My Samsung HE Clothes dryer stopped drying one day and the clothes were ice cold and wet after several minutes into the cycle. So I knew immediately the heating coil was more than likely open circuit (shot). I called the service hotline and they estimated the standard fee of $300 USD to repair. It seems like that is their standard fee for a service call no matter the issue.. I found the new complete heater box for $80 shipped to my door and saved over $200 USD for 1.5 hrs in labor.
You will need:
A multi-meter to measure resistance in Ohms
A little patience for saving yourself some big bucks for a quick fix when YOU need it, not when they can come!
There is a trouble shooting booklet on the back panel that mentions how to verify this with a multi-meter so reference that as there are also two thermal switches in the circuit that can cause similar behavior.
To verify the problem without massive disassembly first... take off the rear duct work tube and slide it out the back to gain this access to the bottom of the dryer (as shown in the photo below). The heating box is that silver metal box on the left with the (6) wires connected to it.
The very FRONT connectors (furthest from you) (2 wires) are for the heating coil. Reach in there and pull off the connectors (you might need a pliers) and connect your multi-meter leads to the stab connectors. Measure the leads continuity for being open circuit. If you measure open resistance, open the coil is shot. So pull off the other wires for the two switches more towards you (towards the rear of the dryer.) The box has to come out, but it comes out the FRONT. Believe me, it looks like it can come out the back but in no way is it possible from how long I tried !!! Very poor design!
You will be removing the front door to gain access to the heating box to be pulled out the front.
Remove the front door and put the screws in an envelope and label where they came from.
Remove the smaller screws from around the door. again keep them safe and note where they came from.
Remove screws from the top panel and lift off the top revealing the trim strip holding the control panel in place. Set aside the top panel.
remove the screws for the top trim piece that goes along the entire width of the dryer. Raise the control panel to the top and rest on the top of the dryer.
Remove the screws holding down the stainless steel trim strip across the front of the front panel.
Using a flat blade screwdriver, push the spring clips down in the slots located next to these screws.
Remove the top electrical connector as shown.
This will allow you to remove the entire front panel now.
Remove all the wires from the heater box, and push it forward out the dryer front. Test the connectors per the user guide that was found on the back panel of the dryer. You have the option of NOT replacing these switches if good. However, I always figure if I am here, replace it now. Just replacing the heater was a $54 charge so for a few dollars more I got a new box and complete switch system new again.
You have to remove some screws on the front of the heater box to slide it out. Once out, reverse all the steps to get back to a working dryer!