This version of SuperKicks are not meant to replace your rail protection covers on your onewheel. They are durable and quickly detachable and won't move or fall off when riding but are intended for night visibility and just plain showing off on night rides and holidays. You can install them and remove them quickly without tools too.

Supplies

4- ws2815 144/meter pixels strips

https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-Upgraded-Indiv...

Battery pouch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GYZ5BJW/ref=p...

12v battery

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=p...

Clear epoxy resin

https://www.amazon.com/Clear-Casting-Coating-Epoxy...

1.26" x 1/16" Grade N52 Neodymium Disc Magnet 10Pc

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M62G2LJ/ref=p...

3M Scotch 4905 VHB Tape: 1 in. x 15 ft. (Clear)

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Scotch-4905-VHB-Tape/dp/...

Pixel controller- lots of options can work for this one, the is the one that I used. I got it on Ebay from China

SP301E-M Programmable controller

SnoLabs polycarbonate+ filament to 3D print everything- this stuff prints great

https://snolabs.com/pc/

0.030" clear polycarbonate strip or sheet - google to find

Soldering iron and flux and solder

Misc wiring 4 colors of it, heat shrink tubing, wire loom cover of your choice, 4 pin connectors and some other bits that I'm probably forgetting.

Step 1: 3D Printing Files

These are the files I made and the ones I used to print. You'll need a larger bed to print these but you may be able to place them diagonally on a smaller bed.

Print them all at 100% fill

I used SnoLabs polycarbonate filament , stuff prints great and is very strong yet flexible. I used Carbonfiber PC+ for the kicks and transparent PC+ for the trays.

https://snolabs.com/pc/

Quantity to print:

2- tray 1

2- tray 2

1- front charger

1- front switch

2- rear kicks

1-fender bar if using it

Step 2: Test the Pixels First

A 12v power supply helps here but the battery will work too.

Pay attention to polarity and crossed wires when hooking everything up, pixels have no reverse polarity protection and you generally don't get a second chance if you make a mistake if you cross the power wires. Just follow positive and negative and you'll be fine. Clock and data lines just get matched to the same controller wires, nothing bad happens is you mix those wire up.

Hook up all 4 pixels strings and connect them to the controller and power and run them for a day or so to burn them in and check for failures.

Amazon is great for this since if you do get a bad string ,not common, they will just let you return it

check youtube for T1000S pixel controller instruction videos if you are new to this controller, the software works pretty much exactly the same as the one used for this controller.

Step 3: Cut and Solder

Use a single edge razor blade or exacto to cut the pixel strip. Don't use scissors unless they are tiny or big wire cutters, you may damage pixels that way.

You can lightly score a line and then just go over it a few times to split them apart

The top row has 93 pixels, middle row has 89 and bottom has 87 pixels.

The top and middle strings can be whole pieces but you'll have to solder the bottom one together from the leftover of top and middle.

Watch soldering videos on youtube and use liquid flux if you're not super confident soldering. use your scrap pieces to practice the bottom splice before you ruin stuff.

Put them on a big flat surface and lay all of the strips out and use removable tape on the face to hold them together and in place when soldering.

When you're done hook them all back up and test them again.

Step 4: Epoxy Time

Take the sets of tray 1 and 2 and lay them out on a flat and LEVEL table. If you don't check level in all directions then you may be in for a really bad day with the epoxy.

If this is your first few times pouring runny epoxy then don't try to do both of the side at one time. Trust me on this one, if if god bad it will generally go really bad at this step if you try to rush it.

Fit tray 1 and 2 together, may need to sand or trim depending on how good your printer is, and then use just a little bit of 5 minute epoxy the glue the middle seam of the trays. Putting clear tape on the back is a good way to keep the epoxy from gluing them to your table. I also put a trash bag down and taped to the table to protect it too.

Then pair up the magnets so they stick together in pairs. If you mixed them they won't stick to the rails they will be repelled. Fit them to the trays, may need to trim or sand holes, and then use a tiny bit of 5 minute epoxy around the circle joint of the magnet or use some super glue in the joint. Let it dry or cure.

Dry fit the strips in the trays and then remove tape backing and stick them down in the trays, the end where the wires exit will need a small bit filed or cut away for the heat shrink tubing encased wires to exit. After it all fits well on the exit wire put tape around the joint so epoxy doesn't leak out after the pour. Remove tape you put on top to hold them together.

Mix the epoxy per directions, do a trial if you haven't done this before, you only get one shot when doing the pour so don't rush yourself. It's easy to do but easy to mess up. A mini torch and toothpicks are great for popping bubbles too, youtube again if you need more info.

Always mix more than you'll need too, I used about 3/4 of a dixie cup total per side.

LEVEL TABLE and then pour until it's a full as you'd like, pour a little and wait when getting close. Easy to add a little but a huge pain and messy to remove.

Step 5: Rail Covers

Fit the magnets to the printed or cnc'd rail covers , make sure that your magnet polarity is still correct so they stick together and don't repel and then apply the VHB tape to the back of the whole thing and then some more super glue or epoxy in the magnet joint. Let dry and then stick to your rails