I wanted to add some personality to an otherwise basic suit. I designed this with as few seams as possible with no elastic and no hem. This flirty number has a yoga style drop waist and circle skirt.
Step 1: What You Will Need
Rotary cutter and mat
Ruler preferably grid style
Ball needle variety pack
Kraft paper or patterning paper
Step 2: Drafting the Pattern
Measure your waist at the point you plan on wearing the skirt
I measured a few inches down from my natural waist to compliment my suit (measurement A) Measure down how long you want the drop waist to be. For my proportions 6" (measurement B) was perfect. Measure around your hips at this lower point (measurement C) Measure how long you want the circle skirt section to be. (Measurement D) My length was 6"
Step 3: Time for Paper
For the drop waist section draw a rectangle the length of the waist measurement (A) by the drop (B) plus 1" .
Step 4: Second Part of Drafting
For the circle skirt
Take the hip measurement (C) and divide by 3.14 or Pi. This will give you the size of the inner circle. I am not a fan of drawing circles so I hunted for something the same size to save some time.
I went from the half instead or drawing the whole circle. This will then go on the fold when I cut it out. For the outer circle; measure out the length of the lower skirt section (D) plus 1/2". Mark and measure every few inches Connect the marks. Cut away the inner circle and cut out the outer circle.
Step 5: Cutting Out the Pattern
Cut the drop waist section out with the longest dimension on the cross grain
None of these edges show so if its not perfect don't worry scissors are fine.
For the circle fold a section of the fabric in half and place pattern piece on the fold. I strongly suggest a rotary cutter as you cut out the circle. The outer circle edge is your finished edge. The fabric will not fray.
Step 6: Sewing
Pin the drop waist section in half and match short ends together and pin.
Sew with a 1/2 " seam allowance.
Step 7: Tips for Sewing Stretch
Use the appropriate Ball needle ( I needed a #9) .
Lessen the presser foot pressure if your machine has this feature.
You can also use a walking foot attachment or sew with tissue paper under the fabric and tear away after sewing. You may need to lengthen your stitch depending on how it is feeding.
Test on some scrap.
Sewing with quality thread is very important . Without it you will skip stitches. Hold the fabric taught as you sew will improve the look of the seam and the strength of the seam.
Step 8: Waist Band
Take the tube you have created and fold in half with wrong sides together to match raw edges. It should look like a waist band now.
Mark it in quarters with pins
Step 9: Mark the Circle
Mark circle skirt section in quarters on the inside circle with pins.
Step 10: Make Them Match
With right sides together match the marks and pin together the 2 pieces.
Pin as often as necessary between marks. When matching the the pieces together you will need to stretch the drop waist section.
Step 11: Sew Them Together
Sew with a 1/2" seam allowance.