refine the Edges & Shell Stitch Border
Even though technically your pullover is complete, it doesn't look clean and refine.To clean up our work, I crochet the edges with slip stitch on any raw edges, then adding scallop edging to make it look decorative (because hey..it's crochet after all ;) This completed optional, if your prefer a less feminine look.
Step 16: Adding Drawstrings
I added a suede corded drawstrings around the neckline to add a nice touch. It is completely optional but it looks super cute, so why not?
Step 17: Time to Enjoy Snow Day!
This pullover is incredibly warm! Snow doesn't have much affect on 100% wool. Wool is tolerant of rain and snow but I advise you not to roll around in snow in it because it is not weatherproof.
To wash, soak your wool pullover in cool water with mild or delicate detergent. Wash only when necessary. After washing, lay it flat on a towel, roll it gently to transfer water unto towel, then lay flat to dry on another dry towel.
Whatever you do:
DO NOT USE HOT WATER.
DO NOT USE A TUMBLE DRYER.
DO NOT WRING.
All this will alter the natural fibers of wool and will either stretch it, shrink it or worst, turn to felt!
So other than that, good luck and stay warm!