Introduction: Small Drawknife
I have always been fascinated by tiny woodworking tools so I have decided to create my own collection. I have started with a small drawknife using an old file and a broken hanger for the handles.
Although the result is perfectly valid for being used, my idea is to keep it as a part of a future wider collection.
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I would also apologize for my English as a non-native English speaker some terms are very difficult for me. Forward, Intractable!! I will be happy to answer any questions.
Step 1: Materials and Tools
- Old file
- Hanger wood
- Brass rod
- Drill press
- Bench Grinder
- Mini lathe proton fd150
- Angle Grinder
- Metal files
- Diamond Sharpening (grit 400-1000) and japanese waterstones
- Woodturning Tools (Proton)
- Sanding paper
Step 2: Annealing Steel and Shape
- Annealing is a process in which heat is used to soften metal to improve its malleability and make it easier to work.
Annealing the steel is something complicated since it is not easy that once tempered it will have the same properties as before. But as I wanted this tool to be part of a collection I took the risk with the aim of being able to work it more easily.
I heated red-hot and left to cool slowly. Once cold and with the help of a grinder I shaped it leaving a piece of 111mm x 12mm x 0,4mm
Step 3: Shaping
Pinto con un rotulador una de las caras y dibujo la silueta del drawknife, hago unos agujeros que me ayudan a delimitar la zona de los cortes con la grinder.
Al haber anneal el steel puedo limar con facilidad los cortes con limas de mano dejando una superficie lisa.
I painted one of the faces with a marker and drew the silhouette of the drawknife. I drilled the file which helps me to delimit the area of the cuts with the grinder.
Having annealed the steel I can easily file the cuts with hand files leaving a smooth surface.
Step 4: Angle 25º
Once the bevel angle is set (25º), start the grinder spinning and draw the blade along the wheel. I suggest starting at one end and pulling it the full length. Use light pressure – let the wheel do the cutting – and an even, moderately fast blade slide. To achieve a good planimetry I use diamond sharpener (grit 400-1000).
Step 5: Shape of the Handle
I heat the ends red-hot and give it the desired shape with the help of a tool that I manufactured.
Step 6: Tempering and Quenching
The tempered I put it to the alive red also until it loses the polarity, that I check with a magnet and I maintain it a minute more inside the forge, cooling it with oil.
I have one hour annealing at 200 degrees, 10 minutes for each millimeter of thickness.
Step 7: Handle
Taking advantage of a broken wooden hanger and using my Proton fd150 mini lathe, I make two "equal" handles. To make the ferrule I use a rod brass that I also work with my lathe.
On this occasion for the final finishing of the wood I use a technique I had never used before that consists of applying several layers of cyanoacrylate with a cloth and sand it with several grits (400, 800, 1000). The finishing is a maximum shine and it guarantees an optimum wood sealing!!
Step 8: Final Conclusion
I'm very happy with the result! The edge obtained is very good and this encouraged me to continue making more mini tools for my collection!
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