My goal for the project was to pay tribute to CNC and have a unique look for my sliding bathroom mirror. Right away I faced the challenge of attaching the mirror to the slide while not having it stand-off the wall any farther than it needs to be. The sliding mirror project is designed to use 3D printed brackets to enclose slide blocks. The printed brackets are designed to allow the blocks to be connected to the back of a wide mirror frame. In this example the mirror chosen had a wood frame that was an easy material to attach to the frame.
The CNC Rails and slide block used were standard SBR20 which I was able to find on Amazon. The design and installation example I show here are based around the choice to have my mirror from a single top rail and have it hang. I have included an example handle (3D Print) stand-off needed for the bottom of the mirror to allow the rail to slide smoothly. This design could also be used in a Double-Rail configuration (top and bottom) to give added stability and a unique CNC look. In both cases you will need to decide the length of the rails or distance you want the mirror to slide. I have several choices below.
Step 1: Materials
Material list - Note that each item has a link to support the single-rail or double-rail options.
Amazon Link: The mirror should have a wide frame similar to this one.
Amazon Link: Mirror Bracket Screws (specify 1/2")
Step 2: 3D Printing the Enclosure
You can get the set of stl files 3D printable Rail Block Enclosure for the enclosure. The details of my print setting are available on Thingiverse. Each 3D printer might differ slightly and I recommend printing one set and testing on your slide block. You can get the Fusion 360 design file HERE if you would like to make adjustments or simply use your own proffered modeling software to change the stl files.
Step 3: Assembly
The video shows how I initially mounded the bracket to the mirror and tested the slide. I started with a single screw in each of the two rail blocks. I then fed the rail through and made sure it slide freely. With the slide and rail connected I screwed in the remaining corners on the brackets with penny screws I made sure were not longer that the frame width to they did not come out the other side. You also need to position the brackets so no screw could hit the glass of the mirror. Something to consider... I ended up taking the entire assemble off and moving it after holding it up to the wall. I did this because I also should have considered the distance of travel at each end and the optimal locations of the rail connections to the wall given structure behind the wall I could screw into.
Step 4: Planning the Rail Mount to the Wall
The rail does not come with any holes so they need to be strategically planned. with the brackets attached to the mirror and the rails slid in you need assistance holding the entire assembly against the wall and marking the rails and wall for drilling. This exercise will also determine the types of fasteners you use. For my situation I targeted the studs with 2" wood screws. I also used a longer shank countersink that I could get past the edge of the round part of the rail. I ended up with three fasten locations. Two at the top ends and one in the middle at stud locations. I used long flat head screws and a countersink to make sure the screws do not interfere with the moment of the mirror.
Step 5: Standoff for Single Rail Option
If you choose to only use a top rail it's important to use a standoff to keep the mirror vertical. If the mirror is not vertical the slide will not move freely. You can download the 3D printable standoff from Thingiverse here. The installation of the standoff is best handled before the final mounting.