Stomp Pad_20 Minute Build Time_Snowboard Accessory

Introduction: Stomp Pad_20 Minute Build Time_Snowboard Accessory

About: Doing DIY and helping people is what I love to do.

This is a plastic pad that provides the minimum(plus) traction you will need for snowboarding that will also allow you to slide your foot off, without moving your foot high off the pad, like you would with stud pads. This cost less than $6 to make, which is half the price of pads online. this project is easy and requires no power tools except a scroll saw in place of your hand saw.

When available, you could refer to one of my other projects on a DIY studded snow pad with a price range of $4.

Tools Needed:

RAZOR BLADE or SCROLL SAW

SCISSORS

SMALL HAND SAW for metal

PAINT PEN

METAL RULER

FLAME LIGHTER or MATCHES

Supplies:

PAINT TRAY FOR PAINT ROLLER (must have at least 1/16 thick plastic with stout ridges on the high flat part where the paint roller grips and rolls) (you may be able to find these trays at some thrift stores)

MIRROR MOUNTING TAPE (holds between 4lb. to 10lb.)

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Step 1: Cutting SAFELY.

Please don't do what I did before, which was "freestyle razor cutting plastic without a metal ruler." Approach this project with the proper safety.

First step is to cut the upper part of the tray out with your handsaw. That is in the area where there is a missing piece in the photo below. Place the tray upside down to traction and saw away, but Make sure your cut out piece is big enough to allow you to refine your outline for the final shape you have picked out.

Once you have that, lay the tread part down on your work surface and trace the reverse outline you would like on the piece. paint pens or colored markers would be best. Let the pen ink dry on the surface before doing your final cuts.

Step 2: The Last Bit of Cutting

Now you have the option of cutting over and over again with a razor blade and a metal ruler, which is not hard to do unless you have curves in your design. Do not cut your line less than four times with the razor, it is best to score it several times. Using the razor method is what I did without using the saw, but it was dumb not using a ruler, and cutting the big piece out first

You can use a scroll saw which gives you clean and precise cuts, but a soldering iron will work if you don't mind cleaning melted edges.

Step 3: Sticky Tape.

You now have a good outline for you pad, it's time to stick it on your board if you don't want it painted. The bottom surface side of the plastic piece should be wiped clean for better adhesion for the double sided tape. The whole area should be covered in this tape with no overlapping over the peices. Try keeping the gaps between each piece closed, as this will limit the amount of water getting trapped in there. Leaving the baking on and extending over the cut edge of the plastic is a good option.

After you cut the excess off, you can flame kiss the edge of the adhesive to slightly harden it and you can take a long piece of tape and stick it on one edge the adhesive backing, and peel it all off at once to expose the sticky side that goes on the spot of your board.

Stick it on your clean spot and push down every spot to adhere it well. Once it's on, it stays on.

That's it. Please tell us what available materials did you use that worked in the comments below.

If you want a different sticky adhesive you could try super glue, but the reason I went with a thin foam pad is so that if it gets pulled up on, it expands up and holds tight before it peels off like clear double sided Scotch tape. This mirror tape is very strong by the way so I'm not worried about having it peel off on its own.

Step 4: Final Notes

If you were to remove this, pry up (not with your fingers but a metal tool instead) and steadily slice away the foam till you have more leverage to pull it off by hand. Then use plenty of goo-gone and a plastic putty knife to remove what's left.

I would have painted the edges with a paint brush after I flame kissed the edge of the foam tape, but I had only black spray paint on hand. when I tried to remove the paint on the surface with paint thinner, It became this satin texture instead of the shiny finish I had before. It's going to get scuffed up anyway.

You'll also notice I have a curved up edge to hook my boot. I used the corner edge of the paint tray and it works great. this whole thing is not going to come off very easily because I tried pulling very hard on that lip, and it won't come up.

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