My husband hates shirts without a pocket. so over the years he has accumulated numerous shirts from different events that he's worn once maybe twice... so for my summer project I decided to learn how to insert a "Welt Style" pocket so these like new shirts can get some use. This may not be the "proper" way but it works for me.
(I have views of several shirts I picked the best pictures.)
All the fabric I have used were scrapes from other projects, these fabrics either complimented or were a contrasting fabric.
Fabric for the pocket (needs to be strong enough to hold up to everyday use)
Complimentary fabric for the welt
Paper to make patterns (graph paper would be good)
Sewing machine /threads etc..
Step 1: Some Finished Looks
These are examples of some that I have finished. I tried several ways to make them until I decided on the easiest for me to make and that would do the job of "holding glasses, pens etc..." so far these are doing 'the trick".
Step 2: Pocket Parts
My Pockets are in three parts.
2. Main pocket (I had several scrapes of a heavy weight but not too heavy fabric that I used for all the pockets)
3. Fabric to be seen inside the pocket (this is not necessary if the main pocket fabric is the same as the welt)
(Note: you may want to adjust the pocket, size but this size that has worked for me)
For the welt I made a three patterns on one sheet of paper (graph paper is the best) I measured out 9"X 7" divided this into three equal rectangles of 7" X 3" (see picture for complete measurements) After I made the first page of patterns I made several copies for future pockets. If you use graph paper just follow the lines measurements may very slightly.
The Main Pocket is 7" X 15" of fabric.
Optional: If your pocket is a different color from the welt you may want to have fabric the same color as the welt that will be seen on the inside of the pocket it measures about
7" X 41/2"
Step 3: Placement of Pocket
The placement of the pocket is about 9" below the shoulder seam (9" is the center of the pocket pattern). The first one I made was a little high so my husband and I determined the location best for him.
If there is a logo on the shirt it might end up slightly lower, but a pocket is better than no pocket..
This measurement (pocket placement) has for the most part been lined up with the bottom of the buttoned area. I just eye-ball the pocket.
Step 4: Sewing Time
I pin the pattern and fabric in the four corners to the shirt, I sew through on the pattern (the dotted lines) which is on either side of the center line. I did not turn the shirt to sew the second line because I did not want to risk moving the welt out of line, so I moved the shirt over and back to do the second line then sew. Works out well.
Step 5: Clip and Turn
After the welt is sewn down use sharp scissors to clip the center line up to the angled corners . (see pictures)
After cutting slit and triangles remove paper pattern carefully sew the stitching is not pulled out.
Sew the triangle points to welt to keep from having sides pop open. ( which I had problems with this one one shirt the cuts (shirt) wanted to unravel. (see last two pictures)
Step 6: Turning & Top Stitiching
Turn welt from the outside to the inside of the shirt.
Pleat the outer edges, this make the pocket opening look small and finished. (see picture) at this point you may want to whip stitch this (loose hand stitches) to keep it in place when you turn it over to top stitch.
Top stitches all around the four sides of the welt opening.
Step 7: The Pocket
If you need the extra fabric to hide pocket color sew it on now. Sew only the top and bottom not the sides they will be sewn when yo finish the pocket.
Step 8: Finishing
To begin the finishing touches, sew the top of welt to the top of pocket inside .(First picture is red to red, second picture gray to gray.
Then bring to other end of pocket to sew to the bottom of welt.
After the top and bottom are sewn then you'll sew the sides of the pockets
Sew from top to bottom of one side then the other and your pocket is done. (see pictures)
Then the pocket-less shirt is no more....