SKEKSI

Introduction: SKEKSI

This instructable was created in fulfillment of the project requirement of the Makecourse-Art at the University of South Florida (www.makecourse-art.com)

DESIGNING THE SKEKSI:

First I started out by finding reference pictures. I made sure that my reference pictures were clear and showed small details and pieces that I wanted to try to replicate in my piece.

After finding good reference pictures I decided that I needed to start to draw some sketches for what my project would look like. I first started with a basic sketch that showed a general shape and I labeled it with what parts I wanted it to have, and what I wanted it to do. Then I created a more detailed drawing so that I could solidify my ideas and visualize them. This helped for when I went to create them on Mudbox because I made myself multiple references that I could work from.

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Step 1: SKEKSI FUNCTIONALITY

CODING/CREATING THE INNERWORKINGS:

When I started to create the inner workings of my project I knew what I wanted to create from former projects, but didn't know exactly how to go about that. So I started by using reference sites for my coding and Arduino and breadboard set up, and then modified it. To start out I used a simple Arduino set up from instructables.com that demonstrated a proximity sensor being used to change from one LED being on, to it being off and the second LED being on.

Next I started to set up my breadboard and Arduino loosely set up like the reference I used. Instead of using only 2 LEDs I decided to use 4. I then had to go into the coding example I used from the Instructables site and add 2 more LEDs into the coding.

Next I created the online representation of the Arduino and breadboards set up (here is the site if you want to download what I used). By creating this part I gave myself a reference that I could go back to for my specific project rather than going back to my original reference since I ended up changing a few aspects of it.

Step 2: SKEKSI CODING

CODING:

Here is the code that I modified for my project:

#define trigPin 13
#define echoPin 12
#define led 10
#define led2 7
#define led3 2
#define led4 6

void setup() {
  Serial.begin (9600);
  pinMode(trigPin,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(echoPin,INPUT);
  pinMode(led,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(led2,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(led3,OUTPUT);
  pinMode(led4,OUTPUT);
}
void loop() {
  long duration, distance;
  digitalWrite(trigPin,LOW); // Added this line
  delayMicroseconds(2); // Added this line
  digitalWrite(trigPin,HIGH);
  delayMicroseconds(10); // Added this line
  digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);
  duration=pulseIn(echoPin,HIGH);
  distance=(duration/2)/29.1;
  
  if (distance<60){//This is where LED On/Off happens
    digitalWrite(led,HIGH);
    digitalWrite(led3,HIGH); // When the Red condition is met, the Green LED should turn off
 digitalWrite(led2,LOW);
 digitalWrite(led4,LOW);
   
}
  else {
    digitalWrite(led,LOW);
    digitalWrite(led2,HIGH);
    digitalWrite(led3,LOW);
    digitalWrite(led4,HIGH);
      Serial.println("Out of range");
  }
Serial.print(distance);
   Serial.println("cm");
  delay(100);
}

I first set up the trig and echo pins for my proximity sensor, next I set up all 4 LEDs

I next set up the inputs and outputs of those pins/LEDs

In the next chunk of code this is where I set up the trig pins and echo pins delay when they are HIGH and LOW, this also defines the duration and distance

This next part defines where the on/off exactly happens for each of the 4 LED, it also defines which should be HIGH and which should be LOW

This defines what it should be otherwise, and defines "out of range"

The last chunk defines the distance, and lastly the delay

Step 3: SKEKSI CONSTRUCTION

PUTTING THE SKEKSI TOGETHER:

Finally for my project I had the head down to the neck 3-D printed, which I painted with acrylic paints and put lightly painted plastic eyeballs covers over the eye holes. I first fed two LEDs into one eye and two into the other(Using female to female jumper cables for the LEDs and Proximity Sensor). I then created the rest of the egg shaped body out of cardboard. I first created a skeleton of cardboard to house my breadboard and Arduino in, then once it was all set inside the skeleton I continued to create the outer shell. I used long slightly wide pieces of thin cardboard and curved them over the skeleton I created and then hot glued them into place. After I created the outer shell for the back I then pulled my sensor out of the side of the project and put it directly under the Skeksi's head. I then covered the jumper cables with fabric as I decorated the outside of the project in tattered and cut cloth pieces. To finish I created the beak shield out of cardboard and painted it with a mix of grey and glitter paint to give it a shimmer like real metal would. After that I decorated the beak using various beads and small gems.

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    2 Discussions

    0
    audreyobscura
    audreyobscura

    2 months ago

    So cool! Do you have a link to the 3D printed file?

    0
    allityduffield
    allityduffield

    Reply 2 months ago

    I'm having a hard time linking my actual file to this instructable, but I did upload a picture of the model on the first step if that helps any!