'Smart Speaker Stage' Sound Reactive Party Lamp

About: Hi I'm Michael! I love all things Science, Engineering, & 3D Printing. If you've enjoyed my work then I've love to hear from you!

The 'Smart Speaker Stage' is a Sound Reactive Lamp! It automatically makes amazing light patterns in the presence of sound. It is designed to be a fun accessory for your Amazon Alexa or Google Home Smart speaker, but it works with ANY speaker, smart or otherwise.

I have found that smart speakers are great for parties because they let me delegate the responsibility of being DJ to a computer. This light up speaker stage is great for adding a visual element to go along with the music! Here are the features:

-Has 10 sound reactive modes/patterns.

-Has 10 non-sound reactive modes + static colors so you can use it as a regular accent lamp too.

-Uses a wireless RF controller.

-Visible during the day & has brightness adjustments, but it is especially awesome at night!

-EXACT DIMENSIONS = 4" x 4" x 4.5" Tall. Also uses a 120VAC Plug and 3ft power cord.

-Choose between two different exterior body patterns: Helix or Studded

>If you don't have a 3D printer, I do offer this item for sale on my Etsy store here.<

VIDEO DEMOS:

Video #2- Demo in a dark room.

There is also a 3rd video demo of both units going at once linked here: https://www.instagram.com/p/BurgdYpBVG0/

Step 1: 3D Printing Files, Settings & Vitamins

Materials:

  • Natural/Clear PLA Plastic 3D Printing Filament for the 'TOP' shell: https://amzn.to/2Hhmbyu
  • Black PLA Plastic for the 'BOTTOM' base: (Could be any color though) https://amzn.to/2LHkYop
  • Black TPU 3D Printing Filament for the 4x feet: https://amzn.to/2HknxJ
  • Hot Glue for assembly
  • Squishy packing material like bubbles or a paper wad for internal filler.

3D Print Settings: (Files attached)

  • Any material, No supports needed (Parts must be oriented as shown in the images)
  • 0.4mm dia nozzle max
  • 0.2mm layer thickness maximum
  • Minimum 3 perimeters all sides top & bottom
  • 10% infill minimum- GYROID Pattern highly recommended to diffuse the light coming through the top.
  • Expect nearly 15 hours to print total.

Vitamins:

  • 2x Screws: https://www.mcmaster.com/90380A115
  • 1X SP106E Conroller with 6ft long 5050 SMD WS2811 LED Strip & 12VDC Power Supply with 5.5mmx2.2mm DC jack (The Power supply IS included for the one liked here, although it seems the options from other sources just have a jack with bare wire ends): https://amzn.to/2HjVnhe

Post Processing: N/A!

Step 2: Assemble LED Controlled Into Base & Wrap LEDS

The 3D Printed base is designed to fit the LED controller box, but you have to use hot glue to hold it in place. Orient it so the power cable hole will be accessible from the exterior.

Route the LEDS through the slot in the bottom and tear off the LED adhesive backer so you can attach to the base by wrapping in a tight spiral around it. You can also wrap clear packing tape around this to guarantee the adhesive wont pop off over time.

Use the notches in the top of the base to route the end of the LED strip wires back inside the base. You can secure them with glue or with the bubble wrapping to prevent them from jiggling around.

Step 3: Drop Lid Onto Base, and Screw on Feet. Done!!

You may want to wrap the LEDS differently than I showed as all mine are outardly facing. If your strip ends up bring long or you want some light to come from the top then use some bubble packing to jam inside the tube as filler, then place the last few LEDS on top so they point straight upward.

After that you can drop the top into place. It will be held on via the 4 screws that also attach the rubber feet.

Notice that the rubber feet are sized so that the device is tall enough for the controller to slide underneath for storage.

Step 4: Play & Enjoy

The controls are a bit un-intuitive so that is a drawback but it does work really well for this this simple job and the controller is RF instead of IR so you can use it even though the control box is buried inside the 3d printed parts without direct line of sight.

In music mode you cannot vary the brightness, but you can change which patterns shown up in reaction to music or any sound. It does react to your voice if you are close.

in Non-music mode you can cycle through patterns including static single colors and change the brightness.

The 'Lock" Button does nothing as best I can tell.

Well that's it, now you are ready to party on! If you build this device please take a second to leave an "I made this" picture tag, and also please remember to vote for this instructable in the Instructables "Party Challenge!"

Thank you and enjoy!

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    2 Discussions

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    Penolopy Bulnick

    4 weeks ago

    This looks really neat! What program did you use to design the 3D printed parts?

    1 reply