Introduction: Soapbox

A childhood dream

Step 1: Floor Plan and Sections

It took a few days to finally determine the size of the soapbox. Also, the proposed technology within the vehicle let my brain cells work properly. However, accurate planning is essential in this case because the size of the driver is crucial to the size of the soap box. My grandchildren are 3 and 6 years old and even the big one should be able to drive for a few more years.
After a lot of research on the internet, I opted for a soapbox measuring 220 x 80 cm (L x W) and mostly kept to a plan by Festol.

Step 2: Base Plate Above and Below

I made the two base plates from 20 mm thick multiplex plates. By
accident, I found 4 plates of this thickness in the dimensions of 220 x 20 cm in the leftover box from the wood cutting of a hardware store for the insane price of 12 euros. If you consider that the normal price for 1 square meter is about 60.00 euros, I have been able to save about 100.00 euros here.

The plates were glued together by me with wooden dowels and wood glue to 2 plates of 220 x 40 cm and already I had exactly the dimensions for the two base plates

Step 3: The Base Plates Are Cut Into Shape

The front and
the rear of the car should be slightly tapered in the bow, the bow should be longer at the front, than at the rear. To make these bows on both sides the same, I used a small but effective tool. I took an easily bendable hardboard, drilled at each end of a hole of 8 mm in size and joined these holes with the help of two screws with wire. Now, if the wire is stretched, the hardboard receives the respective desired bow. In this way, I was sure to have the same bow on the right and left. Now transfer only the respective sheet on the plates and Saw the base plates with the jigsaw

Step 4: Saw the Cockpit Entry Into the Top Plate

The entry for the driver should according to the plan have the minimum size of 550 mm and the maximum size of 650 mm. I chose the size of 650mm length x 350mm width. This neckline was made with the jigsaw. It
should be noted that at least 25 mm remains on the sides of the base plate in order to still be able to install the strips for the framework reasonably

Step 5: The Actual Framework Arises

The connection of the top
plate to the bottom plate was made by means of 20 x 40 mm thick strips, which were cut to a length of 450 mm. The top and bottom plates were stacked and about every 30 cm was an incision of the plates for attachment of the strips.

Step 6: The Chassis and the Steering and Break

The attachment of the respective axes was made according to the blueprint. The rear axle was fastened 20 cm from the rear with so-called pipe clamps. For this purpose, strips of 30 mm thickness and 60 mm width were first screwed onto the base plate. Then there was the attachment of the clamps.
The attachment of the front axle was a bit more labor intensive, because it should be remembered that the axle should be easy to steer in order to steer it later with the help of steel cables and pulleys from the driver's seat.

Steering should be done with a steering wheel that was sawed out using the jigsaw and connected to a round rod (25 mm diameter) about 50 cm long. (see photo). Subsequently, the rod (handlebar) was screwed with pipe clamps from below to the top plate.

6 mm holes were drilled in the axle through which the steel cable was pulled. Over a total of 4 pulleys (2 on the lower plate and 2 on the upper flap), this rope was wound twice opposite the handlebar. Tighten the rope slightly and fasten with rope tensioners and you have already made a steering with steering wheel. For a better view please also look at the photos.

This point actually caused me the most headache and my thoughts were new every day. I decided then for a brake, which I have not found on the Internet.
I attached a 2 metal bar above the provided rear wheels by means of a strong rubber band (tensioner) and 2 hooks on the top plate. Through this band, the rod is pulled upwards. Then I screwed 2 clamps about 3 cm from the side wall to this pole and attached a steel cable to it. The steel cable was guided into the footwell of the driver via a pulley at the bottom of the base plate and fastened here to the lower end of a brake lever. By pulling the brake lever, the steel cable stretches, the rod is pressed down on the rear wheels and thus brakes the vehicle. After releasing the brake lever, the strong rubber band pulls the brake rod back up and releases it from the rear tires. (see hand sketch)

The handbrake was made of a metal bar. Then I attach a round wooden door handle. By means of a threaded rod, the "brake lever" between two boards was attached, which were screwed with metal angles on the base plate. At the lower part of the brake lever, I drilled a hole through which the steel cable was pushed and fastened.

Step 7: Adjustable Seat and the Steering Wheel

The driver's seat was made from multiplex panels. The width of the seat is 30 cm and the depth about 35 cm. The backrest was screwed to the seat using a metal bracket. This attachment has the advantage that the backrest appears as sprung and is not rigidly connected to the seat.
The steering wheel is taken from the formula 1. It was sawn from the remains of a multiplex board, rounded off with the router and then screwed onto the handlebar.

The attachment of the seat in the passenger compartment was carried out with the help of mounting material from the solar energy. 2 adjustable angles were screwed from below to the seat and run in a metal scraper. By loosening and tightening an M 8 (8 mm nut), the seat can be pushed back and forth in the rail. It can be adapted to the height of the driver. In addition, the seat is adjustable in height by the two adjustable angle.

Step 8: Paneling Passenger Compartment, Making the Cockpit and Roll Bar

In the passenger compartment, only the curve behind the driver's seat was covered with 4 mm thick plywood. For
this purpose, 2 x 3 cm thick wooden strips were screwed between the top and bottom plate and screwed the plywood plate to it.

The cockpit I made from the remains of a cardboard roll with 20 cm diameter. This cardboard roll was glued to the top plate with the help of small wooden triangles.

The roll bar was made from an old spade handle, which was mitred and glued together. The side parts protrude through two circular holes in the interior and were screwed to the rear wall behind the driver's seat. The roll bar is only for decoration of the vehicle.

Step 9: Finish and Coloring

Now that all the work was done in the interior, it went to the disguise of the soap box. The side walls are made of 6 mm thick plywood panels which were screwed to the struts of the scaffold. The strength of these plates allowed just such a smooth bending at the rear and on the front of the soap box. Next time, I would probably use 4 mm thick plywood.
At the front of the vehicle, a so-called battering ram was added. For this I glued together two 8 x 8 squared timbers and then adjusted the edges to the curve of the front. With 140 Spax this part was screwed to the bodywork. This part serves to protect the very light built bodywork.

The screws were sunk and then filled. After drying was sanded and sanded again.

Subsequently, a total of 3 coats, the first coat was a primer. The paint was painted in silver, with the silver arrow of the Mercedes served as a model.



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    2 Discussions

    I think putting skis on this and going down some snowy hills would be amazing. I cant really work with wood but I would build a snow car sled boat soap box if i could. Nice project!

    is there like a scan code on that boat car