Introduction: Robotic Cloaking Device
Hello friends! Have you ever wanted to hide in plain sight? Well, I made the robot for you! With this "Robotic Cloaking Device," you can have the option of literally never being seen for the rest of your existence!
The "Robotic Cloaking Device" allows you to retain your privacy with the help of a shoulder-mounted retractable curtain. Using a blend of science and camouflage fabric, you WILL. NOT. BE. SEEN.
Do NOT use for evil.
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Step 1: Gather Your Materials
- 1 x Solderless Breadboard
- 2 x L293NE Motor Driver
- 4 x DC motors
- 1 x Arduino Uno
- 1 x Momentary SPST
- 3 x 9v batteries
- 3 x 9v battery clip connectors
- Wire for soldering
- Hot Glue Gun
- 9' x 4' inconspicuously colored fabric
- Duct Tape
- Gaffer's Tape
- 2 x 20" flat steel bar
- 1 x 8" flat steel bar
- 2 x 48" steel rod
- 2 x 30" steel rod
- 2 x 15.25" steel rod
- 1 x 30.5" steel rod
- 8 x split key rings
- Laser-Cut Acrylic Pieces (.dxf file attached)
- 2 x plastic buckles
- Cable Ties
- Machine screws
- Fishing Line
- Double Sided Tape
Step 2: Welding
In this step, you will be welding the base structure of the retractable curtain. This will consist of the harness and the curtain ring.
Welding your harness:
1. Bend your pieces of 20" flat steel bar at an 85-degree angle, 7 inches from the ends. This will create the two structural pieces that go over your shoulders.
2. Take your remaining piece of 8" flat steel bar, and weld the ends to the bottoms of the pieces you just bent. (NOTE: Since your metal will not be bent in half, make sure, your 8" piece gets welded to the longer sides of your bent steel. This way, the shorter 7" ends will hang over your shoulders. )
Welding the curtain ring:
1. Bend your two 48" pieces of steel rod in a semi-circle and connect them at the ends to form a full circle.
2. In order to add extra support to the circle, we will be welding a cross section—Take your 30.5" steel rod and weld it across the diameter of the circle. Your additional 15.25" pieces of steel rod can be welding to add cross support to the circle (see image).
Connecting the two pieces:
1. Bend your remaining steel rods at a 90-degree angle an inch from the ends.
2. Weld the bent ends of the rods to each of the shoulder pieces. Before you weld, mark out the placement of the rods by putting the harness piece over your shoulders and manually placing the rods. Make sure the rods extend straight up.
Step 3: Put Together the Harness
In this step, you will be making and attaching the straps to the metal harness you just welded. The three main parts consist of the "V" piece that connects your metal shoulder pieces, the strap that will go around your waist, and the intersecting "T" piece that connect the "V" Piece to your waist strap.
The straps will be made by taking two strips of gaffer's tape and folding it onto itself. Gaffer's tape is very forgiving, so length can be both added and cut away as needed.
The buckle of the waistband will sit right below your ribs at the midpoint between your sternum and the middle of your upper arm.
1. Put on your metal shoulder piece (built in the previous step) and measure the length from the back corner of the shoulder piece to the midpoint you just found. (When making this strap, be sure to add about 6" of extra strap. This way, you'll be able to adjust the fit of the harness. )
2. Lace one end of the buckle through the end of the strap you just cut. Tape the other end of the buckle to the back of the metal harness (see picture).
3. Measure the length from the other corner of your harness to where the buckle ends. (Do NOT add an extra 6" of strap to this end, as you will not be able to adjust this side of the buckle).
4. Attach one end of this strap to the metal harness and the other to your buckle. Now you should have an adjustable waistband
The "V" Piece:
The "V" piece is the part of the strap that connects your shoulder mounts to your waistband.
1. Measure the length from the ends of the shoulder mounts to the middle of your chest. Cut two pieces of strap this length.
2. Attach the straps to the ends of the shoulder mount and tape them together to form a "V" shape.
3. Take 6" of strap and attach it to the bottom of your "V" shape. This extra piece will act as the adjustment end of your buckle.
4. Thread the adjustable end of your buckle through the strap at the end of the "V" piece.
The "T" Piece:
Now you should have your "V" strap and your waistband. The final step is to connect them using the "T" piece.
1. Mark your waistband at the spot right below your sternum.
2. Take a piece of gaffer's tape and wrap it around the spot you just marked. This will make a strap that forks off of the waistband.
3. Take the non-adjustable end of your buckle and attach it to the end of this "T" piece (see image).
Step 4: Make the Curtain
Making the Curtain:
1. Cut three pieces of 3' x 4' fabric.
2. Using your hot glue gun (or sewing if you're, you know, an overachiever), connect the fabric along the 3' edges to create a tube.
Attaching the Key Rings:
The key rings will attach your curtain to the steel curtain rod you welded.
1. Equally, space 8 key rings along the top edge of the curtain.
2. To keep your fabric from fraying, put a square of duct tape on the inside of your fabric, and cut a hole in the tape-backed fabric.
3. Thread your key rings through the holes.
Step 5: Attach the Motors
Attach Your Motor to the Curtain Ring:
1. Take your laser cut piece marked "Motor Base" in the .dxf file.
2. Place your DC motor at the center of the base piece, and drill two holes to attach the motor to the acrylic. This can be done using your machine screws.
3. Using the sets of two stacked holes in the acrylic, attach the motor base to the steel curtain rod using cable ties.
4. On either side of the DC motor, drill two holes about 1/4" below the curtain rod. These holes should be right along the outside of your DC motor. Take two longer machine screws, and attach them to your acrylic through these holes. (NOTE: These two machine screws will help stabilize the motor to keep it from twisting on the curtain rod).
5. Take your acrylic piece marked "Stabilizer" in the .dxf file, and place it in between the machine screws you just attached in the previous step and the metal curtain rod. Tape the acrylic in place (see picture).
Put Together Your Motor Reel:
1. Measure out 3' 6" of fishing line.
2. Tie one end of the fishing line to the two holes in your motor reel piece (see picture).
3. Using two machine screws, sandwich the smaller circle piece between your two larger circles.
4. Attach your reel to your motor.
Step 6: Wiring
Attach Your Arduino and Breadboard:
1. Using double-sided tape, attach your solderless breadboard and your Arduino to the middle of the piece marked "Arduino Base Board" in the .dxf file.
2. Secure your Arduino baseboard to the cross piece in the middle of the curtain ring using cable ties.
1. Wire everything according to the diagram.
Step 7: Finishing Touches
Attach the curtain to the steel curtain rod using the key rings you placed earlier.
In order to move the curtain up and down, you will need to create a channel on the outside of your curtain for the fishing line to run through.
To create this channel, cut three pieces of 2" x 4" fabric and space them out in a column beneath one of the motors. Glue both sides of the fabric strips to the curtain, and run the fishing line from the motor reel through the channel (see image).
Cut a small circle at the bottom of the curtain beneath your column of fabric strips and tie the end of the fishing line to the curtain.
Repeat this process for the remaining three motors.
Download the code onto your Arduino and have fun hiding!
The push button can be used to change directions of the motors, moving the curtain up or down.
Enjoy your invisibility!!