Rustic Herringbone Coffee Table




Introduction: Rustic Herringbone Coffee Table

Here is the small coffee table I made for our formal living room. My wife wanted something to go between our section and the fire place so here is what I threw together. I decided on a herringbone patter just because it was something I always wanted to try and never had the chance.

Almost all of the project was made from leftover, scrap, discarded or rejected items. I have about $20 tied up in the table, mostly from screws, paint (gallon was on sale for $5 since it was mixed wrong color) and stain.

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Step 1: Getting Started on the Table Frame

Here are the parts you will need for your frame

  1. (1) 4 x 4 post. ( I had some left over from another project)
  2. (3) 2 x 4 studs

I cut my 4 x 4 posts at 14" inches since this was the only even length I could get from my scrap lumber. I would recommend cutting them at 17 1 /2" if your buying new material.

I cut the 2 x 4 into (4) 18" lengths , (2) 38" lengths , and (2) 37" lengths

Step 2: Table Frame Assembly

I have a pocket hole jig I use when I make my projects. Its not required but it helps. If you have a Kreg Jig, make sure to set you jig and your drill bit at 1 1/2" setting when working with 2 x 4 lumber. Also, make sure to use a shop vac when you drill your pocket holes. This will extend the life of those expensive drill bits.

Step 3: Pocket Holes

Take all of the 2 x 4 material and put 2 pocket holes on each end using the A and C locations. Put holes on the side of the material you want hidden on the inside of the table.

Step 4: Starting the Assembly

First, you will need 2 1/2" pocket hole screw or cabinet screw.

I attached a 14" long 2 x 4 flush to the end and top od the 4 x 4 post and screwed them together. The attach the opposite end of the 2 x 4 to a second 4 x 4 post. I then attached a second 2 x 4 on top of the first to help keep the frame square.

Repeat these steps so that you have 2 sets.

Step 5: Assembly Continued

I attached the longer 37 inch 2 x 4's in the same manner as in the previous step but I did not double up the 2 x 4. I then set the half frame in the floor and finished the assembly.

Step 6: Making Your Center Board

Time to play with some glue. Take the (2) 38" board and apply glue to one then press the two together. I sued a couple clamps to hold this tighter while I ran a few screws in it to hold it together so I could still work with it while it dried.

Mark on a center line on each of the short ends of your table fame. I then used these lines to center the joint between my 2 x 4's to make sure I had a good center line to work off when I start applying the top. You will then screw the parts together with the pocket screws.

Step 7: The Fun Part (well the Part That Takes the Longest)

I used scrap 1 x 4 material I found out by a dumpster to make the top. I had to sand some of the boards to get them smooth. These parts where about 3/4" thick.

Getting this started took a little bit of patience. It helps a lot to have a 30-60-90 square. I used the square to make sure I had a true 45° for my first cut. I used the center line of the two underlying 2 x 4's to line up the top peak of the board. I then used the cut off scrap to make the triangle that matches up to it.

Once you get this lined up and centered, use a brad nail gun to attach to frame. No it gets easier. Take 2 separate scrap pieces and line them up so the longer piece is on the center line and the shorter side is flus to the end. I then just took a pencil and made a mark line under the under side where it hung over to create my cut line. Cut to fit and the attach with brad nails.

Step 8: Just Follow the Pattern Now.

Not its just repeating a pattern. Line up your boards the center and mark the underside where the material hangs off, Cut to fit and nail down.

Step 9: Capping Off the Ends

When I got to the end of my frame I had to make extra cuts to line up with the frame. Again, just use your pencil to mark a cut line the under side and cut to fit. You will need to use a hold down on some of these cuts since they are getting small.

Step 10: Admire You Work. Then Do Some More.

After I finished I looked over the assembly and realized I didn't like how the frame looked where it joined the legs. So I took what was left of the 1 x 4 material and wrapped it around the top and fastened it together from the outside. I did not fill the holes in because I kind of liked how it looked for some reason.

Next I painted the table a light farmhouse blue (because it was on sale at local hardware store because it was mixed wrong). I let the table dry for about 2 hours then used a dark glaze paint on it and rubbed it in with a wet rag. This created the aged look. ( I found from previous items I've done this way that if you put the glaze on while the paint is still slightly wet it creates the best look rather than applying it to dry paint)

Finally, I applied a dark stain to the legs to create a contrast in the color. I used Jacobean but you can use any color you prefer. I just enjoy the deep hue it creates.

Step 11: All Finished

Let everything dry overnight. I brought the table in and set it "exactly" where I was told to put it. My wife then she added a leather serving tray and a mason jar light fixture with tea lights just to "purty it up" some. She was very happy with it so I guess that means my scrap wood project was a success.

Thanks for looking at my intractable. I tried to use as much second hand or leftover material as I could just because you really can make some great treasures from someone else's trash.



Glue Challenge 2016

Runner Up in the
Glue Challenge 2016

Tables and Desks Contest 2016

Third Prize in the
Tables and Desks Contest 2016

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    4 Discussions


    3 years ago

    I love the style of this so much!


    Reply 3 years ago

    Thank You!


    3 years ago

    Nice job


    Reply 3 years ago

    Thank You