Introduction: Simple Spindle Sander
The reason behind this project is a circle, a perfect round piece of wood, on the outside and in the inside, and my dreams for the circles began when i bought a router and found out the circles i want to cut is too small for the included jig to handle . i know there are numerous ways but this sounded the most fun, and i love making tools and jigs.
I made a couple of designs that included the oscillating feature but was too difficult for me to make with the required accuracy so i designed this (the simple spindle sander)
Current design features : tilting table.
next designs should feature : oscillating , replaceable rubber drums and replaceable sleeves.
P.s: i was really busy at the time of making both the instructable and the tool, so you'll see some sloppy work here and there, i'll update it when i can, and the feedback is highly apprreciated:)
The sander is modeled in solidworks and the files are available if anyone wants,and the jigs will have their own instructables.
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Step 1: Preparing the Motor
This motor which had the previous occupation of pumping water, but the impeller gave out, and here replacing the pumps are easier than getting them repaired, so hey free motors for me.
The motor has to be prepared for it's new duties by removing the impeller and the impeller's housing.
-i got carried away and forgot to take pictures-
- the screws holding the housing cover are removed to reveal the impeller.
- impeller is removed by lubricating the key and the shaft with WD-40 tapping it on the back with a screwdriver and a small hammer, decide the impeller isn't worth the trouble and hit it with hammer !.
- housing is removed by attacking the three supports with a hack saw.
-sawing is easy when using whole body weight instead of just the hands- but as always i didn't do this because i chose a trolly to saw on !
- i put some grease before putting the rubber seal to ensure that the dust don't ruin the bearing.
Step 2: The Spindle
- To make the spindle 65mm hole saw was used -which was a really crappy one - on a 16mm particle board to mark the circles and were cut with a jig-saw.
- The center hole was enlarged to 11mm using a 10mm spade bit and a bit of sanding using a rotary tool.
- The belt width is about 90mm, which means 6 pieces x16mm of wood to obtain 96mm spindle .
- The pieces are sanded and glued to each other, a long screw and nut are used as a clamp.
- the spindle is roughly sanded on my new cheap pos overheating drill press .
- putting the ready spindle on the motor shaft required some hitting, and to make sure no bearing is hurt in the making of this project the motor fan is removed, so that when putting the motor on its shaft, the force from the hitting will not go on the bearing.
- i vertical cut was made to insert the sanding paper in, to prevent it from getting removed when sanding, and allow smoother sandin.
while using it the sand paper kept getting removed, so as my brother suggested, i used wood stickes from wooden tongue depressor to fix it in place.
Special thanks to Savvas Papasavva, the relief cut was his idea as far as i know
Step 3: The Box
The saw on my diy table was feeling a little worn out, so i had to use my jig saw.
which reminds me, heres a small review of this powerful Black and Decker kstr8 jigsaw, the motor is quite and amazingly powerful, with variable trigger which allows a soft start, the quick blade release is epic but has a little play, the shoe has a lot of play- which am planning to fix-, the straight cut knife is dumb and without it i've achieved better results - but am also planning to fix - handle is exceptionally comfortable. anyway moving on..
- clean cuts were achieved by using the jigsaw along with Bosch progressor blade and a long sanding block, test fitting confirmed the idiom "haste makes waste", i measured twice but had the measurement wrong in the first place.
- a hole the size of the motor fan were cut in the bottom, to allow the air to flow from the bottom, through the motor and out around the spindle, for motor and spindle cooling and dust blowing.
- tall rubber feet were installed to remove box wandering and allow for air to enter from the bottom.
- Holes for the bolts fixing the motors were drilled and rubber washers were used to reduce vibration, which made alot of difference.
test fitting the motor made me realize a could gain another 10mm from the spindle
- the motor was plugged in and the spindle is sanded 10mm at a time using a 20mm sanding block, with 50% overlapping. This made the spindle perpendicular to the table.
Step 4: The Table
It's made from a 16mm laminated particle board
- A hole was cut larger than the spindle size and routed to allow for a better air flow
- the table was cut to two parts, fixed and tilting.
i wanted the table to tilt from the highest point possible and thats why it was installed from the top.
- The hinges locations were marked, and a relief for the hinge's barrel were sanded, to minimize the distance between the two table parts
- the marked lines were cut using a dremel with a circular saw blade then chiseled using a ground (grinded) flat-head screwdriver.
after taking two years creating the first mortise for the hinge i had an idea to just drill random holes before using the chisel, this created a problem i realized after finishing, which is the depth of the mortises didn't match and could be fixed by using the drill press instead of the dremel for the holes.
Attaching the table to the box was somehow a PIA, two pieces of wood were glued to the table allowing the table to (slide) in the box
Step 5: The Table Lift
The table needed something to hold it at the desired angle.
- Using the drill press table's fence, the lift was drilled about 9000 times with a 3mm drill bit, a 5mm and a 6mm, and the remaining wood was cut using a jigsaw
- then the drill was fixed at 2mm depth and was treated as a mil (moving the workpiece back and forth) , and sanded afterwards
Step 6: Finishing
dumb me while very tired late at night thought using a router is ok, because it's not a dangerous tool when not on a table,,,,
dumb me set the depth too much and ate away the hole with the chamfer bit, i didn't have bodyfiller to fix it so i decided to try and fill it with wood.
- i mixed some mdf dust with water and glue
- a scrap piece was clamped behind the hole
- the hole was filled with the mix, and sanded after
at this point wood putty should be used to complete the fix but i didn't have any and was in a rush to finish the project
i had about 1 hour of free time and somehow me decided that was enough, to sand it, prime it and paint it !
Step 7: Outro
rushing this project didn't give me the satisfaction i'd hoped for
because the jigs for it wasn't even designed, but i could scratch another tool of my long list your feed back will help me better the upcoming instructables