The first photo shows how I've been storing my 10 inch table saw blades in my garage workshop. This has worked okay but I eventually had more blades than this rack could store. Also, I didn't use many of these blades very often because many are "special purpose", like for acrylics or melamine. So, I came up with this simple, more compact, method of storing my 10 inch blades using readily available small plastic containers. I also store a number of 7 1/4 inch circular saw blades and my dado set in these containers.
The second photo shows the plastic container box, with blades. This box has a removable lid with a carrying handle and is model:
Sterilite brand number "1876", "Show Offs", measuring 15 1/4 inches by 9 3/4 inches by 11 1/2 inches
The 9 3/4 specified height does accommodate 10 inch blades. I found this box online for various prices up to about $25, a little "pricey" I thought. I then found it online at "Big Lots" for $6.50 and bought several at the local store.
These boxes are normally used for hanging file folders and I know similar boxes are made by other manufactures. If you use another box, you should check dimensions, but, since all are usually designed to take hanging file folders, I expect that all would work. Of course, one could make a wooden box, but, I had other projects that I wanted to concentrate on.
The second photo shows a box with blades and dividers installed. The dividers prevent the individual blades from touching. I was able to get 10 blades in a single box but I wound up splitting the blades into several boxes to reduce weight. The box lid and handle supported the weight of 10 blades. But, I didn't want to risk box failure while carrying so I reduced the number of blades per box and was able to get all of my blades comfortably into 3 boxes.
This plastic box storage method is better than the "pile" of stacked blades I sometimes find on my bench.
Step 1: Dividers
In general, I didn't want the blades to touch each other. I violated this requirement when I stored several 7 1/4 blades on one divider to save space. They're cheap enough to replace if they get damaged. I also stored my entire dado set on one divider since the individual blades/spacers are designed to "overlap" IF you align them correctly.
To separate blades where desired, I made dividers. These could be cardboard, plywood, hardboard, or plastic. The first photo shows a divider made from thin Lauan plywood, 5.2 mm (0.2 inch) available from Lowes or Home Depot in small 2 X 4 panels for about $7.00. This plywood is far superior to any standard 1/4 inch plywood I've ever seen and I routinely use it in my shop.
The attached drawing shows the size of the dividers I used and locations for holes and the top clearance cuts. For the simplest divider option, that is, where the blade is NOT attached to a divider, it would only be necessary to make the top clearance cuts to clear the plastic lid.
I've chosen to attach the blade(s) to a divider as shown in the third and fourth photos. Two "finger grip" holes are provided to assist in removing a divider and blade from the box. The middle hole is, of course, used to fasten the blade to the divider. Forstner bits were used to make the three holes.
The blue threaded fasteners shown, a "nut" and a "screw", were made on my 3D printer. Of course, you could just use a metal nut and screw, perhaps sawing the screw shorter. In the next section, I've included both the Fusion 360 (design s/w) files and the 3D printing files. Use Fusion 360 to modify the design if you wish.
Step 2: Fusion 360 and 3D Printer Files
3D printer users know that results can vary from printer to printer, setting to setting, and filament type and brand You might want to make a few test prints before printing a large quantity. I found that while the M16 X 2 nut and screw thread printed very well, in general, I had to pitch some of the nuts because they simply would not thread on the screws.
Here's what I used:
Printer: Lulzbot TAZ 5
Filament: ABS, 110 C build plate temp, 240 deg C extruder temp
I chose the hexagonal shape only to provide a "finger grip" and not for wrenching.
Fusion 360 is a wonderful and powerful design program and free to hobbyists. Simplify3D is also an excellent program but not free. There are "free" slicers out there.
Step 3: Additional Notes
At first, I thought about "indexing" where each blade went and perhaps providing some information as to what a particular blade was best used for. But then, I decided not to. There aren't that many blades. Furthermore, I could group the most used blades together in one of the boxes. By NOT indexing, I didn't have to worry about replacing a removed blade in a certain position.