Blast by your rivals with this rocket powered snowboard! Designed to be epoxied or glued directly onto the board. It uses 24mm motors without ejection charges (I'm not heavy so 24 mm is fine but you might need to move u an engine size if you weigh a lot). Print at 75-100% infill for obvious reasons. I'll use my schools printer to make a test version by next weekend.
I'm not responsible for anything that earns the reader a darwin award. Please exercise caution during use and only use this on uphills or flat sections with people who are aware of what you are doing. When using the booster stunts are not recommended and will result in injury. ALWAYS WEAR HELMETS AND OTHER PROTECTIVE GEAR. When you slip and flip headfirst into a wall or some ice you will be forever grateful for your helmet.
Here's the link to the YouMagine page and STL: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/rocket-board-att...
Respect the hill, your fellow boarders and yourself and you will be okay.
This has been entered in the 3D printing contest so any votes are welcome.
NOTE: WIFI was slow at the time I made this ible so I'll upload pictures later
Step 1: Designing From Scratch. the Base
You will need a 3d design software. For the original I used SketchUp and 123D Design I used a mix of both softwares but you can use only one or the other. Pick a size that will fit on the back of your board easily, I picked 10x17 cm with a height of about 1 cm but you can use other sizes. Make the shape more aesthetic, aerodynamic and lightweight (it will be right behind your boot binding so it aerodynamics won't be much of an issue rather weight and strength).
Step 2: Designing From Scratch. the Engine Mounts
Once the base is complete you will want something to hold up the rocket engines so they don't burn and deform the back of your board. Mine are simple struts with some aerodynamic shape but as before weight and strength are the biggest concerns so opt for a configuration that gives the best of both. The diameter of a D class engine is 12mm in radius (24 mm diameter) and 70mm long. Make the support spars long enough to get a sturdy connection with the mount and the base. You can use smaller engines if wanted for less weight (it won't change much because of the reduced power). Take the measurements of your engine and build another tube that is wider in diameter by at least 6 mm. This will be the engine mount. Design more for the number of engines wanted and attach onto the struts.
Step 3: Designing From Scratch. Printing and Applying to the Board
Print the rocket booster out at 100% size and 100% infill. If you made yours too large for the print bed don't scale it down but shave the edges off as to not shrink the engine mounts. Once printed you will want to make sure the board and the base of the booster are clean to ensure the best application of glue. Using an epoxy or plastic adhesive spread evenly over the base of the booster place it centred in the middle of the board behind the rear binding. Let the glue dry and cure for its recommended time. once dry you can take it out to test. Plug the igniters into place in the rocket engines (make sure they don't have ejection charges or else the attachment may shatter if done incorrectly) and hide the ignition controller in your jacket to prevent it from catching or getting caught around the engines. Make sure you only press the ignition key and button directly before you plan on boosting or else you may have a premature launch. Use general model rocket safety so as to not get hurt. Try the booster on flat surfaces and attempt to go up small slopes. I don't recommend it for going down hills because of it's high speed. Avoid the park when having the booster loaded and/or active.
Here's a video of someone who made their own (not 3d printed).
I'm planning on printing one off this week if possible and post pics of the finished version.