I have had a breakthrough! I have managed to contain fire and ice in canisters for prolonged periods. As a Steam Sapper I have put this to good use by inventing the Steam Thrower. The steam thrower combines the fire and the ice from the 2 canisters and makes steam, quite logical but not as simple as it sounds. The thrower nozzle is a piece of fine machining that took a lot of tuning but finally I got the balance right. Now all I have to do is get those burns treated.
As you can understand I can't give the method away, it's now a royal secret, so I won´t publish details plans for the method here, but I´ll give you a feel for it, and if you are clever enough you´ll get some steam up too.
Step 1: Ingredients
Apart from fire and ice, you'll need:
- 2 suitable canisters (I bought 2 for 3 euros at the Rotterdam market, someone told me they are old hot water bottles! they have brass caps, which is a plus);
- an old paint burner (solid brass);
- an old bronzy canister (probably also an old hot water bottle);
- the 'cage' part of a flower pot holder (also brass);
- some odd bits of leather;
- some bits of water pipe (I used 12 mm) and connectors, plus flux and solder, and some fire :-);
- some plastic conduit, bronze paint, the core of some electrical wire (brass);
- small brass bolts and nuts;
- a soda can, some glue, screws, and all sorts of things that are probably in the garage anyway;
But of course you can deviate from this completely, because in the end the only thing that matters is that you have fun making something out of others' trash, and that it throws steam of course!
Step 2: Nozzle Assembly
Connecting the nozzle tube to the burner was difficult. After much deliberation I removed the original burner nozzle (removing the screw) then cut of the head then ground it so that a cylindrical piece remained. I then drilled a hole of the correct size in the tube and inserted the burner head.
But now how to fix it in place.
In the end I cut a rough cylinder of wood as large as the inside of the tube, drilled a hole in that also as large as the burner head, then assembled it. With much luck I inserted a screw into the wood that locked the head in the wood. There was a small hole on the head that I was aiming for but I missed that, but it seems to have locked the tube quite well onto the burner!
I also used some hot glue, but apart from the fact that it wasn't hot enough I'm not sure it actually helped.
When the steam is expelled out of the nozzle it gets exceedingly hot, so I made a heat guard from the flower pot holder, this way I don't burn my hands or other extremities when par-boiling baddies.
I used brass bolts and nuts with locking washers to fit the guard to the nozzle.
Step 3: Canisters and Tubing
The canisters of fire and ice need to be carried near the nozzle. I made a sling of bits of leather that I had lying around (well, cut off the leather jacket I bought to make my goggles).
I then screwed a plasterboard wall plug (slightly modified) into the body of the canister and fitted the pipe fitting over this. It fitted well, but it worked loose after about 30 minutes of walking around. I need to find a more secure fixture.
I polished the caps and added a bit of isofumitronic balancing by coiling a bit of brass wire and inserting in the holes in the caps. This lets off excess steam if the imbalance would otherwise become dangerous.
I then added tin can logos, so that I ensure that I always fill the correct canister with the correct element. Thanks to Mangetout, see www.instructables.com/id/Drink-Can-Tinwork/.
When all connected it looks quite mean. See the first photo of this instructable, and my other instructable for the complete outfit.