Spamtastic alarm clock that looks like a timeless can of spam.It would make an awesome addition to your bedroom, Kitchen, Laboratory or desk.
It can wake up,Alert you when dinners ready, Tell you when your centrifuge is done or when its home time.
The electrics needed severe modifications to fit in the can. it can be run on a 9v battery or there's a jack on the front to allow the use of a dc mains adapter 9-12v
Its fully functional in the dark. in a submarine, at high altitude or velocity.
The case is made from 99.5% recycled materials.
The outer case is dishwasher friendly, this clock is however unfortunate not microwave safe.
Please do not hold me accountable for any sudden weight gain after using this clock.

SPAM is a registered trademark of Hormel foods corporation, and is an Acronym of specially processed animal meat yum.there is an official spam clock ,i could only find it on ebay , i prefer mine because it works in the dark.

Step 1: Stuff You Will Need

materials
clock kit,(note the review, i found it power hungry too)so i had to add the capacitor after completion risky.
really thin wire ,solid,insulated . 0.5mm
9v battery and connector.
push buttons , push to make x3
switch
green led
jack socket for power (optional.)
thin piece of plastic or polycarbonate 2x4inches, a video case will work.
craft foam or a cheap mouse mat.
tools
hot glue gun (essential)
iron and solder
wire cutters
step drill ,drill and small drill bit 3mm
tin snips ,side cutters and files, (to shape the plastic)
sharp knife
Polaroid pogo printer.and Bluetooth device.you could use a regular printer and sticky back paper, i like its plastic finish.
photo program *, scanner or camera*,(either a cracked old version or free trial)
*i have included the image (2 jpegs in a zip file) so you can skip straight to the polaroid pogo printer

Step 2: Tick Tock

i assembled this bit some time ago. you could place the components that stay on the board, and put the rest on wires . its upto you. read ahead to orientate yourself of wheres this is going.
(removing the display once attached was tricky.)

Step 3: Following the Traces

everything outside of the white lines is going. so you need to attach things that were outside to somewhere inside with a wire soldered a blob along the trace. one of the traces goes outside the lines and back into again, this need a link or jumper wire. (note , use wire shown in step 6)

if your not so confident of your soldering skills you could use a bigger can, and not cut the board, then you could either try cutting holes in the can or relocating using the intended solder pads.

parts to relocate
power input
3 buttons and their (pull down to earth )resistors
the led (replace with green)
the alarm on off switch
the sounder
the display
half of each of the 8 resistors
the positive trace that feeds the buttons and xtal timer.

remember your wire prep, cut strip and tin, you dont want to over heat the board.

Step 4: Attaching Wires

note that i started then thought id better use thinner wire because space will get limited quickly. next step shows the new wire.

Step 5: Super Thin Wire.

this stuff you have to scrape the insulation off with a blade. this painted on insulation does not melt so easily when soldering unlike the plasticy stuff.

Step 6: Different Led

the led with the kit is red (shows alarm is set to go off), i wanted green to match the display, so i found one on a board in my junk box.
i don't remember my DVD time traveling .

Step 7: All the Wires

onec everything connected , give it some power to see it all works ok. if its good then you can put some hot glue over your solder work to keep it robust and unable to short out on its self.
remember to add the 9v battery connector
to stop hot glue from dripping places you don't want it to.spray it with butane*.

*(its been brought to my attention)
i should point out that butane is i highly flammable and toxic for people to breath.

ps..if you've a flame soldering iron on the go, dont try it ,please ,you will be on fire.

Step 8: Geting the Image Ready for the False Lid.

so before we open the can, i scanned the lid, (adjusted with photoshop to keep it actual size when i print it see images)
put the image(s) on memory card, that went into my phone , the files were then bluetoothed to the polaroid printer.
i have included the images i blue toothed to the printer (zip file )

spam can lid distorted for pogo.zip
Download

Step 9: Cut a Piece of Plastic

i firstly used tin snips to get the shape approximate then a file to get a close to the can shape. it sits just inside the first lip of the can.it took some time to get it right.
the can lid image was then stuck to the plastic,
the hole for the display is only just big enougth to get it through at an angle, i drilled 3 holes and trimmed the bits out with side cutters.once in hot glue keeps it secure,
the 3 push buttons,switch,and power socket are fitted.
theres a small hole for the sounder, and led these are both held in place with hot glue.
try not to apply too much heat to the plastic behind the sticker ,(its thermal print ,changes colour when hot)

Step 10: Squashing the Wires Into Shape.

if anything loks like its going to bend of hit something metal hot glue it, spraying lighter butane on hot glue makes it stiffen quickly, try not to apply too much heat to the plastic behind the sticker ,(its thermal print ,changes colour when hot)

Step 11: Eat the Spam

open as per the instructions.carefully the lid can be sharp, luckily my can was smooth.i was expecting to have to file it to remove razor edges.
and eat (its glutin free so must be good for you)
or wuss out and wrap contents in tinfoil and leave in fridge.

they have spam eating competitions

Step 12: Snug As a Bug

i added craft foam around the edge ,(hot glue). to make it fit snugly in the can, also to protect the wires, and an additional bit in the can to stop the battery rattling.