Intro: SKULL STAND(S) FOR BUDDING ARTISTS
I recently took an online art class on charcoal portraiture. It was highly recommended to have a skull in the studio to learn the anatomy of the head/skull, and to be able to practice drawing said art piece. So I get the skull and found it was rather difficult to manage as far as posing it, changing views, rotating the skull and so forth. The solution: stands for the skull that allow all of the above movements safely and easily. I made one stand for the desk top, or art table...and one was made as a floor stand, to go by the easel for stand up work.
Step 1: Materials and Tools Used
I just scrounged around the shop and found what I would need: Pine pieces as shown, an old broom handle, a few screws and a 5/16in. piece of dowel. Basic shop tools are used, drill or drill press; table saw, forstner or spade bit, sander, etc.
Step 2: Desk Top Stand Was the First Made
Stand was made to hold the skull securely and to be oriented level and plumb.
Step 3: Designing the Stand
When I looked at the bottom of the skull, it was apparent that two braces, or 5/16in. dowels would bed needed. One lateral brace and one vertical or anterior/posterior brace. A base was made of two pieces of pine, and a hole was drilled to fit the main support, which is a recycled broom handle. Pictures show these placements.
Step 4: One Down, One to Go
With a little testing, placement of the dowels is defined, and all is put together to yield a helpful stand for the skull.
Step 5: I Needed a Floor Stand As Well
Having made the desk top stand, I wanted a floor model as well. The only difference in the two would be the base, and the length of the main support, or broom stick.
Step 6: Making the Floor Stand
First, a base is designed. I cut a round piece of plywood as shown, cut to the size of the flower pot that is used as a form for concrete. The bottom of the flower pot is cut out, and the pot is screwed to the base piece of plywood as shown. A wet mix of concrete is troweled into the opening of the pot, level with the top edge. After curing for a day or two, the stand can be painted, and I chose to use black paint.