Router Table Hack




Introduction: Router Table Hack

Left school at 14 and took on a 6-year apprenticeship for radio and electronics, It was vacuum t...

This is not a true Instructable, but rather an idea that you can adapt to your needs.

I used to have a router table, but had to get rid of it due to space limitations. A few week ago, I really needed a router table and I don't know why I hadn't thought of doing this sooner, but I have fitted my router into my Radial Arm Saw table. I took photographs of what I did just to illustrate what can be done.

Step 1: The Gist of What I Did

First, I cut and drilled a template and support to suit my particular router out of 3/8" Plexiglass, then I routed a hole and template recess in my table to match the router and the Plexiglass template. Be sure that the template will fit perfectly flush with the table surface otherwise when using the router or the saw, your work-piece will catch on any uneven surface.

I then fit the Plexiglass template into the table. (be sure to drill pilot holes in the wooden table for the mounting screws).

The router was then mounted under the table and again check that all of the mounting screws are flush with the table top.

I also mounted a switched and circuit breaker power bar on the side of the saw frame so that any tools could be plugged in locally. This was not only useful, but also necessary for switching my router on/off. My router has a spring-loaded on/off switch and I have put a tie-wrap around it to keep it in the on position when using it in the table.

I use a small 'rare-earth' magnet to hold the router wrench onto the steel saw frame. When a guide is required, I clamp a wide piece of wood to the saw table. Using a narrow guide may distort when shaping a work-piece.



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    12 Discussions

    drilling holes in to the plexiglass may be easy but the recess is the key. how would you do that ?

    1 reply

    just use a router with a circle attachment to do it.

    Regards Poppy Ann.

    You can use a single flute countersink bit as I did or even a 3- flute bit although the latter may tend to clog. Do not use a multi-flute bit because it will clog and melt into the Plexiglas. See attached photo.

    An alternative is to use pan-head or truss-head screws and counter-bore the Plexiglas to the depth of the screw head using a bit slightly larger in diameter than the screw head.. However, you will need to clamp the Plexiglas on a drill press and use a depth stop. Not using a depth stop or trying to counter-bore with a hand drill is NOT recommended because the larger bit will almost certainly grab and either crack the plexi or bore right through.

    7 replies

    I use to work at a company that made pressure gauges and had to drill plexi glass quite a bit and we just use to just lubricate it with paraffin and that would stop it melting and sticking to the drill, you do not need a lot just a brush dipped in and held against the bit for a couple of seconds would be enough, one other thing is too use a drill stand and slowly feed the bit in.

    Regards Poppy Ann.

    Hi, nice instructable! I have a tip to drill plexi. I alwas use a multi-step-drill. I don't know what it's called in the US. It has several steps from 6 to 20 or 30 mm(i'm from the Netherlands so i use the metric system) in steps of 2 mm. Instead of a spiral to cut it has straigt cut grooves. It won't lift your plexi or pull the drilbit into the plexi. You get great holes without distroying the plexi, even close to the edges. I hope you know what i mean. Greetings from Joachim.

    Yes, I know exactly what you mean, but each step is not long enough to bore a through-hole of one diameter. I do agree however, that they are very good for thinner Plexiglas and I appreciate your feedback.

    I have experience with drilling plexi, and have learned the "feel" of the bit when drilling..

    Harbor Freight has some that have longer steps, approx. 3/8" on each step.

    We always called them a uni-bit when I worked in car audio. Is it these? I love mine.

    Be sure to pre-drill with a regular bit first though or you might break the uni-bit.

    Looks like an Instructable to me! :)