Box took about an hour to complete. Putting the instructable together took the rest of the day. My next try should be smooth sailing. lol
Step 1: Introduction
I have discovered that a simple but eloquent box can be made from any 10 x 24 inch board. So far I have made two from this 1 x 10 x 8 pine board board with enough left to make two more. The point I would like to make is that these boxes can be made with any 10 x 24 board with vritually no waste. The three boxes shown required gluing three 24 inch strips together making a width of 10 inches. The box in front was made from two 24 inch 2 x 6's. They had been outside for a long time and required some tweaking on the table saw to get to the good stuff. The red box was made from a discarded play set by the curb for big trash to pickup. I made two and gave him one. He was blown away! The last box is made from a maple table a friend gave me. Weighs a ton!
Step 2: Layout
Make sure the end of the board is square. Measure 24 inches for your cut line and cut. Cut three pieces at 4 inches each. Two pieces will be the sides and piece number three will be cut in half and be the ends.The two end pieces MUST be exactly the same width so the bottom and lid will fit exactly.
Step 3: Bottom of Box
Using one of the end pieces as a guide set you table saw to its width.This assures that the bottom will be the exact width. Put the two end pieces on the just cut bottom and draw a line. Cut this piece off and save it. It could become your handle if you choose.The box is starting to show some promise at this point.
Step 4: Drilling Holes
3/8 inch forestner bit used to drill the holes in the side pieces. They will be plugged later with oak plugs.
Step 5: Glue and Screw
Lay pieces out exactly as the will go together and apply glue on appropriate edges. I prefer to drill pilot holes for the fourteen 1 inch screws. 14 screws later you will have one strong box...(Obviously you coul use a brad nailer at this point and be done). Almost there.
Step 6: The Lid
Turn the box upside down on the remaing piece of wood , aligning the front and sides perfectly and draw a line on to show the excess to be cut off. After the lid is fit perfectly to the body it is dowel time. I do one side at a time...you'll see why. Put the lid on with the dowel in the one hole one the right side. This will help keep the lid aligned. Align all sides and drill the left side. I like the look of a routered top using the wavey edge bit. By putting the dowels in first you get a cool look after the edges are routered.
Step 7: Plug Time
I put a dab of glue of glue on each 3/8" Flat Head Oak Plug and give them a gentle tap. The front gets two 1/2 inch Oak Button Plugs. REASON...no matter how hard I try I can't quite get the left side dowel and right side to match so the lid will only align if placed in the order the holes were drilled. To keep from having to spin the lid just line up the two oak buttons. I just noticed that the button on the lid has just become a nose!? I REALLY like the knots as long as they don't create a structure problem...gives the box a real personality in my opinion.
Step 8: Handle
The handle you make is only restricted by your imagination. The piece that was left after sizing the bottom makes a great handle ...just cut each end at 20 degrees...add a 3/8 dowel to a 3/8 hole in the bottom...insert into a 3/8 hole which is cut in the middle of the lid. To assure a clean cut place a sacrificial board on the bottom of the lid. Make sure the size of the 20 degree handle is to your liking and tweak if necessary. I like finding the "just right" chunk of wood that I normally use in my smoker. Pictured is cherry wood . Make sure you sand the bottom flat so it will find flush on the lid.The fit is tight without glue so thehandle is easily removed if your brain is sparked by a better idea. The box is done except for sanding and finish. I'm partial to Danish Oil .
Step 9: Thank You
Thank you for your patience.